Michael D.Heath-Caldwell M.Arch.

1811

Anne Caldwell of Nantwich -  52/53 

Elizabeth Caldwell (Bessy) of Nantwich - 44/45 

Hannah Stamfrord of Lineley Wood - 57/58 - Sister of Elizabeth Caldwell 

James Caldwell of Linley Wood – aged 51/52

Elizabeth Caldwell of Linley Wood – aged 56/57

Hannah Eliza Roscoe - age 25/26 

James Stamford Caldwell - age - 24/25 

Mary Caldwell - age 21/22 

Ann Marsh-Caldwell -  age 19/20 

Margaret Emma Caldwell (later Holland) - age 18/19 

Diary of James Caldwell

1811 [January]

Tuesday 1 January 1811. 

At home.  Engaged on the Farm and various matters.

Diary of Anne Marsh-Caldwell but could be Catherine Louise writing this bit.

Caractere du Prince Potemkin.

Je vois un commandant d’armees [le prince Potemkin] qui a l’air parasseus et qui travaille sans cesse qui n’a d’autre bureaur que ses genout d’autre peine que ses doigts, toujours couche et ne dormant ni jour ni nuit parce que son jele pour la souverain qu’ill adore l’agite tourjours et qu’un coup de Canon qu’il n’essuie as l’inquiete par l’idee qu’il coute la vie a quelquesuns de ses soldats.

Peusent pour les autres brave pour lui meme, s’arretant sous le plus grand feu d’une  battrie pour y donner ses ordres cependent plus Hlysse qu Achille, inquiet avant tous les dangers gai quand il y est, malheureuse a force d’etre heureus blasé sur tout se degoutant aisement morose, inconstant, philosophe profond minister habile, politque sublime, on enfant de dix ans, point vindicatif demandant pardon d’un chagrin qu’il a cause repasant vite une  injustice croyant aimer  Dieu anignant le diable qu’il s’imagine etre enerve plus grand et plus gros qu’un prince Potemkin, d’une main

Page 46 - 51 – French transcription continues.

Emulation loves – envy hates its object. Emulation hopes, Envy despairs. Emulation is ingenuous. Envy is deceitful, emulation is engergetick, envy is indolent, emulation is the health of genius, envy its morbid disease.

Miss Edwards letters.

Diary of James Caldwell - age 51

Wednesday 2 January 1811.

Mr. & Mrs. Sneyd of Ashcomb, Col. Dobson, Mr. & Mrs. Josiah Wedgwood with Miss. Moreton & Miss Stevenson dined.

Diary of Anne Marsh-Caldwell - age 19

2^nd January 1811, Wednesday

The Sneyds, Colonel Dobson and Josiah Wedgwood dined.

Diary of James Caldwell -age 51

Thursday 3 January 1811.

At home.  At home.  Engaged with the Sneyds &c.  the[y] left us at noon. Farm &c.  Letter writing.  Mr. & Mrs. Josiah Wedgwood.  Snow & frost.  Mr. John Heathcote dined & staid all night.

Diary of Anne Marsh-Caldwell - age 19

3^rd January 1811, Thursday

The Sneyds, Colonel Dobson left us. Mr John Heathcote dined here.

Diary of James Caldwell - age 51

Friday 4 January 1811. 

At home. Confined with pain in the face &c

Diary of Anne Marsh-Caldwell - age 19

4^th January 1811, Friday

Mr J.  Heathcote went.

Diary of James Caldwell - age 51

Saturday 5 January 1811.

Do. Do.  Mr. & Mrs. Jos. Wedgwood left us.

Diary of Anne Marsh-Caldwell - age 19

5^th January 1811, Saturday

The Wedgwoods left us.

Diary of James Caldwell - age 51

Sunday 6 January 1811. 

Do. Writing long letter to Mr. Ainsworth of Middlewich relative to Middlewich & Winsford Railroad.  Mr. & Mrs. Crompton of Chorley Hall.

Monday 7 January 1811. 

At Stone attending Meeting of Select Committee. Busy Day.

Tuesday 8 January 1811. 

Do. Do.  Returned home late in the Evening.

Wednesday 9 January 1811.

At home.  Engaged on farm & various matters.

Diary of Anne Marsh-Caldwell - age 19

9^th January 1811, Wednesday

The Assembly.

Diary of James Caldwell - age 51

Thursday 10 January 1811. 

Do. Various matters. Letters &c &c

Friday 11 January 1811.

Do  Mr. Butt dined.  Miss Sarah Wedgwood.

Diary of Anne Marsh-Caldwell - age 19

11^th January 1811, Friday

S. Wedgwood, Mr Butt came. (Sarah Wedgwood)

Diary of James Caldwell - age 51

Saturday 12 January 1811. 

At Burslem in consequence of letter received from Mr. Wilbraham respecting Roughwood[?] Mill &c.   Miss Powis

Diary of Anne Marsh-Caldwell - age 19

12^th January 1811, Saturday

C Powys came, Mr Butt went.

Diary of James Caldwell - age 51

Sunday 13 January 1811. 

At home.

Diary of Anne Marsh-Caldwell - age 19

13^th January 1811, Sunday

JSC left us.

Diary of James Caldwell - age 51

Monday 14 January 1811. 

At Burslem again.   Roughwood[?] Mill &c

Diary of Anne Marsh-Caldwell

14^th January 1811, Monday

S. Wedgwood went.

Dairy of James Caldwell

Tuesday 15 January 1811. 

At Alsager.  Water Meadow &c.

Diary of Anne Marsh-Caldwell

15^th January 1811, Tuesday

Cath Powys went.

Diary of James Caldwell

Wednesday 16 January 18116. 

At home.  Farm & various matters.  Rode with Mary.

Thursday 17 January 1811. 

Do. Do.

Diary of Anne Marsh-Caldwell

17^th January 1811, Thursday

The girls, my Aunt from Liverpool.

Diary of James Caldwell

Friday 18 January 1811. 

At Newcastle.  Brewery Lloyds Business Of Birmingham.  Dined at W Bents.

Saturday 19 January 1811.

 At Home.

Sunday 20 January 1811. 

John & Wm. Bents.

Diary of Anne Marsh-Caldwell

20^th January 1811, Sunday

John and William Bent dined here.

Diary of James Caldwell

Monday 21 January 1811. 

At home.  Engaged on farm &c  I this day entered the 53^d year of my age.

Tuesday 22. January 1811 

At home.

Wednesday 23 January 1811. 

Do.  Farm & various matters.

Thursday 24 January 1811. 

At home.  Mr Whieldon relative to the business of Whieldon & Spode & Tomlinson.

Friday 25 January 1811. 

At Stoke attending on Reference Spode & Tomlinson.  Agt.  Brett.  All day.

Saturday 26 January 1811. 

At Newcastle.  Lloyds Business of Birmingham &c.  In the Evening Mr. & Mrs. Crompton of Chorley Hall on their return from London.  Wm. Hawley Butler came to his place.

Diary of Anne Marsh-Caldwell

26^th January 1811

The Cromptons came.

Diary of James Caldwell

Sunday 27 January 1811. 

At home.  Mr. Crompton &c

Monday 28 January 1811. 

Do. Mr. & Mrs. Crompton left us.

Diary of Anne Marsh-Caldwell

28^th January 1811

My Aunts, Miss Harwood and M Garnett.

Diary of James Caldwell

Tuesday 29 January 1811. 

Do. Farm & various other Matters. Miss Harrison & Ann & Bessy from Nantwich arrived.

