Michael D.Heath-Caldwell M.Arch.

Michael Heath-Caldwell M.Arch
Brisbane, Queensland
ph: 0412-78-70-74
alt: m_heath_caldwell@hotmail.com

1867 - 1868 - 1869

Admiral Sir Leopold Heath – aged 51.

Lady Mary Heath – (ne Mary Emma Marsh) – aged 42

Arthur

Marion Heath – May – aged 12

Frederick Heath – (Gen. F.C. Heath-Caldwell) aged 10

Herbert

Cuthbert

Ada

Gerard

Thursday 17 September 1868
Friend of India and Statesmen

The Octavia, the flag ship of Commodore Heath, is to be relieved on the East India Station by the Forte. Commodore Heath will remain in command of the Station.
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Diary of Mary Heath, at Moorhurst, Surrey continues. .

Friday 18 September 1868
do - Harrisons came and Mr.Robinson.

Saturday 19 September 1868
I drove to Ewhurst to say good-bye with Mrs.Halson.

Saturday 19 September 1868
Portsmouth Times and Naval Gazette

The Forte, 29, screw, Captain J.H.I. Alexander C.B., arrived at Spithead from Sheerness on Wednesday afternoon, en route to the East Indies, where she will relieve the Octavia, flagship of Commodore Leopold Heath.

Friday 2 October 1868
Times of India

The Persian Gulf at Rest
Mahomed bin Kuleef, late chief of Bahrain, is a fugitive and outlaw; his fort, war vessels, and ordnance destroyed; the demands of the Bombay Government on Bahrein, and it marauding ally Guntter, in respect of the plunder of the traders of Abbotabaee, have been complied with to the full; and once more there is security for all henceforth in the Arabian side of the Persian Gulf. Such, in brief, is the result of the much baffled cruise of H.M.'s steam ship Vigilant, which left Bombay about ten weeks ago, in response to a requisition for armed assistance made on this Government by Colonel Pelly, the British resident of Bushire and Agent in the Gulf. - - -

Hence the Resident found himself constrained to pepper the Sheikh with remonstrances and threats, while weary months were consumed in tedious endeavours to obtain the aid of a Royal Navy vessel, the whole squadron of this station being with the Commodore at Annesley Bay.

For several months the requisition of the Resident in the Gulf - and if we mistake not, those both of the Bombay and Supreme Governments - were slighted by the naval authorities; and when Commodore Heath sailed away to his new station, on the Coast of Africa, he gave a tardy intimation that a vessel should be sent when the season became suitable for operations in the Gulf. - - -

Diary of Lady Mary Heath, at Moorhurst, Surrey continues. . .

Tuesday 6 October 1868
Douglas came - also James Harrison to say good-bye - rain.

Wednesday 7 October 1868
Enchanting warm day. George Whatman came to say good-bye.
Set off for India on the 13th via Marseilles with Douglas and (Roland?) Lyon - reached Galle on the 3rd November.

Friday 9 October 1868 - Paris.
We have had a good night, and this is a grand and comfortable hotel - it is so pleasant having Blanche. I wish we were not going to part so soon! There are a great many English here - and a sprinkling of French - the young ladies are all be-bowed and be-skirted - I don't think it looks well - the long skirts are so much more graceful - and I see only the young ladies are in the Watteau style - at least among the travellers.
Paris looks beautiful and charming - The constant change of scene and excitement keeps me brave and bonny and I do not mean to pine - till I twist my back on "Octavia" or "Forte" next spring. Just such several
The French are so ugly!

Saturday 10 October 1868 - Marseille
Just arrived after 16 hours night travelling - and we are sufficiently tired - and accordingly my heart fails me a little! but it will be all right - Mr.Robinson is extremely kind so I hope I shall do well - my fellow passengers look excessively dressy and I don't like them . . . . .. . This is a fine town and very hot - a splendid harbour and as smooth as glass now - and surrounded with the usual blue-tinted south of France mountains - very few trees and therefore looks as well as is hot - We have a Chinese waiter here - with beautiful plaits that I envy . . . . . .

Saturday 10 October 1868
Naval and Military Gazette
Octavia, 39, Capt. B.S.Hall, with the flag of Commodore Heath K.C.B., we learn from Bombay, Oct 5, had arrived at Trincomalee, and reports that Dr Livingstone is believed to be within a week's march of Zanzibar.

Diary of Lady Mary Heath - India

Sunday 11 October 1868 - off Marseille 'Pera'
Let off dearest and am very happy - I am in a nice little cabin with no one over me, and with two port holes, about the best in the ship - my companions are a Miss C- - an elegant looking girl going off to Hyderabad with a chaperone - the other a Mrs.M- all are nearly young people, leaving their parents or children behind - and the usual diversity of character - some flirty and dressy - some ladylike - some nice, some nasty . . . ..
Mr.R.... is loud and enthusiastic in the praises of General Cotton and his wife. I think I have heard you all speak of them in the same tone - .. . . . . we are 240 passengers and crew so it is hopeless to describe them!

Monday 12 October 1868 - 'Pera'
Yesterday was not much like Sunday - but was rather a bustle - but I have fortunately two nice companions in my cabin - We had prayers in the saloon, and after which - the poor little Mrs.M - - - cried after her baby of ten weeks old, I comforted her and (mothered?) her, poor little thing, and cried after my own 7!!

After this I went on board and had a long and agreeable conversation with Mr.R.... upon things in general - he is such a nice man, so good - so earnest and so pleasant - he commands all the police of the Madras Presidency and is high up on the Civil Service, he quite confirms L - - ideas about the Civil Service in India and says it is the finest thing for a young Englishman to go into - immensely interesting, important and remunerative also - so I suppose my B- - will have a try - Then he introduced me to General Smythe, the brother of the Princess of Capua, who commands Cavalry in Madras - an old bean and batchelor and certainly a splendid looking old officers - with such a beautiful beard and mustache, and such blue eyes!! His head looks quite antique!!

I was called down to give up my ticket, was of course seized with mal-de-mer - and never appeared again till morning -I laid down with fear and trembling with my bag of camphor, but there were no enemies of mankind in my hard little couch - and one cockroach only in one of the ladies sponges! - I have two port holes over my bed, out of which I can gaze at night or early morning on the blue sea, and lovely star spangle blue sky.

We have passed through the straits of Bonifaccio and it is fine - but there is one take off in this otherwise comfortable ship, that the bulwarks are so high, that unless one is always jumping up, one cannot see what passes.

We are to pass through the straits of Messina tonight I am sorry to say - all the girls almost are pretty and a large amount of flirtation goes on - - - Mr.R.- - - looks on with cynical smiles - "Ah pretty creatures skipping about so merrily and happily in two or three years time you will all come back mere bags of bones poor dears!" An English girl chosen in England says Mr.R.... for a wife - - -

Tuesday 13 October 1868 - 'Pera'
One day is much like another - always eating - and the rest of the time sitting in chairs talking, walking - and reading, it is rather pleasant - and would be excessively so if one had only a sister or friend of ones own - - - we saw the old General again and he introduced me to the French Count, but the Count is supercilious and does not seem to wish to improve his acquaintance - - - he is a good looking young man and is always reading a work on India where he is about to travel, for his own amusement with an English friend - and also casting up enraptured looks at a very pretty young English lady - but very fast - we had a pleasant dinner as Mr.R- - - is always my neighbour and there is an agreeable old French gentleman, who talks to us a good deal - we had music in the evening - a Mrs.Gillespie - a friend of mine performing and a very pretty Mrs - - -
Thursday 15 October 1868 - 'Pera'
Still quite calm and still - and today a most beautiful and refreshing breeze; the time goes very slowly, though I think we are the nicest and quietest (sort?) of ship's passengers - I bought a lace (tippet?) from a Greek of Alexandria, having taken of £1 - I was ashamed to go lower - but I believe I ought to have taken off 8/- more!! - it is very pretty and good - the poor wretch made nothing out of the ship this time - homeward bound, he sometimes catches desperate Australian "diggers" (which is the generic name I find of all rough Australians).

Saturday 17 October 1868
Windsor and Eton Express

- - - All honour had been done to Lord Napier of Magdala, whose name would always remain in history on the list of British heroes; but Surrey men must not forget that the commander of the naval forces in the expedition to Abyssinia, Sir Leopold Heath K.C.B., was not only a Surrey man, but a Surrey magistrate [loud applause].

Diary of Lady Mary Heath - India

Monday 19 October 1868 "Nubia"
I shall not be able to write so glibly as last time for the heat is dreadful, we are much crowded, and were it not for the baths, I think we should all melt, the wind follows us so that we get very little drought, and the coolest place is the saloon where we are all sitting, as the punkahs are all going - we arrived at Alexandria early on Saturday morning - and I passed a very pleasant day - with the Willoughby's.

