Michael D.Heath-Caldwell M.Arch.

 The map that was used to chart our drive around Australia in 1970 

Diary of Joe PalmeR 1970

Friday 20th March 1970

Today, Jeff Beach, Gunther Schmidt and I left my home at Kahibah to drive around Australia for six weeks holiday. We are driving in Jeff’s ’66 model Holden, and now heading south to drive via Sydney, Melbourne, Adelaide, Perth, Darwin, Brisbane, and then back to Newcastle. Although it is raining, the temperature is 70 degrees F. The speedo reads 40,067 miles.We have just left Sydney after arriving at Roselands shopping centre at 1pm, and having a beaut meal of Hawaiian sliced pork, strawberries and ice cream.

After touring Roselands, we left at 2.30pm – next stop Wollongong to see my sister Rosalind McLeod and husband Bruce.Well now it’s 8.30pm, and the 3 of us are relaxing on our camp stretchers in the tent. We are about 30 miles north of Goulburn and there is a freezing wind blowing outside. Our first camp tea wasn’t as good as lunch at Roselands, we had hot instant potato with cold tuna first, instant coffee and chicken noodle soup. At least it filled us up ok. One thing we didn’t expect to happen is the fact of the extra weight on the roof rack causing the car to sway uncontrollably when we hit an undulating or rough section of road – we may have to store some of the heavier things in the boot. Our primus works just fine, and the Tilley pressure lamp is giving out more than enough to write these few words down. After a good night’s rest I’ll feel that the trip has really got underway. I hope we make Melbourne in good time tomorrow.

Saturday 21st March 1970

I am now writing in a luxurious motel about 7 miles from the city of Melbourne. This is not the sort of night we had anticipated, but then again the day was not without surprises.At 8.15 this morning we left our Goulburn camp in fine sunny weather. However this soon changed into rainy periods, and by the time we reached Melbourne the rain was falling very heavily with strong winds, and in some places the highway was awash with quite deep water. There were a lot of cars broken down and several minor accidents where cars had obviously lost control on the slippery surface.

We were only too glad to find this motel which by the way has its own kitchen, separate bedroom, and electric blankets on the beds. At the moment we have the TV and the heater going full blast. It is still very cold, wet and bleak outside, and after this luxury, I don’t see how we’ll get used to the austere tent life. At one stage today we ran out of petrol and had to use our emergency supply out of the jerry can. In future we’ll have to watch our petrol consumption more closely.

I have tried to ring family friend Dr Ridley but her name isn’t listed either if Melbourne or Phillip Island directories.We were travelling at 80 mph today when I nearly lost control of the car when it started swaying violently again. We slowed down ok, and a bloke who was behind us overtook and stopped us saying that he thought the car was about to flip over, and advised us to slow down. We helped him push start his Falcon, and after walking about 500 yards back to our car, solidly took his advice. In the morning we are definitely going to store the heavy jerry cans in the boot to see if this reduces the swaying. After this we hope to be able to get a look at TV Channel 0 (ATV0). And now for a guaranteed good night’s rest after a hot shower.

Sunday 22nd March 1970

As I make this entry we are exactly 1,000 miles from home. The time is 11pm ES Time but 10.30 Central S Time – yes we are in South Australia, to be more specific, a caravan park at Mt Gambier.Our Melbourne motel turned out to be the best I have ever stayed in, and was well worth the expense to be out of the weather ($16 for the 3 of us). We found Channel 0 (ATV0) without any trouble and were shown right over the place. They were about to start rehearsals for a show starring the “New Seekers” who we saw being made-up in the dressing rooms. I guess I was overawed by the size of the place, but really impressed by the design and thought that had obviously been gone into before the building was erected. They have a lot of good equipment but more importantly are using it to its fullest.



 Left to Right; Joe, Gunther, Jeff – stopping for a drink in Victoria.

We had a very smooth drive through the rest of Victoria today, and I was impressed with the straight and well-sealed roads. The countryside was quite flat for about 150 miles until we reached the coast, when it changed to gently rolling hills. From the border to Mt Gambier we passed through huge pine forests stretching as far as the eye could see. Our caravan park is right between two of the famous crater lakes on the shoulders of which Mt. Gambier is built. The water appeared a beautiful blue even though it was 6pm when we arrived, so we should get some nice colour shots tomorrow. At the moment there is a strong breeze blowing through the many tall pines around our tent, so the sound of this should give me a pleasant night’s rest.

                                            Mt Gambia caravan park     

Monday 23rd March 1970

Tuesday 24th March 1970

I missed out on writing anything yesterday, so here goes a combined entry.At the moment we have just left Adelaide and travelling along the Eyre highway. We got away from Mt Gambier ok yesterday morning after taking a few shots of the lakes and picking up a few provisions. I drove to about 20 miles from Adelaide where Jeff took over. The countryside was extremely flat and drab, the road bordering dirty lagoons and dried out sand flats most of the way.

     Jeff (top) and Gunther take advantage of the sand flats in South Australia

After being turned away from one caravan park that would only take caravans, we found one at Fort Glanville. After we set up the tent, we went down to the local “Glanville Hotel”, and suitably quenched out thirst for a few hours, rounding off the evening with a talk to the locals and a game of darts. We left about 10pm and drove around in circles until we eventually found the camping area and struggled into bed.The next day (today) we took ourselves on a guided tour of the city of Adelaide, taking shots of the streets and parks.  We plan a short run today, at this stage a stop overnight at Port Augusta at the head of Spencer Gulf, just 200 miles away.