Friday 30 January 1811. 

Do.  Mr. Daintry & Mr. Ryle of Macclesfield relative to intended Canal by Marple & Peake Forest previous to the Meeting appointed to be held tomorrow at Macclesfield. Long Conversation & Discussion.

Diary of Anne Marsh-Caldwell

30^th January 1811

A and E Garnett.

Diary of James Caldwell

Thursday 31 January 1811. 

At home.  Various Matters

February

Friday 1^st  February 1811. 

Do                   Do

Saturday 2 February 1811. 

At Trentham Inn attending Militia Meeting.  Sr John Heathcote Mr Mainwaring Mr Spode &

Self.  Long & fatiguing day.

Sunday 3 February 1811. 

At home.

Monday 4 February 1811. 

Do.  Farm & various Letters & papers previous to going to Stone tomorrow.

Tuesday 5 February 1811. 

At Stone attending Meeting of Select Committee.

Wednesday 6 February 1811. 

Do.   Do.  Returned home late to dinner.  Found Mr Skerrett

Thursday 7 February 1811. 

At home.  Engaged with Mr. Skerrett.  Mr. R. Skerrett and Mr. Wm. Penlington

dined

Friday 8 February 1811. 

Do       Engaged with Mr S.

Saturday 9 February 1811. 

Mr. Skerrett left us.  Engaged on various matters.

Sunday 10 February 1811. 

At home.  Service &c.  Received letter from Mr. Skerrett with account of the dangerous illness of his Brother the General at Malta in consequence of which I determined to go to Nantwich tomorrow

Mr S. expressing in his Letter a wish for my directions on various points

Monday 11 February 1811. 

At Nantwich.  Long Conversation with Mr S.

Tuesday 12 February 1811. 

Returned home.

Wednesday 13 February 1811. 

At home.

Thursday 14 February 1811. 

Ann & Bessy with Miss Horwood & Mr Garnet left L W.

Friday 15 February 1811. 

Do.  Various Matters & papers.  Particularly the papers sent by Mr. Duckworth relative to assignment of Mr. Barnes Share in the Newcastle Brewery to Mr. Bent.  Very long & requiring much attention.

Saturday 16 February 1811. 

Do.       Do.

Sunday 17. 

At home

Monday 18 February 1811.

Do.  Engaged on papers sent by Mr. Tomlinson relative to the Reference of Colliery matters between Wood & Caldwell & the Executors of Ambrose Gallimore.

Tuesday 19 February 1811. 

At Burslem with such papers & settling Draft of Agreement for Reference with Mr. Wood previous to meeting Mr Tomlinson at Newcastle tomorrow

Wednesday 20 February 1811.

At Parkfields to Dinner.  Mr. Tomlinson did not meet.

Thursday 21 February 1811. 

From Parkfields to Cliffe Ville to have seen Mr Tomlinson on the above business & also previous to making my Award in the matter between him & Mr Spode and Mr John Whieldon but I found that he had gone to Wolverhampton previous to receiving a Letter from me, but was expected at home this Evening.  Called on Mr Spode.  Afterwards to Burslem.  Returned to Parkfields to dinner.  Rev Mr & Mrs Robinson Mr Ricketts Major & Mrs Orange dined.

Friday 22 February 1811. 

Returned home by Cliffe Ville but Mr Tomlinson not returned.  Appointed with Mr Spode to meet Mr T. at Newcastle tomorrow if he returns in time.

Saturday 23 February 1811. 

At Newcastle by appointment with Mr. Bent settling & arranging the Drafts of Assignment

&c. received from Mr. Duckworth.  Also met Mr Tomlinson finally sealing Agreement of Reference & giving instructions for a Dr[aft] of my Award in Whieldons business.  Dined at W Bents.  Mr. & Mrs Furnival & Mr John Gorton previous to his going to South America.

Sunday 24 February 1811. 

At home.  Service &c.

Monday 25 February 1811. 

Do.   Robert Peacock came to his place as Gardener &c

Tuesday 26 February 1811. 

At Burslem.  Colliery Concerns &c &c   In the Evening Mr. Ralph of Halifax.

Wednesday 27 February 1811. 

At home.  In the morning Mr. Whieldon & Mr Godwin with Dra[ft] of Agreement for

settling the matters in difference between Mr. W. & Mr. Spode & Jno Tomlinson with whom engaged a long time perusing & settling the Dra[ft].  Afterwards engaged with Mr. Ralph & on farm.  Got in Wheat Stack.

Thursday 28 February 1811. 

At home.  Mr. Ralph &c &c

March

Friday 1 February 1811. 

At Stoney fields dining.

Saturday 2 February 1811. 

At home.  Mr. Ralph left us.  Engaged on various papers, farm &c

[Page 89] Blank

[There is a gap here.  There are no entries from the 3^rd of March [February?] to the 19^th of May 1811.  Are there pages missing?  NB In May James Caldwell was in London on a deputation to the government and may have been too busy to record entries in his diary.]

[Page 90]

SOUTH WARWICKSHIRE

GRAND UNION CANAL 1770 – 1818

Ref. CR 1709/315

Canal Papers extracted from a larger bundle of plans and papers. Papers enclosed in the Coventry Navigation Subscription Account, endorsed " Navigation Grand Junction" and containing share certificates of Robert Harvey Mallory 1793 – 1814, correspondence about subscriptions for shares in Grand Union and Grand Junction Canals 1814 – 1815.

Receipts for shares 1793 and other papers relating to the same.

We have extracted the names on the various papers, found once again in that ‘treasure trove’ known as Warwick Record Office!

Warwick and Birmingham Canal Navigation, A list of Proprietors who are eligible to serve on the

committee, March 1811

James Caldwell Linley Wood 9

Diary of Anne Marsh-Caldwell

5^th February 1811, Tuesday                                                                [page 52]

[Be, We?] acted the [Houls, Hrouls?] busy as the manager, anxious as the actor, depressed as AC when all was over.

6^th February 1811, Wednesday

My Uncle came.

7^th February 1811, Thursday

Mr R Sherrett dined here.

8^th February 1811, Friday

My Uncle left us.

14^th February 1811

All our party left us taking Louisa with them.

20^th February 1811

I went with Papa, Mama and my Aunt to Portfield. Mr Butt and Congreves dined there.

21^st February 1811

The Oranges, Robinsons and Mr Rickets dined at PF.

22^nd February 1811

Returned home.

26^th February 1811

Mrs Lawton called. Mr Ralph came.

1^st March 1811, Friday

Mama, Papa, HEC dined at Stoneyfield.

2^nd March 1811, Saturday

Mr Ralph went.

3^rd March 1811, Sunday

John Bent dined here.

6^th March 1811, Wednesday

Book sale. Heathcotes.

8^th March 1811, Friday

Assembly. Nigel Heathcote.

9^th March 1811, Saturday

Mrs and Miss Furnivall, Mr, Mrs W Bent, Mr Walthal[?].

10^th March 1811, Sunday

Mr and Mrs B [W?] Bent went.

11^th March 1811, Monday

Mrs and Miss F went.

12^th March 1811, Tuesday

Louisa came home.

13^th March 1811, Wednesday

Mr Wedgwood, Mr and Mrs J.W. dined here.

22^nd March 1811

Mr Finna dined here.

23^rd March 1811

Mr Wood and Mr Tomlinson dined here.

27^th March 1811

Mr Slater came.

28^th March 1811

Mr Slater went.