Captain Willoughby - who is a grand man there came on board ship - and oh delights and refreshments he took me and Mr.R... off in his gig, manned by an Arab or Egyptian crew - he showed us his office - which had been a palace belonging to Mehemet Ali - and very cool it was and lofty - and then to his house where we met the kind Mrs.Willoughby and her pretty step-daughters . . . it was so delightful to get away from the ship - it all looked so cool and delicious - the immense lofty rooms covered with cool matting - instead of horrid carpet, they will put in the rooms even at Suez! l
Alexandria is full of rich merchants houses with mud, squalor, wretchedness, and dirt up to the walls - the general untidiness strikes most the European green eye - the place is teeming with human life (and other kinds no doub!) - but it was excessively interesting to me, to see all the pictures of these climes, that one had ever beheld, realised - many and many a figure, looked as if it had come off a hieroglyphic - then there were the strings of patient camels, with wild Arabs - Negros, Copts, Fellahs - every creature you can imagine, one more dirty than another, but not the less picturesque - - - as a whole they are a good looking race - as most have high features, and splendid figures, and I think the bronze is very handsome - - - They seem a brutal set, by the scenes one came across of cruelty to their unfortunate donkeys - of which animal there are legions - The Greeks are the rich people - fancy- a man giving a ball to the Viceroy, which cost £40,000, he had everything from Paris and the ladies wore the most extravagant costumes, some worth £100 - all Paris - everything here is robbery - and contracts are the great source of wealth - even Englishmen complaining, and thinking themselves hardly used - if they have not a share in the spoil! and all comes from the poor! and utterly miserable do they look, the women especially, in spite of many golden ornaments - I saw Pompey's pillar of course - we came away at night - - - we passed through the desert. I am sorry to say and had a most painful journey from the shore to the ship - This Nubia is not so pleasant as the old "Pera" it is narrower, and the people are not so friendly and pleasant, I think it is the heat perhaps that enervates all our faculties - even M. de Charrier can not be witty - we have lost our Count and his violin, he has gone to Bombay with many others, they say we shall have to spend two days at Aden - I hope not!.

Tuesday 19 October 1868
We are still panting, and can do nothing, hardly but grumble - at the food - the heat - the berths,etc etc - the days go like snails and anything more wearisome than this passage down the Red Sea is not to be conceived - Mr.R - - - is very indignant that I am not sitting in my right place - and the old General told the Captain that he was not treating a "lady of rank" as he ought, I can't say it afflicts me - in such a mixed company as this - I would rather remain unnoticed - my cabin companions are very pleasant, and there are a great many good people in the world - all the ladies are terribly young - I think I am the oldest woman in the ship - and I know nothing more unpleasant than being one of a company altogether below one in years - except ones own children - one feels as if there was very little in common - not that I can do much more than exchange civilities for they are all colonial - and not of ones own set - or strata of society - except Mrs.H --- this sounds proud. - - -

Saturday 22 October 1868
It is a little better today - but the state of suffering from heat has been very great, I fervently hope I may never be called upon to make this voyage again - for it is most unpleasant and one finds that it requires some 15 years or so younger year to battle against all - the dressing is a purgatory - and undressing the straps of ones box - puts one into a perfect bath - oh it's horrid and I hope that nobody I love will have to live in India. The poor little children are almost exhausted with the heat, and as pale as ghosts, poor little tings! - they suffer more than we do - This is a letter of complaint but I can not help it - I believe I have got about the best berth in the ship, and the nicest companions on the whole, but bad is the best! even the ink is detestable you see - I believe though I am getting thinner than ever - and that my hair is coming off in handfuls, that I am better than when I was at Moorhurst. This utter change must produce some changes in one's constitution!

They have the piano on deck and sing in the evening, very pleasantly.
Mr.R... is a great talker - but never bores - the General (French) is always amusing and then several little histories are going on, which amuse one - and even have the excitement of being scandalous! There is a mixed assembly on board, nobody of position, the old English General says who nevertheless finds fun for himself in flirting with all the pretty young women on board - The Naval Agent tells me that I am to go first to Madras, and then to Calcutta - he spoke with "Octavia" a few weeks ago - I was in hopes that I should have some rest at Trincomalee but of course this must not be if if cannot.

This Red Sea is deadly dreary, the hours have been like molten lead - and remind one of the Ancient Mariner only we have not the blessing of solitude and there is no living sea-thing to be seen - no albatross - many of the ladies sleep on deck, but by what I hear it is not altogether desirable

Wednesday 26 October 1868
We are out of that horrible Red Sea - I am glad to say - and it is so cool and delicious now - a strong breeze blowing - and quite fresh - which invigorates us all immensely - we arrived on Friday night at Aden, and were instantly surrounded by hordes of Gallas and Abysinnians - and what not! - they made such a chattering and screaming all night that sleep was impossible! at 4.a.m. I was up - having dressed as quickly as I could and turned out a huge cockroach from my sponge! - ugh! such beasts - 3 inches long - and they are always running about our cabin - and then with Mrs.Harrison and Mr.Robinson we went on shore to see the famous tanks - we were promised by the Parsee merchant - first a carriage and four, and then one and a pair, and after waiting half an hour up came a little American cabriolet with one miserable poney!! We had amused ourselves very much in the meanwhile by observing the crowd of savages - with their mop heads and dirty clothes thrown over them, loafing about in hopes of picking up 6d. while their poor women work hard at home, and carry great heavy burdens along the road - they are an independent, active, sharp looking set with very good figures, very tall, both men and women - but excessively lean - we passed their encampment - a set of straw huts, the first habitation of savage men that I had seen - there was a great deal to look at for me - but my companions were so accustomed to the sigh, that their eyes took little note - everything was so strange and new.
Aden, as you have often heard - is a bare volcanic, rocky place, but to me it has its beauties - in colouring - but there is nt a vestige of green, except at the Tanks - however people seem to like it after all "It is near England."

The Tanks are wonderful works holding many thousands of gallons of water - when it does rain, but as there had been none for two years - the tanks were perfectly dry - here there were about two dozen trees of refreshing green - and the inhabitants think the place beautiful!

General Russel came to see me on board, also Captain Colomb, and Captain Picard of the Jumna, one of the great Transports, they were all very civil and full of offers - but Mr.R.... is so good that I want nothing - - -

Tuesday 27 October 1868
M. de Charrier has just given us a discourse upon the duties of a wife to her husbane - apropos of Good dinners of which he is very fond. "Les hommes sont bons, les femmes sont charmantes, il ne depend que de la femme d'avoir un bon marie - la toilette premierement puis le cuisine" - is the summary of his advice. . . . . well he is a clever old gentleman, and I shall remember with gratitude the many amusing dinner and breakfasts he has been the means of us . . . .

Friday 30 October 1868
Only two days more of this life, I am thankful to sa, for I have got thoroughly sick. I have made acquaintances, but no friends, and it is very dreary work coming out alone, only to be borne by comtemplating the reward to be obtained at the end - as I said the passengers are for the most part 20 years or so ones junior and that is uncomfortable - and being all huddled together with a parcel of girls . . . . we have gone on in the same monotonous way, but we really have very pretty music - the singers take great pains to practice their pieces and sing to us every evening.

Saturday 31 October 1868
We had a sensational night - last night the sky looked leaden, white clouds in relief on the gray background, a sure sign of storm, in our country at least - after some very pretty singing, we retired to our abominable little pens, and stony little beds - or trays - I was awakened by drops of water on my face - thinking it as usual, a part of my sufferings to endure! with patience - washing decks - though rather early, I lay still for a minute of this - and then there was no mistake - we were in a storm, lightning gleamed - the thunder rattled - and the rain and wind flew like a wild-spirit into our cabin through the open port- and we were flooded in a moment - there were shrieks for the much enduring stewards and a motley assembly of dishevelled ladies in dressing-gowns and head gear, various - crowded into the saloon - everything in confusion, we had to sleep on the too useful tables.

Saturday 31 October 1868
Naval and Military Gazette

The Persian Gulf - Colonel Pelly, aided by H.M.S. Vigilant, and three vessels of the Bombay Marine, has succeeded in once more establishing order in the Persian Gulf. The marauding Chief of Bahrain is now a fugitive and

Diary of Lady Mary Heath - India

2nd November 1868 - Galle
Here I am immensely happy - dear Leo came off in his "gig" and was down in the cabin very soon - and looking exactly as he did a year ago - - - - you may judge of my delight at seeing him looking so well and unworn - and the ecstasy of being delivered from my prison - He took me to a beautiful house called the Queen's House with about six lofty rooms, all to ourselves - 20ft high - with carved ceilings - cool matted floors and ebony furniture - quiet servants dressed in white of the utmost purity - and a dear little Agah - Cingalese waiting for me.

My bedroom is also spacious - and my bed about 10ft wide - made of ebony . . . . This is an exceedingly pretty place - so green and charming after our hot and arid journey - the Cingalese are quiet looking, respectable people and great cheats. Leo and I have been pestered by people offering things to sell - and asking us just twice as much as they ought to do - We have a pretty garden here - and all night long we have hear the frogs with their chorus of bed-a-kak-kak-kak - in all sorts of tones and voices, crickets also singing - the early morning brought the birds whose language I did not understand - it was though, very sweet, but I heard the crow and actually a vulgar little sparrow who chirped away just like his European brothers do on a dirty London chimney pot.
We sat down to our breakfast of fruit and (curry?), delicious oranges - bananas and cucumber curry - This morning all the officers have been call (calling?) - - -

Monday 2 November 1868
Liverpool Albion

- - - -We have been informed that our Minister at Teheran has, at the request of the Government to which he is accredited, applied to Lord Stanley for the "loan" of an English naval officer to be engaged for one year certain on full pay and table-money of his rank, to advise as to the equipment of a squadron of sufficient strength to maintain peace and order among the marauders who hitherto have imparted an undesirable reputation to the Persian Gulf and at the same time, to give that degree of dignity to an empire which is making rapid strides on the road to civilisation. - - -

In order to guard against the probability of collisions which might always reign between naval officers, it will be necessary that the gentleman who is to be selected to proceed to Persia should be junior to Commodore Sir Leopold Heath. - - -

Tuesday 3 November 1868
The Scotsman

Death of Captain Edye. - Intelligence reached London yesterday morning from Bombay of the death of Captain Joseph Edye R.N., C.B., in command of Her Majesty's corvette Satellite. Captain Edye's services during the war in Abyssinia were invaluable, and have been warmly acknowledged by Lord Napier and Sir Leopold Heath.