Wednesday 25th March 1970

We’ve just left Port Augusta and on our way to Ceduna, just under 300 miles away. Gunther is driving to Kimba, where I should take over the wheel for the next 200 miles to Ceduna. So far the road is very smooth and straight, and at the moment I guess I can see about 5 miles ahead where the road goes over a slight incline. It’s a very hazy day today, and apart from the road ahead, all there is to see is red earth covered in stunted undergrowth, and a few scattered excuses for trees. I guess this is the sort of landform we are going to have to get used to.

On our right, the Flinders Ranges can be just seen through the haze, mauve in colour except for patches of purple, where self-made shadows fall on barren slopes.Now on the left a clutter of buildings in front of a huge slag heap – this must be Iron Knob.Just before Snowtown yesterday we changed our first tyre, the trouble being a faulty tube which was repaired by the friendliest service station owner I have ever struck.  Full of jokes, he offered a smoke and a talk when he’d done the job - In the meantime we drank milkshakes. This turned out to be the last of their milk, and just before we left I noticed his wife roar out in their car for fresh supplies.

           The almost daily ritual of setting up and dismantling the tent.

 In Port Augusta we set up the tent in a new and very impressive caravan park, and took off for the drive-in. They had on two really low budget shows, so I had a restful sleep during the second film – a western with John Wayne and Kirk Douglas. When we returned to the camp it was surrounded by about a dozen rabbits which Jeff madly chased with torch and stick.

“The end of somewhere, the beginning of no-where”. This could only begin to describe the feeling of suddenly being thrust into the start of the unsealed Nullarbor at Ceduna. After travelling along a beautifully sealed highway, we are now bouncing and sliding along a rough and dusty surface. We have all the cracks and boot sealed with masking tape, and the windows shut tight. Already the stink of bulldust pollutes the cabin, and the sun is beating through the front windscreen, soon it will be glaring straight in our eyes. We’ll see how long we can drive before making camp.

The Nullarbor 

It’s dark now, and I’ll just make these few lines before turning in. We are about 100 miles from Ceduna on the Nullarbor Plain. Although the ground is a mixture of fine sand and bulldust, we are camped in a group of stunted gum trees beside the road. We filled up on petrol a few miles back down the road (it was 51 cents a gallon). The road itself isn’t too bad so far, especially where the grader has been recently. It’s impossible to keep out the bulldust which after 100 miles has covered everything including my legs. As we are still pretty civilized, I am going to wash them before getting in my sleeping bag. The flies were all over us when we stopped, so after putting up with them for a while, I coated myself with Aerogard which dispersed them quick and lively. 

Joe gets some target practice

To fill in the time before dark, we had a bit of target practice, shooting up a couple of beer cans down the road. Darkness came on so we drank hot soup, and watched a fiery orange sun sink below the distant horizon.

Thursday 26th March 1970

We have just driven off on bitumen from the WA border after 320 miles on dirt road. Although we broke off the front driving light, the rest of the distance was trouble free, except for the dust and bumps. We have been very lucky with the weather so far – it has been fine and comparatively cool for this time of year.  Only at one stage the temperature in the cabin reached 96 F. Now it’s 3.30pm EST and the temperature has dropped to 80F.

  The WA state Border, and start of the bitumen

We called in at the Yalata mission, bought some aboriginal artefacts, and bought petrol at what must be the loneliest homestead on the Nullarbor at Koonalda. Petrol there was worth 58 cents per gallon. We are now about to have a refreshing drink at Eucla pub that might wash down some of the dust.We have made camp now at Madura, almost 110 miles further on from Eucla, and it looks like another cool, windy night.

The road from Eucla was a dream after the 320 miles of dust and bumps – it was almost a straight road over the distance, so we made it in real quick time. As for the countryside round this part of the world, I have no desire to ever live on it. Everything is a dry as a bone – the last fresh water in a creek or dam I saw would have been 1,000 miles back.

Friday 27th March 1970

We are now camped at Esperance, and it’s great to have green grass underfoot, instead of dusty, red earth, and to smell the invigorating ocean air.

We had a smooth 420 mile trip on good road of which I drove 250 miles. The road in general was absolutely straight, which made the trip very tiring. In addition the road was bordered for the most part by thick but stunted gums.

Just before turning out the light last night, we discovered an intruder in our tent – a scorpion. Needless to say he was quickly squashed, and needed quite a bit of bashing to kill in the soft ground. When we found him, he was about a foot from my head. Only today we realised that things could have been serious if one of us had been bitten – it would have taken about 8 hours to reach the nearest doctor.

One unnerving thing about the Nullarbor that I forgot to mention before was the number of tyres and tubes that littered the side of the dirt road section (320 miles). There were often groups of two tyres, where the unfortunate owner had bottomed his vehicle over a rough section. The people who are camped beside us here at Esperance at the moment blew two tyres on the Nullarbor, so we must have lucky considering the weight we are carrying. 