29^th March 1811

Papa went to Stafford.

30^th March 1811

Papa came home.

31^st March 1811

Mr W. Bent dined.

4^th April 1811, Monday                                                          [page 53]

Eliza, Emma, my Aunt went to Etruria to get plants.

5^th April 1811, Tuesday

Mr Butt and Bayley, Miss Congreves and Wedgwood dined and staid all night.

Northampton Mercury

(Saturday 13 April 1811)

Cambridge, April 5. 

The Rev. Richard Duffield, Messrs William Henry Parry, James Stamford Caldwell, Wm Jowett, and George Francis Holcombe B.A. of St. John's College, were on Monday elected Foundation Fellows of that society; and Mr Thomas Belgrave B.A. was the same day elected a Platt Fellow.

Diary of James Caldwell continues...

8^th April 1811

Miss Wedgwood left us.

10^th April 1811

The Lawtons, Mr and Mrs J Wedgwood.

13^th April 1811

My Aunt, MEC to Nantwich.

14^th April 1811

Mr Tomlinson called.

16^th April 1811

I went with Eliza to Betley

19^th April 1811

We returned home.

21^st April 1811

Edward Crompton, Mr and John Bent dined, walked to Church.

22^nd April 1811

Papa went to London. HS, MEC home.

24^th April 1811

Mama, HS, HEC to Ashcombe.

26^th April 1811

Mama, HS, MEC and I dined at Lawton. (Hannah Stamford, Anne's aunt) (Margaret Emma Caldwell aged 19)

Letter from James Caldwell

To

Mrs Caldwell

Linley Wood

Lawton

Cheshire

Bedford Hotel

Covent Garden

27^th April 1811

I have this moment my ever dear Eliza, received your truly acceptable letter and so I am just going to the House of Commons and am uncertain when I may get back. I write one line lest I should be too late for the Post.

Stamford and Mr Tomlinson dined with us yesterday and Stamford said he had got lodgings for you in Hollis Street, Cavendish which is a genteel and airy situation. He says they are very comfortable and well furnished, at 7 Guineas per week. He will probably write a line by tonights Post. If not, you shall hear from him or me again tomorrow.

We get on very slowly in our business, and Mr Percival seems not yet to have made up his mind on the subject of the proposed Tax. Stamford seems highly pleased with the reception he met with from Mr Abbott, with whom I hope he will be very comfortable.

I was no less so yesterday with Mr Tomkinson, who is a mild gentlemanly and I should think well informed young man. I cannot help having some apprehension that if the Tax on earthen ware should be eventually abandoned, one on coal may be brought forwards, but as this would be almost as bad, so far as relates to Staffordshire, we shall probably have to oppose that.

Most joyfully and tenderly my beloved wife, do I anticipate the happiness of seeing you again. Our meeting is most likely to take place in [hole in letter] unless the Minister should a [wax seal] both Earthen Ware and Coal [wax seal] of Taxation.

Short as this hasty line I cannot [wax seal] stay to write more. Farewell. Receive and I divide amongst all your circle my tenderest and most affectionate remembrances and ever ever think of me as the most grateful and affectionate of husbands and of friends.

James Caldwell

Do pray take all the care you can of yourselves and make every thing comfortable on your journey.

Diary of Anne Marsh-Caldwell

30^th April 1811

HS, JSC, MC, Mama to London.

4^th May 1811, Wednesday                                          [page 54]

Went to Newcastle, called at Stoney fields and Basford.

6^th May 1811, Friday

Mrs Lawton called.

7^th May 1811

John Bent drank tea.

8^th May 1811

John Bent dined.

10^th May 1811

Called at Lawton Hall.

11^th May 1811

Went to the Review, dined at Stoney field, Mr Butt, Captain Jones, M Bent, Mr W and Griffin in the evening.

16^th May 1811

To the Fashions, walked to Basford, went on to Maer.

18^th May 1811

Came home.

19^th May 1811

They returned.

Diary of James Caldwell

1811  May

[Monday] 20 May 1811. 

Received intelligence by a Note from Mr Booth of Mr Perceval having abandoned the Tax on porcelain & Cotton ware.  Calling at Lord Staffords Lord G L Gowers Lord Granvilles &c.  Writing Letters &c packing.  In the E[venin]g in the House of Commons.

Tuesday 21 May 1811. 

Left London.  Arrived & slept at Dunchurch.

Wednesday 22 May 1811. 

Arrived at home.

Diary of Anne Marsh-Caldwell

22^nd May 1811

Papa returned.

Diary of James Caldwell

Thursday 23 May 1811. 

At home

Diary of Anne Marsh-Caldwell

23^rd May 1811

We went to Etruria. Mr Wood dined here.

Diary of James Caldwell

Friday 24 May 1811. 

At Newcastle attending Meeting of Committee when determined that a final Meeting shd be called for Friday next at the Town of Hanley to receive Report of Delegates.

Saturday 25 May 1811. 

At home.  Engaged preparing Resolutions for Gnl Meeting.

Sunday 26 May 1811. 

At home

Monday 27 May 1811. 

At Hanley attend[in]g Gen[era]l Meeting.  Making Report [to a] Numerous & most respectable Meeting.  Great Satisfaction expressed at what had been done.

Tuesday 28 May 1811. 

At Betley Hall.  Mr & Mrs Rick[ets?]

Diary of Anne Marsh-Caldwell

28^th May 1811

They dined at Betley Hall

Diary of James Caldwell

Wednesday 29 May 1811. 

Returned from Betley Hall

Thursday 30 May 1811. 

At Etruria   Hanley &c correcting[?] Reso[lutions] &c &c

Diary of Anne Marsh-Caldwell

30^th May 1811

Mr and Mrs C Lawton called

Diary of James Caldwell

Friday 31 May 1811. 

At Newcastle to get Copies of Resolut[ion]s

June

Diary of Anne Marsh-Caldwell

31^st May 1811

Mr Butt came.

Diary of James Caldwell

Saturday 1 May 1811. 

Engaged writing Letters to Lord G L Gower Mr Bootle Mr Roberts & Mr Gordon & Mr Barr.  In the afternoon at Burslem.  Sent of Reso[lution]s.  Letters &c &c

Diary of Anne Marsh-Caldwell

1^st June 1811, Saturday                                                           [page 55]

They drank tea at Burslem. Mr Butt went.

Diary of James Caldwell

Sunday 2 June 1811. 

At home  Mr Spode & Mr Bent dined

Diary of Anne Marsh-Caldwell

2^nd June 1811, Sunday

Mr Bent and Mr Spode dined.

Diary of James Caldwell

Monday 3 June 1811. 

At Lawton Hall.  Afterwards at Newcastle.  Returned to dinner.

Tuesday 4 June 1811. 

At home.  Perusing papers delivered to me by Mr C Lawton.  Engaged on farm

&c &c

Diary of Anne Marsh-Caldwell

4^th June 1811, Tuesday

My Aunt, MEC, MC to Matlock.

Diary of James Caldwell

Wednesday 5 June 1811. 

Mr C Lawton relative to unsettled Accounts between him & the Trustees for sale of the C Late[?] Estates.  Went with him to Lawton Hall.  Engaged greatest part of the Morning perusing & considering papers & advising him previous to his atten[din]g a Meeting at Manchester for finally closing these Acc[ount]s.

Thursday 6 June 1811. 

Mr Bent Mr Blunt Jno Blunt & Mr Chas Lawton dined

Diary of Anne Marsh-Caldwell

6^th June 1811, Thursday

Mr Blunt and John, Mr Butt.