Saturday 7 November 1868
Army and Navy Gazette

- - This well judged expedition may be the means of saving life in this malarious locality. He was then called to Bombay to join the Abyssinian expedition.About this period (November 1867), Captain Edye was appointed by Commodore Heath senior naval officer at Annesley Bay; the Satellite was the first man-of-war there to receive and arrange for the arrival of the transports in this barren and desolate station; the expedition being at Bombay, under the command of Sir Robert Napier - - -

Sir Robert Napier arrived in the Octavia on the 4th of January, 1868, there were then about 190 transports and troops, camels, elephants, mules, horses and bullocks, all of which were supplied with distilled water from the condensers, at the rate of 44,000 gallons daily, all hands working night and day. One of the transports, with railway stores and engine was stranded; Captain Edye discharged the cargo, working day and night, and got the vessel off, this was about 100 miles from Annesley Bay; had she been last, the expedition would have been greatly crippled. On the arrival of Sir Robert Napier and Commodore Heath, they congratulated Captain Edye on the great progress he had made for the reception of every department of the expedition. On the 27th of February, 1868, Commodore Heath forwarded a copy of their lordships' Order, expressing their satisfaction on the valuable services rendered to the Abyssinian Expedition by Captain Edye. On the 5th of March Commodore Heath conveyed again their lordships' further approval of the zeal and ability of Captain Edye, and his officers - - -

On the 16th of February Commodore Heath reports his satisfaction at the great assistance he had received from Captain Edye, not only on the occasion of clearing the stranded transport Burmah, but in the arduous and prolonged duties which had fallen to the lot of the Satellite - - -

Thursday 12 November 1868
Fifeshire Journal

Death of an Officer of the Abyssinian Expedition.
The death of Captain Joseph Edye, of Her Majesty's ship Satellite, was noted in these columns a few days ago. Readers of the Abyssinian war despatches will recognise the name as that of the officer who, until after the arrival of Sir C. Staveley at Zoulla, bore the burden of landing the troops on a naturally difficult shore, which his untiring energy had already converted into a practicable landing place, of watering the troops and their cattle, and of encamping the army of pioneers and followers who attended the expeditionary force. Each of the Generals, including Sir R. Napier, thanked Captain Edye for what he had done as for a personal favour to themselves. Captain Edye's senior officer, Commodore Heath, warmly commended him, and the admiralty twice thanked him in official despatches. - - - -

Saturday 12 December 1868
Naval and Military Gazette
Octavia, 39, Capt. B.S.De R. Hall, flag of Commodore Heath C.B., arrived at Galle Oct.31, from Trincomalee.

Diary of Lady Mary Heath - India

16 November 1868 - HMS Octavia
Dearest - I have been looking so hard at the Photos of my darlings, and longing to give each a very tender kiss - - - -

Papa and I are very happy though I do want my children - and very easy in our comfortable roomy cabins - and all the officers are very pleasant and agreeable - I am gradually beginning to know them now - as far as the Lieutenants at least - there is an ominous gathering of Mids that I fear I shall never master . . . .

I have been up on deck this morning with Papa - watching all the Domesticities of the ship - the muster of the men - three miserable prisoners looking prisoners - the morning prayers - the looking over the men's kits - Papa has nothing hardly to do with the ship - and we and the Captain and Officers of the Watch, stand grandly on the Bridge - from whence we survey "the lower world" - for we are very exalted persons I assure you! - it is a pleasant life - and very pretty - especially when they use the sails - I like to see the young light-footed Middies flying along the deck - - - - there is a band on board which makes us very lively - We have breakfast at 8. Tiffen at one - and dinner at 7 - with Captain Hall, Mr.Walker, Flag Lieutenant - and Mr.Wyat, Secretary - and they tell very amusing stories sometimes - Think of one Captain having all his cocks and hens and ducks brought down to his cabin - and having themn all dried with towels!

We have had a death on board, poor Toby - a dog that went up to Magdala with the R.N. Brigade - he swallowed some paint-water, poor fellow and screamed dreadfully all the time that I have been on board, all last night - when with one desperate effort he managed to climb upon the Quarter Deck - and died - the sailors were all devoted to him and sewed his corpse properly up in his hammock - all the Watch attending his funeral . . ..

19th on Papa's birthday (18th) . . . we arrived here - at Trincomalle - which is a very charming place though it does not rival Kandi in my estimation. The entrance at the harbour is very beautiful - as it is a sort of lake shut out from the sea by winding shores, well wooded - and a red sandy soil peeping out here and there amongst the jungle - the water is a deep green - Papa's house is large and spacious - - - when sitting on the Verandha I look across a pretty garden - over the beautiful bay to "Sober Island" which belongs to the officers of the Royal Navy and where they have Bungalows - our garden is full of sweet little birds, squirrels, and splendidly large butterflies - which would drive you all wild with delight - and if you were all here you would make a grand collection in a very short time . . .. We had the Band under our Banyan Tree - and some of the celebrities of the place came to it - a famous young widow, rather pretty and fast - and others . . . .

We have just had our breakfast of curry, fish and fruit - custard apples . . . . bananas, oranges, pine-apples - in any quantity, the climate is quite charming now, and the only things that tease me are little eye-flies - which are continually flitting about ones face . . .. Papa and I got up at 5.30 and took a charming drive round the harbour - returned at 7. lay down till 8. then the delicious bath. I feel as fresh as possible - we shall not now stir till 4. when the next of the day will be past - and a fine breeze set in .

I am inclined to think that with a little care and good management people have quite as much chance of keeping their health here as in England - there are no colds and coughs to be caught and you cannot over-tire yourself as it is impossible to walk for any distance - or to over-tire yourself. I own that it is an idler-making climate - it would be rather hard to manage a family of young children out here

Yesterday Leo and I were up at 5.a.m. to go to a place 8 miles off called "Mnavelly" (?) with the Birches' and others. Leo rode with mad-cap Mrs.Birch and I drove with Mr.Birch, Mrs.de Morency and Mr Lyall - through jungle, moor and marshland - all very pretty, till we came to the "Rest House." Mr.Birch is a clever man so I had an agreeable drive, he talking of the country, his children and prospects - etc, arrived, we had breakfast of pea-cock! jungle fowl! curry, sandpiper snipe,queer vegetables, and guava jelly - a jungle repast, and then sat all day in the verandah, looking toward the sea, working, reading, talking - whist playing and astonishing vivacity on the part of Mrs.Birch.

At last Leo and I got rather tired of our companions - and we took a little stroll in to the jungle to (repair?) ourselves, and shortly after took our departure. Had a charming drive home - and finished the day with standing looking at the moonlit Bay .

Sunday 22 November 1868
Just come from Church - which is pretty, cool, all venetian blind fitted doors and windows and filled with punkahs, weak music rather, I think the climate affects the voice.

Yesterday Leo and I go up at 6 - and preceded to review our domains, visiting the Kitchen (which here, is always placed at some distance from the house - the stables accompanied by "Joseph" our Tamil Appoo - or Head Man - we found the Cook asleep - then to the Kitchen Garden, where our Head Man and four coolies pretend to do their work - I think we agreed that there were rather too many weeds - of course our three guards turned out and saluted Leo - I staid in and received several callers yesterday, and then we had the band under the Banyan tree, and all the ladies came to laugh and talk - we had a dinner of 20 or so - Band playing and everything grand! Ladies well dressed and gentlemen full of talk.

Tuesday 24 November 1868
A long day again, Leo and I went to return calls - it is useless to enumerate the people, who are not the least interesting , and only useful as forming topics of conversation - here - they all have their little peculiarities - and which are freely discussed by us and between you and me - I think the men are as fond of gossip as we are said to be.
We had a pretty ball - the 10 ladies who did the dancing had very hard work, but appeared were none the worse for it - and got merrier and more active every hour. Leo and I slipped very early.

Sunday 29 November 1868 "HMS Octavia"
We left Trinco: on Thursday afternoon - and have been steaming and sailing alternately ever since towards Calcutta - I was sorry to leave Trinco' certainly but at the same time I am glad of change. I consider this "Octavia" as my home as we are much more alone and left to ourselves.

Wednesday 1 December 1868 - "HMS Octavia"
Captain Hall took us to "Sober Island" which is sacred to the officers of H.M.'s Navy but we had our "curries and whitebait" at the Ward Room Bungalow with Captains Maclean and Hall and then took a walk round the Island through mazes of paths which are all cut by the officers themselves, this being their own property - their hermitage and retreat - there were peeps to be seen of the sea every moment - through the trees and altogether (ship rolling dreadfully) it rather reminded me of Mt.Edgcumbe.
We came to the "Gun Room" Bungalow, where our presence put to flight several Middies who were regaling themselves with Beer and considered themselves as not fit to be seen by "Lady Heath."

Captain Maclean got them all back but one, however and they hustled on their jackets in spite of what I could say . . .