\

One other point of interest is that on the maps of the Nullarbor section, you can see quite a few places marked on the plain. In actual fact these turned out to be usually a solitary homestead with a service station out front, and a so called motel to the side. These were from 100 to 200 miles apart, which made it necessary to stop at each one to fill up and pay their exorbitant prices. Consequently, the next town after Ceduna, turned out to be Norseman, a distance of 763 miles.

About 100 miles before Esperance we noticed a white dried up lake. After walking down onto it, we found the hard surface cracking under our feet. A quick dab of the crystalline substance on the tongue proved what we thought – it was salt. 

Salt lake in Western Australia

We’ve just had our showers, the first clean up in 1,250 miles, so now we realise how much we needed it. Now for a good night’s rest and Albany tomorrow we hope.

Saturday 28th March 1970

Sunday 29th March 1970

We are now travelling along a smooth highway about 50 miles from Perth – we should be there in about an hour. I can’t wait to see Perth after all I’ve hear about it. So far I’m very impressed with WA. The southern part is really beautiful, but seems to rely a lot on holiday makers. The temperature is about 80F, typical of the perfect holiday weather we are experiencing. Surprisingly though, what I saw of South Australia didn’t impress me at all – it seemed very dry and lifeless.

We’ve just travelled through the Jarrah and Karri forests – huge trees on hilly country, separated by clear streams – unlike I expected. Yesterday we covered an interesting 300 miles between Esperance and Albany, scenic tourist centres. Unfortunately they had caught no whales at Albany, so we missed seeing the whaling station. 

Joe enjoys Esperance - WA

Esperance had the most beautiful blue water and clean white sand. When we tried the water at Esperance caravan park it seemed salty, but we guessed that everybody else was using it, so we did too. Next morning we asked our neighbours about it, and they said it was bore water and not to touch it. They directed us to a tank on the other side of the park. So far we’ve suffered no ill effects from the water. Another bloke at the park gave us fresh fish he’d caught, which was tasty after the canned junk we’ve been digesting. Albany seems to be full of Pommies – white unhealthy looking ones. It must be their favourite holiday resort. Not long now until we hit Perth, so I guess there’ll be much more to write later.

Monday 30th March 1970

Tuesday 31st March 1970

We’re just leaving Perth, and on our way to Geraldton, after a day and two nights in Perth. Perth is a clean, progressive city, with trees and parks everywhere. They are obviously planning a lot for the future, and they need to as WA opens up with the mining boom.  They seem to have a great deal of pride in their city, and appear aloof to the rest of Australia. I noticed a newspaper billboard which read “WA woman murdered in EAST” – not murdered in Qld, NSW, Vic, or SA, but murdered in the East, as if the rest of Australia was another country. After travelling across the desert between east and west, it surely is easy to see why they feel so isolated. Apparently many West Australians prefer to holiday in Singapore than Sydney – it’s closer and cheaper.

While in Perth we looked over Channels 7 and 9, and spent last night with Bill Bowen (ex NBN Channel 3) and wife Stephanie – a very pleasant evening. The night before last we walked around the city. We ate a delicious meal in the “Pioneer Steakhouse”. London Court, an alley way fashioned after a quaint London street was fascinating. 

                              Fish ‘n chips by the Swan River at Perth

Wednesday 1st April 1970

We are now camped on the edge of the dry Minilya River, being plagued by grasshoppers. Today was the hottest we’ve had, the temperature reaching 100F toward the late afternoon. It has dropped now to 85F, even though the sun has been down for over an hour. A hot wind is whistling around the flapping tent, and Jeff is pouring out tonight’s tea – hot soup. We don’t feel too hungry after today’s drive of about 400 miles.

Not much to write about Geraldton, where we stayed last night in one of their caravan parks. I did my first lot of washing there since I left home. The strain of living together so closely after nearly 2 weeks is rearing its ugly head. I must say though, we realised before we left, the consequences of not being able to get out of each other’s hair for six weeks, so I hope we can be sensible about this, and not spoil our once in a lifetime holiday. Since leaving Perth we have all been a little on edge, but this could be a phase that I hope we will pass through. Tomorrow we pass through the Tropic of Capricorn.

View in the Cave

Thursday 2nd April 1970

Today has been the most arduous so far, with 300 miles of rough corrugated dirt road and century temperatures. Soon after leaving our dry river bank this morning, the temperature reached 104F and stayed over a hundred the entire day. After a sweaty bumpy trip, with bitumen for only 100 miles, we turned into Dampier, 11 miles off the main road. 

Dampier is the loading port for the Mt Tom Price iron ore deposits, 190 miles inland. We didn’t have much trouble locating Joy and David Pullar at a house in the middle of town. I must say that I was amazed to find them living in such luxury, after imagining what the Dampier mission would be like. They live like the rest of Dampier’s citizens in air-conditioned brick and cyclone proof modern houses.

After tea and savouries, David took us in his fully equipped (for outback motoring) car on a tour of the township and works. He knew all there was to know about past and future developments in the town. We stopped next to a huge pile of rocks, and he demonstrated the iron ore by picking up a small rock and throwing it at a bigger one. The rock on impact clanged like a huge metallic bell. Apparently, single men attracted by the money, do not stick it out as well as married men.