Diary of James Caldwell

Friday 7 June 1811. 

At Trentham dining with Mr Butt

Diary of Anne Marsh-Caldwell

7^th June 1811, Friday

We dined at Mr Butts, Eliza to Hartfield.

Diary of James Caldwell

Saturday 8 June 1811. 

Was to have met Sr Jno Heathcote at Hardings Wood Locks relative to a Basin & Bridge lately erected but prevented by violent storm of thunder.  Mr Tunstall afterwards called.  Long Conversation with him.  Afterwards writing to Mr Robinson.

Sunday 9 June 1811. 

At home.  Service.  &c

Monday 10 June 1811. 

At Hardings Wood Lock meeting Mr Tunstall at ½ past eight viewing the premises &c.  From thence to Burslem.  To Newcastle attending Militia Meeting for Ballot for Deserters & balloting accordingly.  Mr Spode & Self.  Giving directions for sending out the printed Cases & Resolutions on the porcelain & Earthen ware business.  Returned home to dinner.

[Page 92]

Tuesday 11 June 1811. 

At home.  Engaged on farm & various matters.

Wednesday 12 June 1811.

At home.  Writing Letters.  Col Destrowe[?] for Carless Discharge from Staffordshire Militia &c

Thursday 13 June 1811. 

Engaged in the Morning in the Grounds, thinning plantations &c.  At Stoney fields dining.  Spode, Sneyd, Northern & Capt Jones.  Birmingham Journey postponed.

Friday 14 June 1811. 

At home.  Farm &c &c

Saturday 15 June 1811. 

Do

Sunday 16 June 1811. 

Do.  Service &c.

Monday 17 June 1811. 

At Newcastle in consequence of Letters from Mr Spode & W Bent to have consulted relative to County Election but Mr Spode prevented coming.  Mr Chas Lawton & W Penlington dined.

Tuesday 18 June 1811. 

At home.  Mr & Mrs Wood & Family came to dinner.

Diary of Anne Marsh-Caldwell

18^th June 1811

The Woods, M. Eliz, Emma and Mrs Wilson.

Diary of James Caldwell

Wednesday 19 June 1811. 

Do.  Engaged on various matters.

Thursday 20 June 1811. 

Do.  Mr Brettel & Mr Thos Wedgwood dined.  Mr Chas Lawton & Mr Jenna[?] relative to the purchase of Swallow Moor & Stonecliffe Woods & other Lands when agreed with Mr Lawton with the approbation of Mr Fearn as follows.  I pay 3500 for Swallow Moor & Stone cliffe Woods & one acre of the Wood callow[?] the Ditches and to be at liberty to take as much more of such Land as I chose at the rate of £100 P acre.

Diary of Anne Marsh-Caldwell

20^th June 1811

HEC (Hannah Caldwell) returned. Mr Buttel

Diary of James Caldwell

Friday 21 June 1811. 

At Burslem with Mr Wood.  In the Evening Mr Skerrett

Saturday 22 June 1811. 

At home.  Mr Woods family.

[Page 93]

Sunday 23 June 1811. 

At home.  Service &c.  In the Evening Mr Woods family left us.

Diary of Anne Marsh-Caldwell

23^rd June 1811

Diary of James Caldwell

Monday 24 June 1811. 

Began Hay Harvest.

Tuesday 25 June 1811. 

At Trentham Inn Attending Appeals Property tax.  Mr Mainwaring Spode & Self.  Afterwards dined at Thorney fields with Mr Spode & Mr Tomlinson relative to County Representation.  W Bent returned with me to Linley Wood.

Wednesday 26 June 1811. 

To Macclesfield where Mrs W Bent & Eliza had gone yesterday.  Meeting Mr Holland Mrs Samford & Miss Gorton.  Dined at J Gortons

Thursday 27 June 1811. 

At Macclesfield.  All dined together at the Hotel.  Mrs Trusler & Miss Antrobus of Congleton

Friday 28 June 1811. 

Returned home.  Miss Coape Miss Dumeresque & Miss Smith dined at L Wood

Diary of Anne Marsh-Caldwell

28^th June 1811

Mrs Dumaresque Coape and Smith dined, loveliness.

Diary of James Caldwell

Saturday 29 June 1811. 

At home.  Bring in the Hay.

Sunday 30 June 1811. 

Do Mrs Wm Bent & the Boys who returned in the Evening

July

Monday 1 July 1811. 

At Stone attending Meeting of Select Committee.  Mr Sparrow & self.  Returned at night,  fatiguing day.

Tuesday 2 July 1811. 

At home.  Engaged on various matters previous to setting off tomorrow to Shrewsbury.

Diary of Anne Marsh-Caldwell

2^nd July 1811, Tuesday                                                            [page 55]

Went to Nantwich with Eliza.

Diary of James Caldwell

Wednesday 3 July 1811. 

To Shrewsbury with W Bent & J Gorton

Thursday 4 July 1811. 

At Shrewsbury busily engaged all day on these affairs.

Diary of Anne Marsh-Caldwell

4^th July 1811, Thursday

Drank tea at Mr Sprouts [?], dance at Mrs Gunshers [?].

Diary of James Caldwell

Friday 5 July 1811. 

Do   Do  At night received by the Post Account of the increased illness of my beloved Mary.

Diary of Anne Marsh-Caldwell

5^th July 1811, Friday

Dined at my Uncles.

Diary of James Caldwell

Saturday 6 July 1811. 

Left Shrewsbury early arrived at Stoney fields to dinner where I awaited the Arrival of the Post, & returned with Louise to Linlye Wood at night.

Diary of Anne Marsh-Caldwell

6^th July 1811, Saturday

Play, saw Miss Parsons in Isabella.

Diary of James Caldwell

Sunday 7 July 1811. 

At home.  John Bent on return from Macclesfield.

Diary of Anne Marsh-Caldwell

7^th July 1811, Sunday

Walked with Miss Mainwarings [?] to Dorfold cottage.

Diary of James Caldwell

Monday 8 July 1811. 

Do.  Busily engaged in the Hay.

Diary of Anne Marsh-Caldwell

8^th July 1811, Monday

At Mrs Garnetts.

Diary of James Caldwell

Tuesday 9 July 1811. 

Do

Diary of Anne Marsh-Caldwell

9^th July 1811, Tuesday

To Mrs Clarkson’s, went to see the farce of the Bechia

Diary of James Caldwell

Wednesday 10 July 1811. 

Do.  In the Evening Mary & the Party returned from Matlock.  The former in a very indifferent state.

Diary of Anne Marsh-Caldwell

10^th July 1811, Wednesday

At Mrs Thomas Garnetts.

Diary of James Caldwell

Thursday 11 July 1811. 

Dined at Lawton Hall.  Mr Gilbert & Mr Wm Penlington but very unhappy on account from[?] poor Girl who had had a bad night & was today very ill.

Diary of Anne Marsh-Caldwell

11^th July 1811, Thursday

Diary of James Caldwell

Friday 12 July 1811. 

Mary better.  Mr C Lawton & Mr Jones relative to Title to Swallow Moor &c &c when it appeared that it would be necessary to apply to Parliament to enable Mr L to make a good Title & Mr Jones agreed to write to Mr White on the business.  Mr Blunt & John came to dinner.  Ann & Bessy with Eliza & A C arrived from Nantwich.