In the evening we all went to a ball given at the Fort by 59th which was very pretty - the room was decorated with flags and green creepers - our band played exceedingly well - the 12 ladies were tastefully "got up" and very merry - and altogether it was a successful affair. I actually was persuaded to dance two round dances by Mess.Shaw and Captain Lefroy!! fancy how infected I must have become by the universal cheerfulnes of the party!

Thursday 2 December 1868 - "HMS Octavia"
We had a tender farewell to all the people. Major de Montmorency brought me the Cocoa nut flower that he promised me. Captain Lefroy came and said goodbye - many ladies came to bid farewell to the Ward Room - and to be embarked and have been very quiet ever since- Leo and I play whist either by ourselves or with others, I draw and work and read and take my regular walk on the Bridge with Leo - and chat to such officers as may be there. We have gay music played every evening - and sleep like "tops" with every port and door open - no holystoning having the power to awaken me.

Yesterday Papa and I attended service - I leaning against the Capstan, on account on the rolling of the ship. Captain Hall was clergyman and the sailors sang, lead by Papa's Coxswain, Mr.Damill who is Choir Master and prime mover in Church music!
After this Papa and I read Aunt Posy's book, which is very hard and requires much attention. Then a siesta, a walk on the Bridge, and watching the operation of hauling down the Fore-main-mizen, top gallant, and royal yards and housing the top-gallant masts!! - there Fred - which was a ticklish business as the yards go swinging about amongst the ropes and rigging, as if they were bent on knocking some of the clustering sailors out of their clinging -places, into the sea or anywhere.

Wednesday 2 December 67 (?)
Tuesday and Monday have been monotonous, and I have nothing to recount of them, except that I have lost all Papa's winnings at whist . . .. Papa looks so resigned at my blunder that I must give up playing.

I have also been reading a story book belonging to Captain Hall - walking on the Quarter Deck and Bridge, and watching the sparkling waves, and trying to find out a principle by which to guide my pencil when I make a little drawing - but it seems to me all restless motion and endless lines and hopeless forms!

We have seen nothing but a floating tree, which shows that we are approaching the mouth of the Ganges - and also beautiful sunrises - and sunsets. The sky does not appear to me to be of a deeper blue than in England, but the clouds are very massive and grand.

This morning all the boys would have been glad to have been standing by me and Mr.Walker for we had "General Quarters" which means exercising all the guns as if a real action was going to take place - it was a beautiful sight to me - what with the active attitudes of the men, the precision with which they performed all the various parts of their drill, and ones fancy, which enable one to picture what the scene would be, if a real, veritable sea-fight was going on.

You will be happy to hear that, after a desperate engagement in which a fire took place on board, dreadful stern shots went raking down the main deck - the enemy was successfully repulsed, being thoroughly undone, by two or three awful broadsides, being poured into her unfortunate sides!!! It was very exciting and perfectly harmless as of course you know - that we had only the pop of the tubes - the rest was purely imaginary . . . the men only acting exactly as they would have had to do if a battle had been going on. All the officers had their swords and dirks on, and everybody was in his place - the bugle sounding the silence etc - and the Commander's voice giving the orders the only human sounds heard -

Papa meanwhile was talking peacefully in his cabin with Messrs.Wyatt and Pullen, about the "soap and candles" of the ship, ie, how much biscuit, sugar, tea, etc, would be wanted.

I like being on board ship extremely as it shews me Papa's daily life.
5 December 1868 - Government House, Calcutta.

Here we arrived yesterday and are living in grand state - we came up to Calcutta in Government Steamer and were escorted by an elegant Aide-de-camp to the Palace of Marble - which is indeed very magnificent - we entered by an imposing flight of stone steps into Marble Halls, and were shewn to our "suite of apartments." I forgot to say, that from the boat we stepped into a carriage drawn by four horses with native postillions in scarlet, and four out-riders - lancers!! (but it won't be so again for we had the Governor's Carriage just for that occasion) was not that grand my children?
We came down to dinner and were received by the Governor's daughter, a very nice person, and only just married - there were swarms of Aides in the room, or rather saloon - and presently His Excellency the Viceroy appeared - and shook hands and took me into dinner, I being the first Lady just now have the honour of sitting on his right (rest of letter lost . . . )

Tuesday 8 December 1868 - Government House, Calcutta
To continue my dearests - my last letter is still lying on the table, and I hope Leo will not forget it, but as he is walking to and fro with the Viceroy in the reception room I cannot disturb him - The news of the new Ministry has just arrived. Sir John Laurence and his Aide are much amused at the appointment of Mr.Bright to India - no doubt when once he gets into office he will be tamed and see what it really is! Ever since I have seen Mr.Gladstone, I have become a confirmed Liberal so I approve!!
It is rather like the curtain drawing up for a new Act - and one feels full of excitement to see what the players will do.

Yesterday after breakfast we had a series of "Wallahs," Jewel-Wallahs, Chicken-Wallahs, Chudda-Wallah, all men with bundles of jewels, embroidery and shawls. The Jeweller was a cheery man, who had come to Calcutta, he told us, with one rupee and 16 annas in his pocket, and is now rolling in wealth.

The Chudda man, was a fine fellow from Agra - and he shewed us most tempting things - if one had a few hundreds in one's pocket one might spend them with profit and pleasure.

Then luncheon, and a drive with His Excellency, Leo and Captain Brooke A.D.C. We drove to Bellevue - where Mr.Gray lives, the 2nd in Command in Bengal - his wife is a pretty woman - we sat there a little time - and departed, everybody bowing and the natives making their salaams, which is very pretty - they touch their foreheads and bow over their hand.

Sir John told us heaps of stories and was very entertaining. He said, thought, that every (Tushaw?) looked on the white man as his enemy - and vice-versa - that the Mutiny did incalculable mischief.

We had a number of new gentlemen and Le Conte de Gaonac (?) amongst others who sat next to me - and I had to interpret between him and the Governor and convey sundry French compliments, of course he talked 19 to my 6 - which made it long work for me - Mr.Walker, our Flag Lieutenant was here - it was refreshing to see a Blue Jacket again.

After a little talk to Mrs.Randle (Catherine Letitia Lawrence (1843–1931), the Governor's daughter, and to Sir R'd Temple - the hour arrived - the Governor's hour, 10 o'clock and we departed to our tent- our bed is covered over with a large square frame work of wood filled with double net - for the musgo's are quite terrible here. Such an ugly beast flew upon me while I was talking to Mrs.Randle, with a head like a cricket - and claws like a crab and a body smooth and nasty.

Thursday 10 December 1868 - Government House, Calcutta
Last evening Mr.Wyatt and Duke appeared lugging in the great bags into our apartment - and I seized on my treasures - in this Great House there is not much time between punctual hours and sight-seeing and drives in the evening and dinner parties - We had a brilliant one last night - 50 - all of rank and fashion of Calcutta, and I assure you they are all very grand people indeed! and one is as much impressed with the wonderful British nation - by seeing how they have established themselves among millions of Indians by any other proof of their greatness.

Tuesday Leo and I went out to luncheon with some friends and were entertained by an exhibition of bears and monkeys - two creatures with wild eyes and hair - red turbans and a bit of cloth that had once been white twisted round them - but as I suspected that he tortured the bear - it was not an agreeable sight.

Maria Millman kindly called on me to take me round some Zenanas, which was extremely interesting - there is a "Zenana work" going on in which Mina takes a lively interest - the medium is a young Miss Nicholson sent out by Church Mission - who speaks Bangali and teaches these ladies to read, write, also geography, history, accounts - and English, it is the desire of the husbands that their wives should be educated - and they pay for it - Miss.Nichols stipulates to teach with her own books only and they begin with "Peep a Dog" = gradually getting on to the Bible - - all these little piercings, at different points of the old edifice must crumble it away in time - the men talk of bringing their women out when they are more educated (and more clothed I hope).

Well we went to see several ladies all living in the dingiest and meanest of apartments furnished with the shabbiest and most faded of chairs &c - though they wear thousands of pounds worth of jewels I believe - The ladies were most of them very young - having been married at 12 or 14 (and become grandmothers at 30 or so). They are such wee little figures - wrapped round with rather transparent chuddahs or shawls as, poor things, they never by any chances go beyond the Zenana door - except in closed palinquins - and as their houses are very wretchedly dark and dismal - gay clothing is not needed everyday - their lives must be wretchedly dull - they seem in fact, to live like little married nuns, in great seclusion.

They are very sweet and gentle looking - very (agreeable) and showed much affection to Miss Nicholson and Marie - they read to us, ask a few questions but were very shy .
At another house we saw a lady who was not well - her sweet little daughter-in-law cameto see us - covered up in red and gold gauze chudda and a splendid cashmere shawl - but in presence of her mother-in-law she did not dare either to lift up her veil or speak above a whisper - she had such a beautiful little baby boy - we peeped at the little woman under her veil - she was so pretty and mignon - I think I should try and go a good deal among these ladies, if I lived here - for I was quite attracted by their gentle ways.

Sir John says it is a mistake to suppose that they have no influence at home - for that they very often bear rule . . . .

We had a grand dinner of 50 people that evening - very splendid - and all the ladies exceedingly well dressed.

Yesterday Leo and I were up at 5.30 to go to Barrackpore, the Vicieroy's villa, it was refreshing to get into the country and the place was extremely pretty. We saw some beautiful Banyan Trees, Lady Canning's tomb, and the Royal Bengal Tiger - the most splendid magnificent brutal I ever beheld. I should have liked to watch His Majesty for half an hour, his movements were so grand and stately, yet so graceful.