Being sensible as well as single, I can understand this as there seems nothing outside of work to keep an interest in, apart from the pub and a small open-air picture theatre. However, this could change. David told us of the thousands of homes that would be built in satellite towns in the future. Dampier overall is a fascinating town, run exclusively by Hammersley Iron Pty Ltd, who have built not only all the buildings in the town, but subsidise the schools and run all the amenities like water, sewerage, electricity and air-conditioning. Houses which cost 30-40 thousand dollars, rent at $6 per week, are maintained and painted regularly. A labourer gets around $80 per week, and it’s possible to take on two jobs at once, doubling your wage. Apparently, the idea is to make as much as possible, and get back to civilization.

We left Dampier just on dusk and took a wrong road, hitting a large rock and bending the exhaust pipe so that it rattles continuously. While stopped and trying to work out where we were, we noticed a car approaching rapidly. It turned out to be a fairly young bloke looked pretty tired, but showed us the way back to Roebourne. After a little talk, he sped off into the blackness of the opposite direction.

It’s a hot night here at Roebourne, but we’ve managed to quench our thirst with a bottle of Swan lager. We’ve washed off all the red dust and sweat. After repairs to the exhaust pipe, we hope to make it to Port Hedland tomorrow. David warned us to buy at least another jerry can because of the large stretches without petrol beyond Port Hedland. Everyone around Dampier drives their car at breakneck speed – I guess it’s because they want to get over this lifeless country as soon as possible. They all seem to drive late model Holden’s fitted with roo bars, windscreen protectors, diff and petrol tank guards. David was not impressed when we told him we had none of those items. I guess it’s only that we have been driving at a reasonable speed that has kept us out of trouble.

Friday 3rd April 1970

I don’t really know how I am going to be able to express what I feel right now. We are camped in the so called Port Hedland Caravan Park. Our trip from Roebourne was reasonable except for the century temperatures. On arriving here we were confronted with a chock a block full caravan park in the middle of the desert, with the ocean across sand half a mile away.

I am writing this siting on a rusty 44 gallon drum on the edge of the caravan park. No picture could ever describe the feeling of being here among the myriad of cluttered and broken down looking vans. Most have their wheels off, and are either buried in the sand or perched on blocks. Those lucky enough to have air-conditioning have the unit jammed against an appropriate hole somewhere in the van. Windows are covered in wood or aluminium sheeting sealed with masking tape.

The ground is littered with everything from garbage cans to broken kiddies toys. There is even a converted double decker bus in the middle of it all. I don’t know how it will ever be driven again. Most of the vans here will probably rot where they stand. Walking along the so-called streets, kiddies look half stunned in the heat playing together. Waste water runs out into the streets.

I can’t see many women, but those I have seen have been young. I wonder how my sister Prim would go living in these conditions. When we arrived, the caretaker said that when he took over the business 6 weeks ago, the area was more of a slum than a caravan park, with people fighting amongst each other because of the cramped living conditions. Even though the vans here are so close together, just about everybody has made some attempt at building a fence round their van – it all seems so ridiculous.

As I sit here in century temperatures, I can’t help but admire people who can punish their bodies and minds to the limit of endurance, because surely, Port Hedland is living proof of endurance.We have just been for a swim after the half mile walk to the ocean, and an historic event for me, my first swim in the Indian Ocean. The water was more hot than warm, and was really cooler out of the water with this slight breeze blowing. We had to lie down to get wet, the water was shallow and there were no waves.

Before long a bloke came up and warned us to leave the water. He explained that no-one swims there because of the stone fish, sea wasps, and sharks. Apparently two men died there last year. We left the water, and had a talk with this bloke on the way back to the caravan park. He is a Swiss fitter and turner up here for a year with Mt Newman mining. Hi wants to save $6,000 in one year, and has stuck it out so far for four months. He told us that the average stay in Port Hedland was six weeks. I now can fully understand why, and this being April, is far from being the hottest time of the year. The town of Port Hedland is about two miles down the coast. This would be a terrible place to live.

Saturday 4th April 1970 (written 6th April)

   Port Hedland to Broome - filling the tank with the last jerry can of fuel 

The 400 odd miles of dirt road to Broome was completed on Saturday. It was a good road, which was a change except for the temperature which didn’t change, and reached 103F. We arrived at Broome just after dusk, and after setting up the tent in a pretty caravan park, Gunther and I strolled down to the water’s edge, and rested our tired hot bodies in the cool sand.

Sunday 5th April 1970 (written 6th April)

After looking at the Japanese cemetery, and Broome’s pearling luggers, we set off for an uneventful trip to Fitzroy Crossing. We spent an interesting evening at the “Crossing Inn”, talking to an accountant off one of the local properties. He works at a sheep station where there are three whites and thirty aboriginals working. He reckoned that the full bloods were good workers, but the mixed bloods were not. I’d say he was between 50 to 60 years old, and had been on the station for 18 years. He seemed to like the life very much, and had a great belief in the future of the Kimberley’s. We had a good meal later with him at the pub. I had a crumbed steak followed with a delicious trifle. 

After all this I felt slightly heady and very tired, so when we found a place to camp just down the road, I pulled out my stretcher and sleeping bag, and suggested to Jeff and Gunther that they do the same. It was a warm tropical night, and at the time it seemed pointless in setting up the tent. In any case this caused an argument between me and Gunther with Jeff who were both determined to set up the tent as I was determined not to. It ended with me sleeping under the stars, while Gunther and Jeff slept in the tent, reminding me that I would not be sleeping in the tent again.