Diary of Anne Marsh-Caldwell

12^th July 1811, Friday

Returned with my Aunts in haste, Mary ill.

Mr Blunt at Linley Wood.

Diary of James Caldwell

Saturday 13 July 1811. 

At Newcastle in the morning.  Brewery.  Returned to dinner.  Wri[t]ing[?] Letter.

Sunday 14 July 1811. 

At home.  Service &c

Monday 15 July 1811. 

At Burslem.  In the evening Mary worse, in consequence of which determined to send to Dr Darwin & request his attendance, & directed John to set off very early in the Morning.

Tuesday 16 July 1811. 

At home.  Various matters.  Mr Blunt & W: Bent called.

Wednesday 17 July 1811. 

Dr Darwin arrived between nine and ten o’Clock this Morning.  Long and attentive inquiry and consideration of her Case, which to our bitter anguish of heart, he finally said he thought such as to afford no hope of permanent relief.  Of this truly calamitous case

Thursday 18 July 1811. 

At home.  In a state of mind easier conceived than expressed.

Friday 19 July 1811. 

Do.  Mr Skerrett arrived from Nantwich.  Mary better.

Diary of Anne Marsh-Caldwell

19^th July 1811

My Uncle came.

Diary of James Caldwell

Saturday 20 July 1811. 

Do.  Engaged with Mr Skerrett &c &c  The like.  Entirely finished the Hay & small part of which only had been cut for the last 5 days.

Sunday 21 July 1811. 

Do.  Mrs Wm Bent dined.  Mr Skerrett left us.

Diary of Anne Marsh-Caldwell

21^st July 1811

Mr W [?] Bent dined at Linley Wood, my Uncle went.

Diary of James Caldwell

Monday 22 July 1811. 

At Trentham calling on Lord & Lady Stafford: but did not see them as they were gone into the Park.  In the evening Stamford arrived.

Diary of Anne Marsh-Caldwell

22^nd July 1811

JSC (James Stamford Caldwell) came from London.

Diary of James Caldwell

Tuesday 23 July 1811. 

At home

Wednesday 24 July 1811.

At Burslem.  Various matters.

Thursday 25 July 1811. 

At home.  Mr Wood & Mr Thos Wedgwood dined.

Diary of Anne Marsh-Caldwell

25^th July 1811

Mr Wood and Wedgewood dined at Linley Wood.

Diary of James Caldwell

Friday 26 July 1811. 

At Newcastle.  Brewery &c.  Mr W Penlington dined.

Saturday 27 July 1811. 

At home

Sunday 28 July 1811. 

Do  Service &c  In the afternoon at Alsager

Monday 29 July 1811. 

Do.  Various matters.

Tuesday 30 July 1811. 

[No entry]

Wednesday 31 July 1811. 

[No entry]

August

Thursday 1^st August 1811. 

[No entry]

Friday 2 August 1811. 

[No entry]

Saturday 3 August 1811. 

[No entry]

Sunday 4 August 1811. 

At home

Monday 5 August 1811. 

At Burslem.  In the evening Mr Tywell[?] arrived.

Diary of Anne Marsh-Caldwell

5^th August 1811, Monday                                                                   [page 56]

Mr Tyrrol [Lynch?] came.

Diary of James Caldwell

 Tuesday 6 August 1811. 

At Newcastle attending the Races.

Diary of Anne Marsh-Caldwell

6^th August 1811, Tuesday

First Race day, a good Ball. Mary ill. Aunt B staid with her.

Diary of James Caldwell

Wednesday 7 August 1811. 

Do    Do

Diary of Anne Marsh-Caldwell

7^th August 1811, Wednesday

Second Race Play, the Honeymoon. Sat by EP [CP?]

Diary of James Caldwell

Thursday 8 August 1811. 

Do    Do

Diary of Anne Marsh-Caldwell

8^th August 1811, Thursday

Diary of James Caldwell

Friday 9 August 1811. 

At home. A & E, C left Linley Wood

Diary of James Caldwell

Saturday 10 August 1811.

At Burslem with Mr Tywell & Stamford.  In our absence Lady Stafford & Lady Charlotte Leveson called at Linly Wood.

Diary of Anne Marsh-Caldwell

10^th August 1811, Saturday

Lady Stafford, Lady C Gower called.

Diary of James Caldwell

Sunday 11 August 1811. 

At Newcastle inconsequence of a Note from W Bent relative to Jno Bent being placed at Shrewsbury.

Monday 12 August 1811. 

Mr & Mrs Crompton breakfasted on their way to Bath.  At Aqualate.  Elizabeth, Eliza, Ann Stamford & Self.

Diary of Anne Marsh-Caldwell

12^th August 1811, Monday

Mr Lynch went. To Aqualate, Cromptons breakfasted here.

Diary of James Caldwell

Tuesday 13 August 1811. 

Returned from Aqualate leaving Stamford.

Diary of Anne Marsh-Caldwell

13^th August 1811, Tuesday

Returned, called on Mrs Thomas.

Diary o

f James Caldwell

Wednesday 14 August 1811. 

At home

Thursday 15 August 1811. 

At Stafford Assizes

Diary of Anne Marsh-Caldwell

15^th August 1811, Wednesday

Jos Wedgwood, Eliza, Mrs [Drewe Stoned?] dined here.

Diary of James Caldwell

Friday 16 August 1811. 

Do  Returned home

Diary of Anne Marsh-Caldwell

16^th August 1811, Thursday

They left us

Diary of James Caldwell

Saturday 17 August 1811. 

At Burslem.  Various matters.  Mrs Stamford &c set off into Scotland.

Journal Diary of Anne Marsh-Caldwell on holiday in Scotland

17^th August 1811, Friday

I left Linley Wood with my Aunt and Eliza on a tour to the Highlands. We proceeded by Manchester, Chorley and Preston to Lancaster. I have travelled this road before on which there is little to observe, there are some fine views of the Nibble in the road between Preston and Chorley.

Diary of James Caldwell

Sunday 18 August 1811. 

At home

Journal Diary of Anne Marsh-Caldwell on holiday in Scotland

18^th August 1811, Saturday

We walked to see Lancaster Castle, the ancient part was built by John of Gaunt, of this a large square tower remains. The Castle has been repaired by Wyatt and contains the prison and courts. The view from the hill is very fine, but the morning was too unfavourable for us to enjoy it. The Church is old and in the inside there is a carved screen worth looking at. To Kirby Lonsdale 10. Very fine views of the Lune and the wooded hills that surround it. There is an aqueduct near Lancaster well worth seeing. The Yorkshire mountains form a fine horizon, the whole of the way, the approach to Kirby is very beautiful and nothing can be finer or more uncommon than the view from the walk near the Church which overhangs at a prodigious height the close and finely wooded valley of the Lune. It is really glorious. The road to Kendall is mountainous. The approach to the town very pleasing, the Castle a green hill in the neighbourhood has a good effect. The road to Bownes 7, is over wild mountain heaths, in some places finely broken with rocks and shrubs, the first [coup d oed?] of Winandermere [Windermere?] is not striking, it was nearly dark when we arrived on its banks.

Diary of James Caldwell

Monday 19 August 1811. 