We came home very much entertained by the crowds of natives at the station, who seemed to be able to do nothing without such an amount of chattering! Six little women, all holding each other by their chuddohs, looked pathetic, in their helplessness, a wild fakir, dressed in a many-coloured coat, with tangled hair, most attracted my notice.

Leo now wants my place to write, and as I expect Lady Mansfield every moment, I must now stop. We have a variety of "Aides" here. Colonel Blane handsome and grand, been in the Guards, good secretary. Captain (Randly, Reilly?) son-in-law to Viceroy - a merry, nice little man. Captain Kennedy, young and wild. A nephew, Captain Brooke, nice and honest. Captain Lockwood clever and quaint - but I have not spoken two words to him. Mr.Gordon, private Secretary, charming, quiet and gentlemen-like - Oh dear! I rather dread going to Madras to face Lord and Lady Napier and a whole set of new forms! but shall pull through I dearsay - and then we shall be at home in Bombay - but I am sure I will not be ungrateful for nothing can have been kinder or more attentive than Sir John. I have enjoyed it very much but it is rather killing work all this sight-seeing and going out.

Saturday 12 December 1868 - HMS Octavia
Just arrived on board "Octavia," so as the mail is soon going I must close up my despatches. We were up very early this morning, the Viceroy being the only one astir, accompanied us to the embarking place. We had a magnificent ball last night, 800 came - good dresses - and grand supper. I was disappointed in the "beauty" of Calcutta - perhaps it might be some defect of light. I danced once with Sir (Richard?) Temple viz-a-viz to Lady Mansfield and the Viceroy and went down to supper with the "Chief," Sir William, who is so grand, that he hardly condescends to notice his partnery.

Lady Mansfield is a very clever bold woman, not bold in a bad sense, but strong, a great talker and plenty of fun and spirit and withal, a good natured look. I like what little I saw of her. I must tell you about the King of Oude next letter.

Monday 14 December 1868 -
The day before we left Calcutta, Captain & Mrs.Randle took me to see the beasts at the King of Oude's Palace, and very early we went there - and a stranger mixture of a mean imitation of European state oriental magnificence, shabbiness and lavishness I never beheld! We found a large party of the rank and fashion of Calcutta assembled at a collation, to which we were shown by some fat and splendidly dressed orientals - and a jabbering crowd of the same - the tables were laid out with 2nd rate pastry-cooks dishes - the most remarkable thing being, rows of little pasties, all down each side of the table - you broke these open and out flew a little bird!!

The Ex-King of Oude came in presently (Nawab Wajid Ali Shah
, and sat down immediately, before us - such a monster of flesh you never saw! piled with garments of all sorts and description and jewels and looking rather like a Tom-fool on the stage, so varied were the hues of his clothes - the Eastern dresses do not look at all well among our sober, quiet gentlemen - however they appear rich and handsome in material, but as if dressed up for acting, and not attired as becomes a man.

Well this Monarch had Mr.Norman, one of the Judges, on his right hand and made him open one of the little pies going off into an outrageous giggle as the bird flew out - he then got up, and leaning on the arms of his friends, let them out to view a little stone bason, crammed with water fowl of very kind - we followed and walked through rows and rows of gild cages each containing some rare, or some queer bird - for it is this man's fancy, to collect and give the most fabulous prices for any bird which is oddly marked, and he is deep in debt in consequence of this, and other little expenses that befit the state of an Eastern Grandee

We went to another pond and yard, full of every kind of duck, goose, cranes, and water bird that you can think of, all excessively tame, happy and impertinent - so they are kindly treated.

There was a lion and tiger and sundry deer tied up to trees. After we had seen all we returned to the Palace. I saw Lady Mansfield - sat in the ballroom with Mrs.Randle and nursed her dear little boy - looked at the decorations - and then took a last drive with Sir John, had dinner, and dressed for the ball - which was certainly a very striking spectacle.

"They say" when there are no other rooms in the whole world so well arranged for an entertainment, the Tuilleries, even can not beat them. Leo and I agreed that Sir John ought to have had No.4 instead of No.6 candles in his chandeliers and sperm instead of compo! There was hardly light enough, but the supper was grand - all looked gay and well dressed.

We thought to sail to Madras, but the wind is most obstinate and we are obliged to go thumping away with the screw, as usual - - - -

Yesterday went on just the same - I had a walk with Captain Maxwell and Leo on the bridge after 3 o'clock dinner. He has succeeded Captain Maclean as Commander here - and he seems a very charming little, young man of about 27 (they all seem so young to me) - he gave us a most enchanting description of the Pacific Station, and described the Polynesian Islands,as, so many jewels set in Coral reefs and sparkling ocean - he was quite poetic!

I certainly do not care much about India, and am in no wise enthusiastic - the heat, the mosquitoes, and the absence of anything like out-door life are the great draw-backs.
We had tea and Captain Hall, Leo, Mr.Walker and Mr.Wyatt had an immense long gave of whist - Leo and Mr.Wyatt remaining victors of course.

Wednesday 16 December 1868 - "HMS Octavia."
Each day passes very much like another, but there is a pleasing variety also - which prevents anything like dull-ness; though the sea is boundless, the surface - and aspect changes; then there are always beautiful sun-rises (when I see them!!) and sun-sets - which I am always present at - but then there is not much to tell of for it is only the details that vary.

I talk with different people on the Bridge, or I see different maneuverings on the deck, or we have stories, or "shop" at the different meals, as the case may be, the music of the band is sometimes exceedingly pretty, sometimes not anything remarkable - and the game of whist is long or short, lucky or unlucky.

We were told to make our congees to the moon, now young, turn our money &c. &c. We began sailing yesterday, and hauled up the screw - and are now going along 8 knots instead of 1½ as we did yesterday, with a delicious healthful breeze filling all the sails, we shall be at Madras on Friday.

They say Lady Napier is a very charming person, and I know the (Dealtries?), Mr.Robinson, the Gordons, and hope to see Mrs.Scott who was Rose Dumbleton

Thursday 17 December 1868
Times of India

The Indian Daily News thinks the prospects of Port Canning are brightening. His Excellency the Viceroy, accompanied by his staff, and Commodore Heath, have paid a visit to the port. The rise mill, the erection of which we recently noticed, will, it is believed, be kept working as soon as the new paddy is available. - - -

Thursday 17 December 1868
Friend of India and Statesman

The Viceroy, accompanied by Commodore Heath of the Octavia, visited Port Canning on Thursday last and inspected the rice mill. We hope this visit has opened the eyes of the future importance of the Mutlah, and that he will exhibit a warmer interest in the improvement of the port in his new sphere in the House of Peers.

Wednesday 23 December 1868
Bombay Gazette
We have the "Octavia" man-of-war here under command of Commodore Heath. She is lying in the Mutlah

Diary of Lady Mary Heath - India

Friday 18 December 1868 - Guindy Park, Madras.
We arrived here - Madras - yesterday - but the surf was very bad and there was some misunderstanding so we did not land till today. Lady Napier sent off two sweet notes - and we were received on the pier by Mr.Napier, one of Leo's Mids- and Lord Napier's son.

The crossing was alarming! I had to be hoisted into a Masalah boat and hoisted from that on to the pier - by means of a chair and after a long drive, arrived at this very charming abode - itis a delightful, large Indian House, matted, chunnummed (?) to look like marble , lovely furnished, and situated in a Park of 1,500 acres, full of Banyan Trees, which at a distance are extremely like Oaks, with pretty distant views, and full of deer and white oxen, it reminds me of Cassiobury Park.

Lady Napier has been very handsome and is well preserved, and most extremely kind, rather like Mrs.Hobart in manner - nothing can be nicer than she is. Mrs.Fordyce, the Secretary's wife is also very nice - she is a sister of Sir John Hay's. Everything is elegant and charming about the house and much easier than the Viceroy's.

Yesterday we arose early and walked in the garden while Lady Napier took a ride with her sons - we assembled with several more people at "Chota Hasera" (little breakfast) under the Trees in the Garden and very delightful it was. After this we dressed for the day and had breakfast in the State - - -. Made calls - and had just time to come back for luncheon and then after a little drawing room chat - we parted to rest and dress, to go out to an Orphan Asylum where Lord Napier had to distribute prizes and make a speech.

I had to drive with his Lordship and Colonel Fordyce, while Leo went with her Ladyship and Mrs.Fordyce. His Lordship is rather alarming - no - he is very good natured I am sure to me - but he is alarming. A little more so than Sir Laurence.
The ceremony was like all those things, we had a delicious drive back - we dressed again for a small dinner party - Lady Napier looked very well in a most delicious coloured red and violet satin, trimmed all over with lace. We had a committee of taste upon the Race Cup. Captain Gore A.D.C., whistled Annie Laurie - Captain Robeck sang charmingly,and Mr.Liddle played sweetly and then we went and roused the boys at their billiards - and at last broke up, Lord Napier giving me a glass of ice water - and escorting me to the foot of the stairs - bowed, good night. We have our suite of apartments in these palaces - staircase - as well and are very comfortable and luxurious
This is Sunday and extremely hot, only good Mrs.Fordyce and her husband have gone to Church - Lady Napier stays at home to nurse her husband. Leo to nurse me. We go to the Cathedral in the evening.