As I looked up from my stretcher, it seemed as if I was completely covered in every direction by the deepening red of the sunset and ever increasing appearance of the stars. I alone was the one to witness it.  All was quiet until I heard the car start. It approached me from behind my head, headlights picking me out in the dark. It crept up to where I could see the front wheels, and the engine was being revved to screaming point virtually above my head. I stayed there on my stretcher and eventually the car backed off, and all was silent again. I was left to gaze at a sky filled from horizon to horizon with diamond stars. If there ever is a reader of this diary, they should know that the car incident was only a bad dream. Companions don’t behave that way.

Monday 6th April 1970

This morning we set off in a cool frame of mind for Halls Creek, although we are making good time over a rough surface. We might try to reach Wyndham at this stage. I am find things difficult at this moment because of a definite personality clash between the three of us. I can’t help feeling that it would be easier if we all were completely different or completely similar. Throughout the whole trip I have observed Jeff and Gunther taking a greater interest in similar things, and finding myself out of the picture. This is something I didn’t expect, and is obviously a problem that occurs when three or more get together.

Tuesday 7th April 1970

Since my last entry, we have been getting on much better, and making good progress over some rough roads. In my last entry I said that we hoped to make Wyndham. As it turned out, we decided that Kununurra would be out best bet, and made the town on the Ord river scheme about 7pm. We had therefore been travelling over 12 hours on rough road, so we gladly had a few beers at the pub (conveniently situated next to the caravan park), and dropped off to sleep after welcome showers.

On our way to Kununurra, we passed through Halls Creek, the scene of the first gold discoveries in WA. Like many of these old towns, this was a pathetic sight in the middle of the dry north. After travelling so long without real civilization, I thought of the hardy pioneers who had courage enough to live in these lonely places, and exist under what must have been far worse conditions than anyone today could believe possible.At Halls Creek we had a small bottle of beer each which cost 40 cents. We then found a general store to get something to eat. On entering we found ourselves in a fairly lofty room cluttered with everything from hardware to cheap clothing to food. Behind the counter, stood an old man and woman. We walked toward some shelves where a few assorted tins stood collecting dust. The old man shuffled towards us. “We want some biscuits” said Jeff. The man smiled and answered “We’ve got everything except biscuits, we’re still waiting for them to come through. We are about out of everything” he added. He wasn’t kidding either as we found it difficult to find anything suitable for our lunch.

After buying a packet of chips and some lollies, we asked him if he knew what the road was like between Halls Creek and Wyndham (a distance of 235 miles). “Downhill all the way” he smiled. At this stage his wife entered the conversation from the other side of the room. “I reckon he’s travelled over that road a million times by now”. 

We bought two packed of weevil filled biscuits further down the street in an almost empty shop, and set off for Wyndham after driving round an ominous “Road Closed” sign just outside the town. We found out later that the sign was erected to cover the roads department in the event of any mishap due to road conditions.

The creek beds were our main problem over this section, where we had to remove rocks to allow the heavily loaded Holden to pass through. These creek beds were naturally enough completely dry. We have been told by the locals that the wet season finished early this year, so we are lucky. Over this section I often thought of the smiling old man, and how he must know every tree and rock in the 235 miles. These people must feel very isolated during the wet season. Even in the dry, they get bread once a week from Wyndham, and have forgotten what fresh milk is like, according to the smiling old man. 



  Changing drivers as we enter the Northern Territory

Today we passed through the Northern Territory border, and rugged rocky outcrops which, as we approached them, changed in colour from a mauve purple to a deep rich red. They towered around us most of the way to Katherine where we have camped in a caravan park. The road was bad for 100 miles, where it consisted of one continuous detour beside the road, which was being prepared for sealing. The temperature today made it to 98F. This was some small relief after temperatures in the century for the past week. I felt it most at Broome, with the high humidity. I feel we have accomplished the most arduous part of the trip, and the Holden sure has been good to us.

Wednesday 8th April 1970

It was very dusty at Katherine, so I was glad to move on this morning to Darwin. On our way we stopped off at the Adelaide River memorial, which honours those lost in WW2 without trace in this area, and also civilians of Darwin, including the staff of Darwin Post Office, who stayed on duty during the Japanese raid. I counted roughly 70 civilian memorials. There were hundreds of military memorial stones in the adjacent section.

When we arrived in Darwin, we gave the car a grease and oil change only to discover that we had broken a spring on the way. After driving carefully around Darwin for another spring, we found that there were none available, so we located a wrecking yard and found a spring to fit. We drove back to the garage, and the owner kindly lent us the jacks and tools. We began screwing and unscrewing, and two and a half hours later, we had the other spring fitted, saving us about $20, money that we badly need, as we find it disappearing rapidly. Food and petrol has been more expensive than we reckoned on so far, and we’ve started economy measures.

It’s about 90F tonight, and the humidity is high. We’ve been drinking so much today I don’t feel like much to eat, so it’s a little rice and peaches and then bed. Tomorrow we’ll have a good look at Darwin.

Thursday 9th April 1970

 I am now writing from a flat in Darwin, where we have been invited to spend the night with friends of Jeff. Jeff worked with this chap in Brisbane ABC TV, Penn, who is Ceylonese, his wife Ruth and their two sparkling kiddies John and Melanie.