[No entry]

Journal Diary of Anne Marsh-Caldwell on holiday in Scotland

19^th August 1811, Sunday                                                                  [page 58]

We took a boat and by the clear light of a blue and early smiling morning and in the soft air of 6 o’clock enjoyed a most delightful row to Waterhead. The lake is a fine expanse of water and the banks finely wooded and cultivated, the water broken by innumerable islands where the light shrubs wave and week over the water which breaks into the thousand bays of [their?] rocks on which they grow. The mountains at the head of the Lake are fine and their crossing and varying lines give a beautiful termination. I was in enchantment but to me morning when it is fine lends a luster amounting to deception to all on which it shines. We proceeded to Ambleside, then by a lovely ride to Rydale Water, very very beautiful, winding among the grass and shrubs at Rydale Hall, there is a very pretty waterfall of exquisite coolness. Grassmere is well wooded. I rather preferred however, the dark solitary melancholy aspect of Wyburn [Wythburn?]. Through fine glens by Helvellyn we reached Keswick and here the rain and clouds came on so darkly that the glorious view from a hill before reaching the town was quite obscured. The lake must be fine, the point of the mountains that break into it are so bold. [Skedding?] stands at a small distance and appears high and dark, the clouds were rolling in [fleeces?] round it, an effect peculiar to mountain scenery and more remarkable than sublime. Went to a stupid [?] museum, a dull man dragged us through a wet field to see what we saw very well before. Through rain we went to Penrith, from the high hill ascended from Keswick there is a fine view looking into the valley in which lies Bassenthwaite and down upon Keswick. On the dreary road to Penrith one only object was worth remembering, it was where the road was almost destroyed by a water spout which had ploughed up the road and washed away a bridge. Near Penrith the country is wooded and well cultivated but in large plains. This gives to all the country on this side near the border a peculiar appearance. I fancy it is not an anciently enclosed country and centuries elapse before the appearance of barreness is erased. To Carlisle, we went in the twilight and dark, the road is over green commons, very dull.

Diary of James Caldwell

Tuesday 20 August 1811. 

Mr & Mrs Crompton of Chorley Hall.

Journal Diary of Anne Marsh-Caldwell on holiday in Scotland

20^th August 1811, Monday

From Carlisle to Longtown through a flat and scantily wooded country, from thence Langholm 3 ½ miles, from Langholm enter Scotland by two tollgates, the rest of the road is along the finely wooded dale of the Esk. The banks are steep and covered with trees and shrubs that hang over the river [remaining foaming?] over rocks and pebbles and bridges thrown frequently over it which from the shade of the waving[?] branches are peculiarly romantick. Pass Netherby Hall and Carobie Lea, the scene of the Ballad of Lochindar. Also Gilnachie Castle, the residence of Johnnie Armstrong, a strong square building. The road to Hawick till within a few miles lies entirely among the Cheviot which are merely green hills of no beauty or wildness, many of them cultivated with cabbages, turnips and potatoes. Near Moss Paul there is a fine view looking back to England, this we omitted seeing. A few miles from Hawick enter Teviot-dale. It bears no comparison with Esk-dale being little wooded and the glen not sufficiently filled by the river. Branxholm is a long white house only remarkable by an ancient tower, something like the points of the houses in Cheshire. Near this the Borthwick joins the Twist. We passed Goldilands, a cannon’s tower on a height commanding the dale. And up to Harwick, this town is evidently ancient, one bridge at the back of the inn is very picturesque. In this first Scotch town I was struck with a general air of discomfort. The houses have small windows fixed inwards, more of the bay windows one sees to shops in England, the appearance of the people in the dark and dirty looking plaids was rough and mean, but heavy rain perhaps contributed to render this first aspect of Caledonia disconsolate. To Selkirk over a dreary moor. We passed a deserted burying place. There is something in the mournful solitude of a grave far from all living friend or mourner, an entire oblivion where every name is forgotten, that strikes a certain string of my heart in a tone most melancholy. Selkirk is wretched. In this part of the country however agriculture seems in a tolerable state of improvement, the turnip husbanding is particularly neat, the plough here holding the horse in reins, and in lieu of teams several carts drawn by one horse, the hindmost fastened to the cart before are in use. From Selkirk to Melrose, there is little of beauty, the Tweed so fair in song has here barren banks. Melrose stands upon a promontory, well wooded, the Abbaye is not at all fine, from a distance, indeed it has almost a grotesque appearance.

Diary of James Caldwell

Wednesday 21 August 1811. 

[No entry]

Journal Diary of Anne Marsh-Caldwell on holiday in Scotland

21^st August 1811, Tuesday                                                                 [page 63]

We went early to see the ruin and indeed it is magnificent, the remains I should think of the Church only. It is ornamented to an exquisite degree of minuteness but so finely proportioned that there is no heaviness. The pillars rise “lofty and light and small” and the Arch of the chancel from it height and delicacy is of exquisite beauty. We went up to the top and walked through the galleries that run round the [huth?] of the church, the view from this is the most beautiful. It is astonishing the infinite delicacy with which all the parts are executed, even at the tops of the towers, one may almost compare it to nature, perfect every where and not adorned merely for superficial observation. There is a tradition here of the principal parts and plans coming from Italy, at least so far as a traditionary story founded on this circumstance may be called so. The same exist at Roslin and seems to confirm Barry’s theory on the origin of Gothic Architecture. A beautiful but tremendous ride by Galla water and the pretty village of Gallashiels leads to Middleton, thence to Bank House. Bank House proceed to Edinburgh, some miles from the capital are very fine views of the Pentland Hills and the mountains of Fife Shire and the Salisbury Craigs and Arthurs Seat behind. Edinburgh, here we diverged to Roslin. Borthwick Castle is seen at the distance of square towers, great solidity and little beauty. Dalhousie is a fine place, very well planted. The village of Laswade is prettily situated but a great air of discomfort about the women and children. The women do a great deal of hard work in the fields and in consequence are rough and course looking. Roslin Chapel is in perfect preservation except the altar and the figures of the Saints which John Knox destroyed. The architecture is ornamental to excess, but it is without taste or proportion and the whole has a heavy gloomy effect. Here I saw Bassorchinos used in the cornices, historical subjects were represented but not certainly in Italian sculpture. The Castle stands upon a high rock over hung with shrubs and the situation is remarkably fine, it must have been of prodigious strength, the rooms that still remain entire, which we saw, appear menial apartments and the only light comes through loop holes for the archers. Above there is a good deal entire which is still used as a dwelling house but we did not go into them. The Linn is not worth going to see on this side the river as the rocks hide the best part of the fall[?]. The walk down the glen is very fine, much resembling Matlock [Maltock?] on the opposite sides are the caves of Northornden, vast excavations used as places of concealment in ancient days of ruin. It was too far for us to get at them. I believe they are light by a [communication?] through the roof. Roslin is one of the professed Lions of Scotland, but is not in any single feature equal to many less famous things. The country as you approach the capital is distinguished by the complete want of that gay luxuriant peopled appearance that in general marks the approach to a large town, there is not a spot in the Cheviot more cold and barren looking than some views from the road within a few miles of Edinburgh present. It is true there are trees but they are all ill compensating for the general barreness. Here there are none [swathed?] by “Nature free and Boon,” over the country, the fields are enclosed by stone walls and once or twice I looked from the carriage window without seeing a shrub. There are many magnificent mansions, about 6 or 8 miles from the town, but no trim boxes and neat gardens, that retreat of commonplace opulence which gives an air of gaiety to the country. The Queen of the North sits yet in gloomy grandeur surrounded by her noble Barons but with none of the luxury or gaiety of inferior trade to enliven or degrade her. The roads present no bustle, all is quiet and lonely. The suburbs are really wretched. It was now dark and as we left these miserable dwellings and entered the High Street it was like the change of enchantment – houses of prodigious height finely lighted, brilliant shops, bustle and confusion in the street and the sound of the Bagpipe playing national[?] airs with the new delight of curiosity in a new capital entirely gratified gave a feeling of animation and pleasure that I never felt before. We passed quite down this noble street, crossed North[?] Bridge by the Register Office and entered St Andrews Square. We alighted at Dumbucks Hotel.