Young Basil, the Midshipman, has just taken a party of his friends to Madras in spite of his dear Mother's "insistings," to give "those fellows" a luncheon at the Club - it sounds rather wild!

Christmas Day, 25 December 1868 - Trincomalee
We have just come from on board ship - where I have been round the Decks, on Captain Hall's arm looking at all the men's messes and tasting every pudding and cake that was made - and reading sundry compliments and jokes - inspecting all their finery of candles, gold, silver, chandeliers, green bowers &c, &c. but it was not thoroughly well done - and as many of the tables were strictly spartan in their appearance, untrimmed and undecorated - they all seemed to have excellent feasts and to be very cheerful and merry - we had sherry - in the gunroom - Church prayer in the Wardroom and after wishing everybody the compliments of the season, and being complimented, retreated to our Bungalow - and the bosom of our Family - Captain Hall, Messrs Wyatt and Walker.

Captain Hall made a very pretty speech to dearest Leo, Captain H. had told us that he had been asked to dine at the Fort today with all the people, but preferred staying "At Home" on Christmas Day. Leo begged him not to stay for politeness - as it must be very dull - "No indeed" Sir, "I make it a rule to stay at home where-ever that home may be on Christmas Day, and I assure you, I never felt more at home in a ship than since I came out to you here." This was very pleasing to Leo - and indeed we are all very friendly for they are particularly nice young men.

There's that amiable Mr.Walker - slaving away at Fred's butterflies - he is always darting about after them and setting them.

We are going to see the "Sami Rock" (Leo and I) where there is to be a Hindoo Ceremony.

We have seen it - it is in a very pretty situation overlooking the sea - it was a strange sight, weird - and childish too. The rock is one of a heap of huge square stones, standing out, black, and alone from its fellows and looking sheer down into the depths of sea (filled with sharks) 220 feet. The priest was squatted on this rock, when we arrived, and about 20 worshippers grouped behind the rocks; they did not seem to take much part beyond clasping their hands, and watching the incantations of the priest - he arranged various fruits and vegetables in a ring round him - ringing a bell - and increasing - and now and then tossing a cocoa-nut into the sea, towards the end, and as it got dusk he lit a fire and held a copper vessel full of flame towards the sea, intoning a sort of prayer, or litany in a nasal manner - when 2 or 3 of the people knelt and put their clasped hands over their heads. This part looked well - and an artist might have made an effective picture of the scene, with the evening sky, dark sea, grey-red rocks, dusky worshippers - and young priest with his flaming vessel held out-wards, towards the sea, in graceful attitude.

I am glad I saw it.

We dined en famille, and then the gentlemen went to a Christmas party at the Fort - where they had great fun and games with all the young people. Leo and I are quite aged and almost decrepit in comparison with all here!

Yesterday Leo and I took a delightful, early drive to the "Hot Wells" through beautiful jungle, seeing lovely birds, butterflies and monkeys springing about the tamarind trees, which is of a charming growth - we made this excursion on purpose to see the monkeys for Arty's sake. We were very fortunate in coming across two large grey fellows with immense long tails, who made wonderful leaps, and further on, we saw a tree full of little brown, young gentlemen, frisking about in most delightful style.
We also saw the great footmarks of a (rogue?) Elephant, who had, in his rage, torn down huge branches of trees - we saw the long scratches of a bear's claw, the hoof of a deer and other creatures. It was so beautiful and fresh after the rain, so new and wild, that I never enjoyed a morning more than I did this - with Leo. We had a successful "Beach(?) Evening," everybody came and waked up and down and talked and had tea and coffee till dark.

Saturday 26 December 1868
Army and Navy Gazette
Octavia, 35, screw-frigate, Commodore Sir Leopold Heath, arrived at Colombo, Ceylon, on November 12 from Trincomalee and Galle. The object of the Commodore's visit it to prepare plans, in conjunction with the military authorities, for placing the harbours of Ceylon in a proper state of defence against any sudden attack on the sea sides. The works at Trincomalee and Galle will be executed at the cost of the Imperial Government and those at Colombo by the Colonial.

Diary of Lady Mary Heath continues . . . India . . .

Sunday 27 December 1868 - Trincomalee
We went to Church on board - several ladies and gents from the fort joined us. We had to go down and have tea in the Ward Room, and then pushed off for our home - with Messrs Walker, Mr. Hutchinson came in the evening, and after a moonlight walk with attendant cigars - we went to bed.

Monday 28 December 1868 - Trincomalee
Leo and I went to see Fort Ostenbury, from whence there is a fine view of the harbour - a quiet noon, and then we went to say goodbye to our friends - and finished with a "coffee" at Mr.Poles', the district judge - who is a most hospitable little man, and lives in a very pretty bungalow on one of the hills overlooking the harbour. Some people to dinner - Mr.Gennie the Chaplain, a very agreeable man, and great botonist, naturalist and everything.

Tuesday 29 December 1868 - Trincomalee
Leo and I took another pull round the harbour, very pretty. I passed the hot hours in colouring my little sketches, while Messrs W and H devoted themselves to butterfly and bird catching on my behalf. We left dear Trinco at 5. I love the place, for I have passed 12 very happy days there - and it is quiet and sweetly pretty. Here we are on board "Octavia" again - it is bad rainy weather and the sea is rough - I do not mind, but the poor little bride "Mrs.Rule" feels it very much. she seems to have a very attentive husband however - and I daresay she is very happy. I have been sitting in a lashed chair, reading, working and talking to my Pollies.

We had a grand dinner of 50 people that evening - very splendid - and all the ladies exceedingly well dressed.

Yesterday Leo and I were up at 5.30 to go to Barrackpore, the Vicieroy's villa, it was refreshing to get into the country and the place was extremely pretty. We saw some beautiful Banyan Trees, Lady Canning's tomb, and the Royal Bengal Tiger - the most splendid magnificent brutel I ever beheld. I should have liked to watch His Majesty for half an hour, his movements were so grand and stately, yet so graceful.

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1869
2 January 1869 - HMS Octavia - off Galle
A beautiful cool breezy day, and the ship rolling charmingly! - water bright and rough, how lucky I am to be so good a sailor - and that it is a matter of perfect indifference to me whether we are as calm as a mill pond, or in a squall! Perhaps I rather prefer the squall as being the most lively of the two!

New Year's Eve, we spent at sea - we had mostly comic songs, and some very pretty ones of a more refined character fromi Mr.Rule, the Marine Officer, who seems to be a most talented little man (N.B. Feb 26th 1874 - he turned out a villain)

Many of the young fellows were as shy as girls but all did their best. Leo and I sat up to see the Old Year out - and to think of you all and waiting to hear the dine and clatter which all the sailors make at 12 (mid night) on New Year's Eve. Going all round the decks with all sorts of noises, bells, rattles, clatters of every description.

New Year's Day we spent at Galle, going to the Queen's house again, and revisiting all our old haunts; little Galle looked very clean, green, neat and pretty.

Leo bought me gifts in the shape of bracelets &c. - and we came off for our dinner party in the Ward Room.

Tuesday 5 January 1869 - HMS Octavia - off Cochin
Yesterday we landed at Cochin and passed a very interesting and amusing day. Cochin is the most ancient European settlement in India, and possesses the oldest church in the country. It has passed through various hands, Portuguese Roman Catholics, Dutch Protestants, and English, where it remains until the Americans come and take our possessions from us {?} any authority is Captain Castor, a coloured man and Master Attendant of the place - very intelligent and pleasant, and married to a European. Vasco de Gama was buried in that church and there are many old slabs dated the 15th Century.

Cochin is a pleasing place - flat, but plenty of bright water and cocoa nut groves - and is inhabited by the most surprising boatmen - they pull like English sailors - and will sometimes take you along for 40 or 50 or 90 miles without laying down their oars - no meat or beer there - they are mostly Christians - Roman Catholics - and there are a number of churches. It was refreshing to feel oneself amongst a Christian population - which added to the beauty of the day - the neatness and ancientness of the place gave it a certain charm.

We went in the gig to the landing place, watching the curious way they have of fishing - - - our boat was pulled by 16 Cohin men - who seemed to go wild with excitement - quite dragging us through the water, and at such a rate - chanting queer sing-song - that no one understood; we were thus taken to the Residency - for all beyond the town, which is English, belongs to the Rajah of Cochin - who pays us a subsidy and is obliged to have a Resident.

We were met by the Durwan - Prime Minister, a very intelligent looking man - clothed in white - and a gold band on is turban, also Captain Hay, 2nd in Command. They received us respectfully, and we passed 3 or 4 hours very pleasantly in a beautiful verandah - and eating tiffins - dinners, champagne - fruit, flowers, punkahs - all excellent.

These Angle-Indians live in all luxury if they have to put up with separations &c. - but if, like Captain Hay - you have your wife and children, plenty of sport, and cool hill-country to go to - I do not think that they may be said to lead miserable lives.
After the heat of the day had passed, we went with Captain Custor to the "Jew's Town," it appears that this colony of Jews, fled from Palestine after Titus' destruction of Jerusalem and have been settled here 1500 years or so. I am always interested about the ancient, chosen race, and wish we could have stayed longer; they live quite apart, in narrow streets and every door and window latticed; they seemed very shy of us, at least the women, and we only caught sight of a few heads, peeping out here and there.
We went into the synogogue which was very neat and clean and hung with abundance of lamps - we were received by the Chief men, both very fair - as fair and fairer than any of our gentlemen, with brown hair and magnificent figures.