We have been participating in Darwin’s favourite sport, drinking, since we arrived late this afternoon. We have enjoyed a truly sumptuous Ceylonese meal into the bargain, consisting of curried meat, fried rice, tasty cabbage, chilli coconut and sliced tomato.

After our meals of the last three weeks, this was really something.I called into the Department of Agriculture this afternoon and saw Brian Ford for about half an hour. He certainly looks well but was very quiet. We spoke about job prospects and school days. He seems anxious to leave Darwin and the government after two years, explaining the amount of red tape and office work involved in the job. I sympathise with him after my experience working for the Commonwealth Government. He explained that Darwin was the size of Maitland but with sizeable differences. For a start, the climate itself, the easy going atmosphere, and the number of clubs and pubs available. The social life is good, and there are plenty of parties. I guess the mere fact of isolation, coupled with the absence of TV, forces people to get out and socialise. 

I re-joined Gunther and Jeff. We had a walk around Darwin’s shopping centre and through their main store, Big W. After this we spent a relaxing hour in the Botanical Gardens, and went for a walk along one of Darwin’s waveless beaches.As usual, the high humidity is getting to me.

Penn explained that the two months before the wet season are known as the suicide months, October and November. The humidity becomes so unbearable that a number of people commit suicide regularly each year. The humidity is certainly bad enough at the moment, as it is late at night and my body is wet with perspiration. Ruth told us of food like fresh fruit decomposing after a few days. Many fruits and vegetables are unobtainable. Milk is mainly powdered and things don’t even keep in the frig. Garbage collections are twice a week and at the moment there are water restrictions as it has been a long dry season.

Darwin seems to be a poor man’s Canberra, with everything government owned. Buildings seem to have been constructed as cheaply as possible, yet they are functional for these conditions. For example, fibro and metal pipe construction, which don’t need painting and don’t rot. It is not a beautiful city, especially in the suburbs, where there is little evidence of gardens and beautification. This seems to be yet another place where people come for the money and not much else.

Friday 10th April 1970

We’re now in a camping area at Larrimah, between Katherine and Newcastle Waters. The bush flies have been annoying, but now the sun is down and they’re gone. It’s also a little cooler. The sky has clouded over and looks like rain, but since it’s the dry season, I don’t think there’ll be any.

We haven’t seen rain since Melbourne, and that seems along way back now.I drove from Darwin to Katherine, and that was tiring because of the winding road, but it has straightened out again now.

We certainly were made welcome at Penn and Ruth’s place last night, and left this morning after a filling breakfast of scrambled eggs filled with bacon and onion. About 100 miles south of Darwin, we turned off the main road and walked beside a trickling stream to a pretty waterfall. The atmosphere was almost like rainforest, so it was a pleasant change for us. I was wishing I’d carried my swimmers, as there was a clear deep pool under the falls, but as there were two girls in the vicinity, I declined to go in nude.


Saturday 11th April 1970

I am writing now in the state of Queensland after a mammoth 600 mile trip from Larrimah. The road was good and the weather not too hot, so these were a considerable help. However, a quick look up in the rear vision mirror has told me I’m as tired as I feel, revealing dark circles under the eyes. 

The Northern Territory, or at least the area we passed through, was more tree-filled than I had anticipated, but all the same very dry, even though they have just finished their wet season. As we approached Queensland the country opened up and revealed wide sweeping plains, over which spread a rich red sunset. We are in a caravan park at Camooweal, 8 miles across the border.

I’ve just been down for a shower where I found there was a 10 cent slot machine for the water. I decided to be cunning and have a cold shower, but after undressing and stepping into the recess, I found that the hot water came on but not the cold, preventing anyone who doesn’t pay from having a shower at all. Feeling annoyed but not outdone, I stepped out and soaped up from the water out of the wash basin, and proceeded to splash the dirt and sweat away.After not eating anything since last night, we found when we arrived here we had run out of food, so we had a couple of hamburgers which went down well, and left us more willing for sleep than before.

Sunday 12th April 1970

Today we travelled half way across North Queensland from Camooweal to Richmond, about 400 miles on bitumen and dirt, but the dirt was pretty good. We could see where the dirt sections (although now dry), would be almost impassable in the wet. The soil is dark, and many deep corrugations remain where cars have had to plough through in the recent wet. We have been extremely lucky with the weather so far.

Just before the first dirt section we changed the two back tyres, the tread had completely worn off them, and would not have lasted the first rough section of road. We have had a little trouble with the roof rack – the constant moving and re-tightening of the rack has stripped the thread on a couple of the clamps. Yesterday we had it all roped up, and today Jeff tightened the whole rack with some nuts and bolts. Yesterday we came across a bloke who said he had lost his (the same type) on the section we are now on, so we’re crossing our fingers.

This morning we talked to a bloke with a caravan who was from Perth, and heading towards Darwin. We warned him about the road across the north of WA. We told him of the corrugations and of the caravans that had shook off wheels, and shook bolted fittings apart. I don’t think he’ll try it after that. I wouldn’t like to try it again in a car let alone dragging a caravan behind me.Tonight we ate boiled rice, fruit damper, and a packet pudding which smelt better than it tasted. But the rice and damper were good and all were filling anyway. We’ve had showers and are ready for bed.