Diary of James Caldwell

Thursday 22 August 1811. 

At Trentham Inn meeting Col Chetwynd & Capt Treganny[?], Local Militia Ballot

Journal Diary of Anne Marsh-Caldwell on holiday in Scotland

22^nd August 1811, Wednesday                                                           [page 67]

We devoted the day to walking about the town. It is divided by a wide depth called the North Loch though entirely without water into the old and new town. the New Town is built in perfect regularity both with respect to the plan of the streets and the elevation of the houses which are all of fair white stone. The streets are very wide and flagged and in consequence of the descent of the ground each one commands views of a fine surrounding country to which the wide extent of water in the Firth and the bold heights of the neighbouring mountains give peculiar beauty – in this respect if it had no other superiority Dun-Edin would surpass all towns I have ever seen to enjoy the dread magnificence of nature in the bosom of a capital is a privilege her inhabitants possess alone. Princess Street lies along the North Lock and is a mile long, the Bond Street of the place while on the ground floor perhaps above and below are the St Giles’es and the Monmouth Street of the place the plan of building upon flats obtains every where and adorns the outside while it defiles within. At the top of one of these magnificent stone houses may often be found every form of dirt and squalidness. The Register Office is at the end of this Street as you approach the North Bridge, it is a magnificent stone building. The squares in Edinburgh are not proportionate in grandeur to the streets, nothing equal to the finer squares in London. The old town is in direct opposition to the new. The High Street alone is regular and disappointed me this morning. All through there is the narrowness of old streets and their accompanying dirt and closeness, the houses are all irregular and dark looking and many (anxious cchpa ?) interesting for each has its story are seen among them. We then went upon the Catton Hill, those who have seen Barkers Panorama have a complete and exact picture of this view yet still how inimitable is Nature the effect is entirely different. Here is a monument to Nelson constructed in the same messiah taste that pervades like a fatality all the honours lavished upon him. Humes monument may be seen, it is plain.

HH joined up before dinner.

(three lines crossed out thoroughly – maybe be heavy writing ‘.. never do..)

In the evening we walked again about the New Town. One of the most agreeable parts of Edinburgh is the confidence and liberality of its inhabitants, that confidence which allows young girls to walk as in a country town, and that liberality which does not confer (gentility crossed out) respect according to the carriage but the person. Chiefly of small fortune and refined taste the people have learnt to distinguish between wealth and consequence. The town is at this season thin and the carriages very remarkably few. Nor does the general air of the better classes equal the elegance of London rank but then there is nothing in the lower orders that the least recalls the meanness, pertness and affected superiority of London cockays to use an immense vulgarism. The people in the shops have a manner perfectly insinuating.

Diary of James Caldwell

Friday 23 August 1811. 

At Maer Hall.

Journal Diary of Anne Marsh-Caldwell on holiday in Scotland

23^rd August 1811, Thursday                                                               [page 70]

We employed the morning in a walk to Leith. This side of the town has more the air of trade than the southern, though I should think it but small. Leith Walk is edged on each side by small shops like booths, the people here are mean looking creatures and there are many beggars but these I understand are chiefly Irish. Leith is like all little ports, wretched, dirty and noisy and exactly what I most dislike. The tide was out but from the Pier there is a very fine view down the Firth and of the opposite mountains of Fife Shire. We returned home and then walked down again to see the 42^nd embark for Tilbury Fort. I expected to see a good deal of national enthusiasm on the occasion here, however I was disappointed that enthusiasm I fancy is too often but imagined. The Regiment however were well worth seeing, a finer set of men I never beheld, the dark expressive countenance, the serious dignity of the Gael strongly contrasts with the common place of common countenances and the waving black plumes that give infinite grace to their appearance and the (nature?) and the national dress conspire to make it a fine and uncommon spectacle. There were some women weeping bitterly and friends walking arm in arm for the last time. From what I saw I should imagine an embarkation for foreign service the most affecting sight in the world. Sir Sidney Smith was here, his countenance is dark and pleasing rather than heroic, his figure small and square. I saw him very near, he seemed much interested in the Regiment. The Scotch mob however did not seem moved with the warm enthusiasm with which an English one greets a hero, he rode home with little notice. English phlegm is nothing to Scotch frigidity.

In the evening we called to the Castle, it is now converted into Barracks and stands upon a perfectly insulated rock, a finer ands stronger situation I never saw but I lost the opportunity of examining the view, a Scotch band charmed me into the court of the Castle and there I remained till a thick mist rendered the Birdseye view of the town indistinct, the Castle stands at the head of the North Lock and commands both the old and new town. I forgot to mention that at Leith we went into the Fort and an officer obligingly shewed us the Barracks. I was delighted with the neatness, cleanness ordered  (densaway?) that pervaded every part, each room contained about ten or (twelve?) beds which are boarded with boards as white as snow and on which is a mattress which rolling up like a bolster (leaves, turns?) a comfortable seat. Over his bed each man has his accoutrements suspended. Each set of men have their different mess sufficient to (lay?) a pound of meat each a day is subtracted from their pay and the meat is divided with great fairness among them. The Officer goes round at dinner time to see that all is right and to listen to any complaints that may be made. His was a corps of artillery. We went and saw the horses the ordinance and cars for the men all in beautiful order. We saw a Cannonade of 13 pounders which is of (rough?) it can only be loaded with a 16lb of powder, the weight of gt ball, and therefore does not carry so far as it might. 12 pounders are the guns most in use and are loaded with a 12 lb of powder. Paul Jones took this fort in his time.

Diary of James Caldwell

Saturday 24 August 1811. 

Returned from Do

Journal Diary of Anne Marsh-Caldwell on holiday in Scotland

24^th August 1811, Friday                                                                    [page 73]

The morning proved rainy. H. Holland took us to the Society’s rooms to see the islandic (Icelandic?) specimens. Sir George McKenzie joined us here, plain in his dress and manner as the wisest philosopher, he appears to have greatly too much good humour and gaiety to waste upon mineralogical pursuits. As the specimens were collected chiefly with a view to geological discourse they are little interesting to me. And the views which we saw cannot from the nature of the country be either beautiful or curious to an unscientific eye. I amused myself with looking at Riddels comparative view of the mountain and was surprised to find how greatly the eye is deceived in heights. I was likewise astonished to find how low Vesuvius and how high Etna ranked in the scale.