We were shown into one of the houses and were introduced to the gentlemen's wife, sisters and children - the women were very, very small - very plain, and dreadfully shy - I talked a little to the head-man and sat near his wife, and spoke to his little girl - but we had to come away quickly, everything was very clean and sweet and plenty of lamps hanging to the ceiling, I suppose it was the "guest chamber."

The Chief showed us their Charter which is engraved on copper, and so old that the characters are obsolete. There is a colony of Syrian Christians also here - who have been settled for centuries, but we had no chance to seeing these.

We went on to see the old Church which was remarkable for nothing but its age, and for the almost effaced stone slabs - which cover the remains of ancient Dutch and Portuguese soldiers and adventurers.

Mrs.Walker and I spelt out one of 1560 -comparatively modern to their neighbours the Jews.

None of the Middies came with us - though they might have done so - by the way. Between the Jew's Quarter and the English or Dutch town, we had "great fun" for we were accompanied by a"snake boat"which is an immensely long canoe, manned by from 20 to 80 men, who sit 10 or 40 of a side on the gunnel - and armed with short paddles, and in admirable time, they dig as it were, into the water, with most desperate vigour and speed, and with shouts, to keep time, scour through the water with amazing rapidity - it was so odd and novel altogether, that we were convulsed with laughter! Captain Hay wanted to run into the snake boat, that we might see how they would right themselves - the men would have liked it, as they had next to no clothing - but an unfortunate Peon - dressed in grand scarlet clothes - who was there for our honour, looked horror-struck, and for his sake they were spared.

We get to Goa tomorrow which they say is very quaint.

Sunday 10 January 1869 - HMS Octavia - Goa.
We landed at Goa on Friday - it is a very pretty place, with a back-ground of "
"Ghanet" - a river and trees - and plenty of buildings, convents, and churches, the remains of the Jesuits, who appear to have got more done in their time than any other order of men. We were received by his Excellency and the Portuguese Adie-de-Camp, and several others, some of whom looked as if they had walked out of ancient portraits by Velasquez &c. The house is a good one, but not furnished with any regard to luxury - they were all kind and polite - and by dint of a mixture of French, English, and Spanish, Leo and I and some others who spoke French got on very well - this was New Goa - for ancient Goa is 6 miles up the river, and has been abandoned on account of the supposed unhealthiness of the situation.

We were a large party from the ship, and very "jolly" and merry - we had two boats of our own, one Portuguese - all towed up by our own steam launch - full of "Middies," it was extremely pretty going up the river and in its prosperity must have been full of life.

We landed at last, having passed many villages and churches, the windows of the houses lined with spectators - all Indians or Portuguese, and one more ugly than the other! All are Christians nearly and by what we saw of their fields afterwards the Jesuits must have taught them agriculture as well as religion, for they were like gardens - and so very much better than anything else of the kind we had seen.
Well it was in the middle of the day, and the sun was like fire! Our Portuguese friend puffing along and saying he had a great respect for the sun - he knew him of old in Africa &c., and I daresay thought it dreadful work taking "those curious English about" instead of smoking one of the 30 or 40 cigars, he told us, he consumed daily(!!) quietly, in the shade of his house.

He took us to the Cathedral which is a fine building, standing, once, in the midst of a populous fine town, now it is alone with a few other brothers in desolation, surrounded by ruined remains of houses, filled with jungle, snakes and cocoa nut trees, and inhabited by a few mournful priests and Indians: it was deliciously cool inside, the walls are thick and very lofty and the hot air excluded, and in short, the contrast between the beauty, attractiveness and pleasantness of these Churches, and the ugly, hot churches we had seen in our places, was rather shocking to ones feelings.
The decorations are very handsome, fine alter pieces, framed in gilded sculptured wood - in other respects like all Roman Catholic Churches.

We, after this, went to what used to be a Jesuit College, a fine large building done as they did those things, with a really beautiful church dedicated to St.Francis Xavier, and which contains his body, encased in a splendid tomb made of marble, bronze and silver, with relief sculptures illustrating different events in his life, and beautiful figures of little cherubs in white marble, perched at each corner of the tomb. I particularly admired these - they seemed as if made of living flesh, the marble so apparently soft and flexible, every bit was brought from Italy.

We were told by one young Portuguese officer, that 6 years ago Zavier's body was exhumbed and that it was as fresh as possible and that its touch caused a paralytic to start up, in perfect possession of the use of his limbs, our other friend, the elder of the two, who had been in Africa amongst the French, laughed at him.

We went into an old convent where the Govener rests when he comes up for the religious fetes - where we or rather they - drank beer; a surly inquisitor looking priest entertained us, it being Friday, perhaps he was shocked and disgusted with the heretics.

We returned as we came and went again to the Palace, and were entertained at a pretty luncheon with plenty of fruits and good wine and cakes - but very little meat. Madame and our friend's wife were there also, they were very kind and nice, leading me and Mrs.Rule by our hands to our apartment. Altogether they rejoiced in very pretty, gracious, hospitable manners. Madame and Leo got on very well in Spanish, we had speeches and toasts for the health and prosperity of both countries and compliments to the officers on both sides.

We went afterwards in carriages to the Government country house, which used to be the Sanitorium of the Jesuits, it is in a charming cool situation overlooking the sea and the poor, hardworked European priests must have had a pleasant, peaceful time up there, and many a good talk no doubt.

Here we had some more wine and fruit, the remains of our luncheon at the palace sent on after us!

After waiting for the rest of the party who had gone round in boats adn a pleasant talk with our friend, who french improved every half hour, so departed, many good wishes and salutations passing from side to side.

I shall put a white stone against that day day at Goa! where we were close to Bombay tomorrow we shall leave this ship for good, I am very sorry for I have been most happy and shall regret much parting with our naval friends.
- - - - -
Arrived at Bombay and at 8p.m. Sunday, have just returned from Colaba Church and calling on Lord Napier of Magdala and visiting our pretty bungalow.

10 January ? - The Bungalow - Bombay
Mrs Basil Hall arrived yesterday and the mails with her. We dined at the Chief's (Lord Napier) tent and it was very pleasant. I like him much. Bombay is a cheerful, busy place and has a good harbour, it is the best of the three towns

Wednesday 13 January 1869
I have not much to relate. Yesterday we went to lunch at Parel, the Governor's house or Palace , it was dreadfully hot going out at that time, and Leo and I have determined to abide at home till 4.pm. The House is a fine one and handsomely got up, the usual crowd of Aide-de-Camps and secretaries. Mrs.Fitzgerald who is handsome looking, but not sweet like Lady Napier or charming. Mrs.Fordyce - manner is everything - Sir Seymour came in and was very gracious - we went and got some books at the library and then home and whist in the evening, I again being Leo's partner - so of course we lost.

Friday 15 January 1869 - Bombay
Yesterday I had to received numbers of visitors who kindly came to call and after luncheon we had juggler...

Leo and I took a drive and saw various rich Parsee houses surrounded by gay gardens which with their trim arrangements of vases and pots of flowers, reminded me very much of the neat villas round Paris - these Parsees seem a wellto do race.
We dine with Chief tomorrow on Monday there is a reception at Pasel. Friday a dinner at Parel. Saturday a dinner at Sir C.Sarjeant's - and we go one day to Elephanta.
Captain and Mrs. B.Hall dined here last night. She looked so nice and it was very pleasant.

27 January 1869 - Chowk Hotel, Matheran
We came up to this pretty place yesterday, it is the Sanitorium of Bombay, 2,300ft above the level of the sea, and composed of a heap of volcanic rocks covered with woods and bungalows, roads and paths in every direction and beautiful views looking down upon various rocks and distant plains with the sea of Bombay in the extreme distance; some of the "points" as they are called are very striking. - - - Just taken a whiff of Leo's cigar - he is deep in our mother's 'Mount Sorel' which we found here - so nasty how can they like them.

I will go back to Bombay scenes - we dined last Saturday with Sir C.Serjeant, there were ten people, and an exquisite dinner and a very cool house. Sir C.seems gloomy and wears his hat deep upon his brows, I think he looks as if he had a "temper" and "they say" he was a "ruffian" to his wife, and it is all his fault that they live apart.
Monday, Leo and I made a series of uninteresting calls, and as it was extremely hot, I got very cross and crabbed. Messrs Beran, R.N., Ryan and Dr. called and amused us very much with a description of their visit to a Rajah or Chief - they had luncheon.
By the way Leo and I met Tourkee, while we were driving, in a fine carriage and outriders - he jumped up when he saw Leo - but we passed each other too quickly, he looked such a gentleman and so handsome. I hope Leo will take me to call upon him, perhaps he will let me see the 4 Mrs.Tourkee's besides his fascinating self!

Mr.Beran gave me a bouquet which had been presented to him by the chief. We dined with Mrs.Hunter - Mary Peake - they have a nice house and she dresses as they all do here "splendidly" and have their carriage and pair, and have no money - that's how we all live at Bombay, up to our income to the very verge £3,000 a year pay and retire on £800 - or £300!

Mrs.Hall is dreadfully affectionate, she remembers you with rapture.