The caravan park here at Richmond is on a barren hill beside the town, with the local water tower slap bang in the middle of it. The result is that the water heats up considerably during the day, and although it is 9pm, we were able to have hot showers from the cold tap. The water is stored in a beautifully white rounded cylinder atop a lofty scaffold. Gunther couldn’t resist the temptation, climbed to the top, and wrote “3’s A CROWD” in small black letters on it.

Monday 13th April 1970 (written 14th April)

Yesterday we travelled from Richmond to Townsville without incident. It was quite a change to pass through green grass and lush mountains. I guess the last time we saw this was just before Perth. Townsville is an impressive city with its size and cleanliness, I had no idea it was so large a city.We drove to a lookout, a high hill in the middle of the city, and saw the city sprawled out below us. We contacted a friend of Jeff’s and stayed the night at his place. He would have two of the liveliest and strongest kids I’ve ever known. His house would be only a few hundred yards from the ocean, and looks directly across at Magnetic Island. He, his wife, and kids are going across to the island next week in their boat for a few days. They have invited us to go over there next week on our return from Cairns, and stay for a while, camping outside their bungalow.

Tuesday 14th April 1970

Today we went into town, had a good tour of the shopping centre, and stocked up on groceries. Since returning we have attempted to patch up friend Phil’s rubber boat. It was riddled with holes rubbed in during the trip, with the heat assisting. We haven’t been game enough to blow it up yet, and it’s no use trying it out, as there is a gale blowing with frequent rain.

It has been overcast ever since we arrived at Townsville.A noise has developed in the car, and Jeff suspects the universals to be faulty. At this stage we are hoping that it will get us back to Newcastle. Jeff withdrew more money from the bank today, but Gunther and I hope to get by with what we have. We are staying another night here at Jeff’s friends’ place, and moving on to Cairns tomorrow.

Wednesday 15th April 1970 (written 16th April)

We decided to stay another day, so we played records, read Pix magazines, and went for a swim in the brown coloured ocean. The surf was flat, and we took out Phil’s rubber boat. It stayed up pretty well considering the patches.

Thursday 16th April 1970

Today we’ve made it to Atherton on the famous tablelands. We were all glad I think to get away from the kids, and travelled through picturesque country, especially when we left the sea road and cane fields, and started climbing through tropical rainforest to Atherton.

On the way we took a walk through the jungle to a lookout a mile away. However, it was wet and slippery. Finally we came across a fallen tree which halted our progress. We turned back ripping off leeches all the way to the car. Half an hour later I discovered a gorged one between my foot and sandal. I tore it straight off, so it bled for a while. Later on we took some pictures at a delightful picnic spot on an icy stream. After leaving the rain forest behind, we traversed rich mountainous country dotted with clouds and almost continuous drizzle keeping the windscreen foggy.

                        The Atherton Tablelands, North Queensland

Friday 17th April 1970A cool night last night with plenty of rain, so we slept well. We visited the Tinaroo Dam which was just a dam and not much else, and then visited the beautiful crater lakes, Lake Eacham followed by Lake Barrine. These we set in lush rainforest which lived up to its reputation – it drizzled almost continuously. I found it hard to take photos where there was so much beauty around me.

We made our way down the winding mountains, stopping off at a lookout where the surrounding peaks were hidden with cloud. Cane fields stretched into the distance. Later we passed through those fields where we cut a stick of cane and I had my first taste of sugar cane, sweet but you couldn’t expect much else I guess.We arrived in Cairns, and after a couple of pies and drinks we returned to the car to be greeted by a parking ticket. We went round to the council office, and filled in a form that we put the money in the wrong meter. Cairns has angle parking which can be confusing with parking meters. Later in the caravan park we changed a universal which was getting pretty noisy by now, let’s hope it works ok when we drive off.

Saturday 18th April 1970

Sunday 19th April 1970

Monday 20th April 1970

A lot was crammed into the last three days, so a combined entry will have to do for now. At the moment we are recuperating after a couple of glorious water skiing days at Magnetic Island. 

Friday night in Cairns turned out to be a night of contrasts, the first part enjoyable and the second not so. We had a great time at the Pacific Hotel where there was good beer and a dance. It turned out to be the best Friday night spot in Cairns according to the locals. Three blokes travelling in the opposite direction around Australia were good company, they had camped next to us in the caravan park. I made friends with a girl from Byron Bay, we ran from awning to awning till we made her flat near the railway station.

The rain stopped, so I thought I would walk back to the caravan park, however I no sooner started walking than the rain came pouring down. I dashed for shelter under an awning, and sat down to wait for the rain to ease off. After noticing cars tear past for about ten minutes, suddenly I saw headlights heading straight for me. The car swerved and skidded up onto the median strip which it rode sideways until with all wheels locked came to a stop. I was about to see if the occupants were ok when they all jumped out and within a few seconds had the car back on the road as if nothing had happened.After waiting another ten minutes, I headed off in the rain for the caravan park which turned out to be a lot further away than I had remembered in the car.

I was of course well and truly soaked by the time I made the caravan park, and gladly peeled off my wet clothes before crawling into my sleeping bag. However I was to get no peace as it rained all night and the tent leaked uncontrollably with water dripping on our faces ‘till we struggled out next morning. Everything was soaked, including my mind. I felt as if I had all the holiday I wanted. The three of us had some heated words, and our personalities clashed once more. As with our previous such discussions, I felt more than ever that my ideas and wants of a holiday were quite different from Gunther and Jeff, whose needs were similar. I won’t quote any facts from our arguments, as I don’t want to present my inevitably biased opinion, but the outcome was me packing my bag, and informing the surprised Gunther and Jeff of my intention to head off on my own. We had a good talk about the situation over a cup of tea, and I was persuaded to stay.

The weather showed no relief from the rain, so we packed up the tent and headed for Townsville once more.We arrived Saturday night and went straight to a party. It wasn’t too good so I slept most of the night in Jeff’s car. Next day we took off for Magnetic Island where we were guests of Jeff’s friends once more in their holiday shack at Horseshoe Bay (Jeff and Betty). 

We spent two relaxing days learning to ski on the ocean, and just plain lazing around in the boat or the sand and surf. Jeff and Betty were very good to us, and I feel sure we sponged off them a bit too much. We left late this afternoon hoping this would coincide with the Queen’s boat Britannia leaving Townsville. However, she was running late and we arrived at the jetty before she left. There were thousands of people and cars everywhere running to the next vantage point to see the Queen.

We caught a taxi back to Jeff and Betty’s and will stay here tonight and leave southward tomorrow. The last two days have been beautiful weatherwise. I hope it holds so that Jeff and Betty can enjoy the rest of their week on Magnetic Island.

Tuesday 21st April 1970

Tuesday 21st April 1970

Today we drove from Townsville to Rockhampton. It was a long trip but without any troubles. I think a good night’s rest won’t go astray after tea which is beans followed by rice.

Wednesday 22nd April 1970

Thursday 23rd April 1970

Friday 24th April 1970

Saturday 25th April 1970

On Wednesday we drove from Rockhampton through to Brisbane where we have spent the last couple of days.

On Thursday we drove around the city and I saw my Uncle Dick Bridgford who looks really well. We went to a beaut dance that night at Cloudland, where I met some friendly locals, and afterwards had coffee at the Obselete, and was driven home even! (Teresa, Carmel, and Michael). This was a night I really enjoyed, a night that doesn’t happen very often in a lifetime. It had an atmosphere that could only be described as magic.And now getting back to earth,

Friday was quiet with a swim at the local pool, and the pictures, where we saw a movie that impressed me very much, and left me wondering how much crime people get away with in the U.S.A. It was the low budget film “Easy Rider”, produced and directed by the two main actors, who were new at the game, but seemed to know what they were doing.

We left Jeff’s place today where we have been putting on weight again, I’m sure from all the good food. It was an easy drive to Burleigh Heads, where we’ve spent the day just lazing on the beach, and swimming in surf that has real breakers. Definitely the best surf since leaving home. We had some fish for lunch, but it couldn’t compare with the reef fish we had on the north coast of Queensland.

Sunday 26th April 1970

Monday 27th April 1970

On Sunday we made the last long drive of the trip from Burleigh Heads to Maitland, where we stayed the night at Gunther’s mother’s place. On the way we had lunch with my Uncle Jack Gerard and his wife Marie at Coffs Harbour, where Jack discussed the possibility of writing to General Motors Holden, and explaining how well the Holden went on the trip. Both he and Jeff are now making separate letters, in the hope of getting a new Holden from GMH. With Uncle Jack behind things, there’s sure to be a good chance of getting one.

Unfortunately my Auntie Carrie was out, so we missed seeing her and husband Woodie, but rang her up on our return to Newcastle.

We arrive back to our workplace – NBN Channel 3 Newcastle

On Monday the trip was completed with a short run to Newcastle. We drove straight to NBN Channel 3, where we had movie and still film shot of our return. That afternoon we completed our trip round Australia, with a short drive to Kahibah and home.

Gunther and Jeff drop me back home to Kahibah (photo credit; Norah Palmer)

It certainly was 10,000 miles and 39 days of experience - experience for me not only in seeing our gigantic continent, but in human relations as well. I am the richer for both experiences.Even though we were lucky with the weather all the way, which could have stopped us completely, it was for me an achievement in as far as physically driving right round Australia.

I had a fair idea as to what to expect in the way of the size and nature of the cities, but the towns in general were smaller, and the distances between them remarkably far. I guess there were more trees and scrub than I expected, but the absence of water was frightening.We lived in a variety of caravan parks from excellent to simply disgusting. I’m sure some were health hazards, and I was glad to get out of them.

The heat was not as great a problem as I expected, as it was mainly very dry heat. Only on some parts of the coast was the high humidity distressing. Fortunately we never ran out of water or petrol, and the car never let us down except for the faulty tube near Adelaide, so I take my hat off to Holden.

The countryside was so typically Australian, and I always felt part of it. Even in the most barren parts I felt at home, and a strangely overpowering feeling of security, knowing we had plenty of water and food.Apart from Adelaide and Perth, cities not unlike those in the east, the majority of Australia is worlds apart from the east coast. I guess a person could live in security on the east coast, and never know how huge, barren and devoid of life this country is.

The trip was an experience I could never forget.

 This diary was transcribed from his original notebook by Joe Palmer in 2022.All photos were Kodachrome slide film and shot on a Minolta SRT101.