Tuesday morning
We set off here at 8 o'clock, it is very amusing going by train here, you see such an amount of native life in the endless variety of people that go 3rd class, some with their wives and families, pots and kettles and rags - others, the better sort clad in silken robes of most becoming tawny huses - also many gold and silver bangles, I think nothing is more graceful than the dress of the women, it folds round the figure.
I stopped in my recital last night - we got out of the railroad at Narel, Leo on pony,(Agah do?) and self in a palanquin, mounted the hill, it was very hot and fatiguing. I did not see anything in my box, and do not approve of the method of travelling - I had 6 bearers, and they made extraordinary noises the whole way up, by way of marking time, and keeping step.

1 February 1869 - Bombay
I can imagine no pleasanter life for a wife than mine is at this moment, following her husband about to all sorts of various and interesting scenes and living with him in his work - which it is so rarely in the power of a wife to do, unless she is married to a clergyman - here I am in the midst of it, and witness by eye and ear all that goes on, but the absence from the family, the children is the thorn which pricks one continually. So I shall be glad to go and sorry to leave and look back also with gratitude and pleasure to my most happy and enjoyable 6 months cruize!

Yesterday, Sunday, we went as usual on board for morning church - and met all the friendly officers - I went down to the Ward room - to have wine and chat - and then went home to repose in the cool bungalow and and read.

At 5. we had a little refreshing drive before evening service - and went down to the Apollo Bunder or landing place to see Captain Colomb towing in the "Daphne," Captain Sullivan who has been slaver-hunting in the Mozambique since June - - - the two Captains came to dine. Captain Colomb I know of old and he is a very nice man. Captain Sullivan is new to me, but is pleasant, simple and hearty like all sailors! "bless them"!!

He gave us an interesting account of his expedition and brought up freight too, Leo's share being about £20. Captain Sullivan has captured 17 dhows and over 300 slaves, they are liberated at Zanzibar but it seems rather doubtful whether we do good or harm, however slaves swim off to the ships and are starved and ill-treated on board the Arab ships - and fed and cared for on ours, they must prefer us - one should think; when once in Arabia, or anywhere else with their masters, they seem to lead happy lives, it is in their own country -as one may read in Baker's book - and in the passage that they suffer so much - and the greater part are poor little children or very young people.
The (Bg?) of Zanzibar devotes himself to a girl's and boy's school of rescued little slaves, he picks out the most promising from these living cargoes, and hopes to educate some at least as missionaries, the rest get some sort of employment here or in Zanzibar.

Tuesday 2 February 1869
Bad news. This morning brought a telegram directing Leo to haul down his pendant and retire to the humble condition of 2nd Class Commodore - it takes of £500 a year and all participation in prize money from Leo - sends back to Captain Hall and Mr.Walker and deprives the poor Secretary of £100 a year - Steward and Coxswain of 2 a day - altogether we have had a sore morning. Leo is patience itself and only gives a low whistle . We all feel very blank, but we have no legal right to complain - but feel hurt, as it was only a sudden strange idea of the new brooms! and if done at all it ought to have been done long ago.

(Leggd?) Tourkee came yesterday to see Leo who had brought him from Muscat the year before. His is a very lovely Arab - with large soft and shining dark eyes, and charming manner but he looks a little of "the wily Arab" at times. He talked through an interpreter, which was a great pity, as his language sounded so eloquent. He dined in the evening with the Marriotts and (Gonnes, Sonnes?) who keep house together! it was a good dinner, and very pleasant.

Leo is made an A.D.C. to Her Majesty which is to console him, but which he had a right to before! He will wear a splendid crimson and gold Sash, over his left shoulder, and when he is an Admiral, tell the children, it will be a fine thing to act with!(!) like their grandfather's scarlet robes at Kitlands! there is no pay attached to the office, till you get up among the first five, so Leo will never get anything, most likely. We are all cynically merry over our misfortunes. Mrs.Wyatt proposes that the Abyssinian Medal should be composed of a "crescent and a cross," Leo is decidedly of opinion that "the Conservatives were guided by higher principles than their successors." !!!
We are going to the sailors' play, but feel in no humour for gaity!!

4 February 1869
Yesterday the Halls came to luncheon to meet their cousins the (Fyers?) - Mrs.Hall was so dear about Leo's change of position, and quite burst into tears - people are so nice and affectionate - it is getting rather an old story now, though.
Captain Maxwell came too, his is very high Ch and holds appropriate political opinions "All of your horrid liberals &c &c."

Leo and I took a little drive and returned for dinner and then we went to the Sacred Amateur Concert which has been got up by an energetic fanatico, Mrs.Paris - fanaticoes are always so very nice, I think - are they not. We heard selections from various well known Oratorios and were charmed &c.

There is one lovely thing out of St.Paul's - "How lovely are the messengers" which was extremely beautiful - I don't know any of that music.

After luncheon we all went to the races - witnessing the scene from the verandah of the Bycalla Club - the place was filled by all the ladies of the place, more of less elegantly attired - some (sports?) but I did not look at them much, it was far more interesting to Leo, and observe the crowd of various nations at our feet - from the Englishman in his dark cloth and high hat, to the dirty, low caste Hindoo with a strip of 3 inches round him, the intermediate spaces being filled up by gentlemanly Arabs in their long coats covering clean long white shirts, and neat little turbans and quiet colours, the true wild Arab with his (hasick?) tied round his head with a whisp of a turban, some black, others grey bearded, all looking grave and sober of aspect and imposing, the Persian with his fat, fleshy disagreeable looking face, high hat, and short coat of the gayest and most varied of colours, the more serious Parsees, looking much more respectable and all in white; and numberless Hindoos, more distinguished by their various turbans than by an particular dress, which as it is generally scanty, is not effective.

There was "The dogy" and various games going on, the races themselves sufficiently exciting, and we enjoyed the fun much.

After this we hurried home to dress for a dinner at Parel, and were rather behind time, as our horses broke down; the dinner was like all dinners, and we got home rather tired at eleven or ½ past.

Monday 15 February 1869 - Bombay.
Papa has just tried on his new "Star" which came by last mail - the insignia of the K.C.B., it does look so nice! There is also the collar of crimson ribbon with large cross like the C.B. appended to it, which is only to be worn on grand occasions, when the A.D.C. scarf comes, Papa will be very magnificent, won't he children!

Wednesday 17 February 1869 - Bombay
What did we do yesterday? Oh, Major MacDonald called, and complained of the heat - and told us also how all Europeans and mixed Europeans of every shade, were sure to deteriorate in this climate "big bones and no muscles or some disease."
The Native and Parsees are getting on so fast that the time will come when our task out here will be finished, and we not longer needed to civilize.

Saturday 20 February 1869 - Bombay
Yesterday was rather interesting, as we went to this prize giving at (Mr.Curtsoziers?) house, where were assembled all the young Hindu and Parsee ladies, and their Mammas and Papas, of his school. You never saw such a bed of pretty, bright flowers as they looked, such lovely colours were their "sorries" or veils. They sung and declaimed in English, very nicely. Mrs.Fitzgerald gave the prizes and Lord Napier made a speech - which art is not in his line.

1 March 1869
After dinner a Mr and Mrs.Littledale took us to a Parsee Wedding feast - where we were led up some very dirty staircases, into a fine, well lighted saloon, where there were a number of sleepy looking Parsees seated on crimson silk sofas, and listening to the terribly monotonous recitation of 3 (Nautch?) girls, who were accompanied by two violinists and on "tom tim," now and then one of the girls advanced out of the row about a yard, making little tiny steps, and then went back again, this was done exactly the same each time, nothing you can imagine more dreary in the way of an entertainment,and this was to go on till four in the morning, without any intermission; we and these people - certainly disport ourselves in a vastly different manner!

We had champagne in a large dirty room below, and then departed - finding myself covered with cocoa - not oil - luckily I had the old Mayo dress on!

Sunday
It was intensely hot and I went to Church only in the evening - At the end of the service the Bishop gave us his blessing, in a peculiarly clear, humorous, sweet voice, it sounded like an angel's, really !

We had Captain de Kandzow - &c. to dinner. Captain de Kantzow is a very odd man and talks everlastingly - he brought me some barnacles from his ship's bottom, as a great curiosity - declaring they were coral, and showed me how curiously the insects worked, I thought to myself, "it is the oddest coral I ever saw," but supposed he must know - but he was soon undeceived by the slight jeers of his brother officers and Leo calmly saying "why those are barnacles Captain de K'." "Oh, are they Sir?" and he and his bason of cruios quickly retired into the background.

Friday 5 March 1869
Leo and I went shopping with Sombjee and I bought a silk chinese dress for the poor little Agah, who seems like to break her heart at parting, and who having been though a little busybody and fond of gossip, very useful, honest and affectionate and docile, I wish to leave with a souvenir, and a salve toher wounded feelings.
One thing one learns very deeply, that human nature is exactly the same, whether bound in white, brown, or black - only one sort, is more ignorant than the other. An Ayah dress only takes 6 yards - she was charmed, and as I gave it to her on condition that she would not worry me with cries and lamentations, she has contained herself very well since.

I saw a horrible case of deformity, creeping along in the bazaar, one sees such, occasionally, it looked more monkey than human, with its knees turned inwards exactly the contrary to nature, it was so shocking.

We had our 2nd dinner party - Mrs.Allen and I undertook the flowers this time, and Leo having made his remarks the day before, all went off beautifully, the firey cook did himself great credit, everybody talked at a great rate, and the band kept us alive most pleasantly.
Leo gives his farewell dinner on Tuesday to about 30 of his officers, and we go on board for the same purpose, and shall be guests of the Ward room. I hope we shall not all cry!

End of Indian Letters.

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