We took a coach and went to Holyrood through the Argate (Cowgate?) and other old streets. Holyrood lies at the west of the old town, it is a large and magnificent building forming a hollow square, on one side is the chapel entirely in ruins. We first saw the Grand Council room where the peers for Scotland are now elected. It is hung round with the pictures of all the Scottish kings, a few only of the later ones are portraits. Here is one of poor Mary that has been much defaced by Cromwell’s soldiers when quartered here. This really seems to make it more interesting, one would fancy her in tears. There are many fine portraits in the suite of apartments you afterwards pass through. One of Darnley, a weak looking tall thin man, two most lovely pictures of Nel Gwyn and Jane Shore. One of Mary in mourning. The bed chamber is too well pictured in Robertson to need an inferior attempt. The furniture of all these rooms in the french taste seem to prove the fondness with which Mary remembered and retained every trace of that nation where all of her life she only was happy. In a work box of the queen’s own embroidery we were shewn a portrait painted with exquisite delicacy but a copy only and with little character or expression. No portrait here gives the least idea of the lovely face represented by a print in some of the (cobhous?) Humes England. I don’t know where the original is. On the table in the room where she supped on the fatal night was some armour of a weight which almost staggers the belief of its ever being worn. In the apartments appropriated to the French Princes we saw a portrait of the Duchess D’Angouleme which I cannot and will not believe like her, so fat so flat, so contented a countenance would destroy all the interest of its story. There is here a good portrait of Madame Elizabeth painted by a German lady. I say good for they say it is very like and many would say beautiful for the details are executed with infinite delicacy, but there is no character and no grace and to tell me a feather is so very like a feather you might mistake it for one is to excite in me little admiration and no pleasure. A print of the Prince de Conde interested me a thousand times more. Here we saw a picture painted by Madame Elizabeth in the Temple, the interest of the story would blind the eye of criticism in tears but it does not require partiality. In Lady E Murray’s apartments there are some pictures worth looking at. In Lord Bredalbone’s none except the monkey faces of the Royal family of Denmark may be called so. As I walked home with Stamford we passed the gate way through which Montrose passed. I am little affected by the historic passion and can tread renown places without emotion but at this place through which the greatest of heroes passed to mockery, to disgrace and death my heart swelled within me. In the evening we went to the Play. The theatre is a temporary one, the company were neither well dressed nor well looking, but the best of Edinburgh is in the country, yet I felt interested as many book(?) names were amongst the audience. The performance was wretched. As we came out we were introduced to Jeffrey. I was much struck with the intelligence of his countenance, his easy eloquence, the gallantry like of his manner and the brilliance of his descriptions, this man I am sure is clever and he is the first I ever was sure of.

Diary of James Caldwell

Sunday 25 August 1811. 

Set off to Birmingham with W Bent in the business of Lloyd & Co

Journal Diary of Anne Marsh-Caldwell on holiday in Scotland

25^th August 1811, Saturday                                                                [page 73]

We were obliged again to make us of a coach which prevents those views of a town that alone make one well acquainted with it to Sir Harry Moncrieffs Kirk where we heard a Mr Dickson. The place was perfectly plain as a meeting house in England. A tall man with dark hair unassisted by responses or even by notes began a service which the solemnity of the preacher, the silent attention of the people and the warmth and good sense of the discourse rendered more impressive than any service I have ever heard. He had a voice which most would call bad, to me it was awful, his whole air appeared was tucked(?) and drew attention entirely devoted to the holy office in which he was engaged. He gave a sermon and after that a discourse illustrative of it. The singing is led by the Clerk, all the congregation join and the double galleries give the voices a singular and pleasing effect. It reminded me of that attributed to Coselles cradle movement of flights of angels singing in the air the tone rising and falling with their ascending or descending motion. Afterwards we went to hear Alison. He is a favourite here. I was greatly disappointed, the discourse was common place, the delivery feeble. I never saw a more attentive congregation.

Diary of James Caldwell

Monday 26 August 1811. 

At Birmingham.  When determined to state a Case & take the opinion of Counsel.  Came in the Evening to Shiffnal

Journal Diary of Anne Marsh-Caldwell on holiday in Scotland

26^th August 1811                                                                                [ page 78]

We breakfasted at Mrs Fletchers, Sir B Boothby was there, the conversation was literary and rather bright, but that brightness was evidently produced by effort and had nothing of the sunshine which affords (some words crossed out) melts the icy fetters of mauvais fionte and makes conversation free and fluent. It was also too much on the give and take system of flattery and I wanted a certain politeness which gives inestimable charm. But those who sit by without partaking of a feast of this kind are rather unfair critics. It determined me never to pressure upon being anything not even upon what I appeared to have the fairest claims. To disappoint with the smile of self approbation c’est joner un personage trop indienle.

Afterwards we walked about the town. Went into the parliament square which is in the old town in the centre a statue I have forgot of whom. We went into a house, the building of which was indeed favoured by the inequality of the ground where we stood, it was 7 stories above and 7 below us.

We dined at Woodhouselee, Lord Woodhouselee’s, we were received and entertained with the finest hospitality, everything seemed exerted for the happiness of the received and not to gratify the ostentation of the receiver. Here I had alone the opportunity of viewing the refined and polished Scotch, the style of the house and table was in general the same as in England, the manners had the perfect simplicity and heartiness of former times with the refined polish of the present, I thought them very inimitable.

Diary of James Caldwell

Tuesday 27 August 1811. 

Proceeded to Shrewsbury.  Engaged at the Brewery all day & came in the Evening to Hawkestone, bringing John Heathcote along with us.

Journal Diary of Anne Marsh-Caldwell on holiday in Scotland

27^th August 1811                                                                                [page 79]

We left Edinburgh with H.H. The road lies through a well cultivated and wooded country, the Pentland hills form a fine horizon, pass Middery Castle, the form a plain square with the remains of lighter buildings at the top. This form which must make them impregnable is universal all over this part of the country. The Ochill mountains lie at some distance to the right. A nobleman some thirty years ago got silver enough out of his lead miens in these hills to make a service of plate. At some distance from Linlithgow the palace appears, it is situated at the top of a hill hung with wood and at the bottom a small loch. As we walked to the palace a shower of rain sent us into the first Scotch cottage I had entered. There was every thing of dirt and discomfort and confusion that can be imagined. There is a fountain stands in the street of a very ruinous construction bit it is not ancient, being the exact copy of one that stood there before it by a man with one hand. The palace is built round a square and appears to have been constructed at different times. One part was built by James the 6^th. The building is rather magnificent than pleasing, the architecture is of a very mixed kind. The ruin of the (Pasban?) chamber is fine and the chamber which is shewn as the one where unhappy Mary was born commands a very pretty view of the Loch below. The church is of the simple unornamented Gothic. Here you are shewn the place where the spectre appeared to James 4^th. We observed the curious custom of painting black tears upon the pillars near a grave which disagreeably reminded me of the flames painted on the dress of the victims of the inquisition.

From Linlithgow to Sterling you pass through Falkirk and then enjoy one of the loveliest views in the world for all the rest of the way everything most beautiful in nature conspires to adorn the lovely valley through which the Forth runs, a luxuriant country well cultivated and wooded, bounded by most noble mountains and watered by a magnificent river with various ruins scattered here and there which much improve and add the charm of association to nature. This country must long have been cultivated, there is an appearance of great antiquity about the enclosures, gateposts &c. Pass Bannockburn of which there is no trace, and the Carron iron works smoke away about a mile from the road, but strangers are not permitted to see them. The approach to towering Sterling is very fine, it was moonlight when we arrived and instantly went to the castle, built on a rock of gigantic sized height and commanding the entire country as far as Edinburgh on one side and (Benventichor?) the other. A scene unequalled by imagination, unrivalled by reality, the most glorious and perfect landscape of extent that the eye can behold or the heart conceive by a clear bright moonlight that gave even the distance, it is impossible to give an idea to those who have not seen it, those who have will need no remembrancer.

Diary of James Caldwell

Wednesday 28 August 1811. 

Met Sir John Chetwode.  Long Conversation relative to County Repre[sentation]  Dined at W Bent, having occasion to write to Sir John & letter which Sir John had received from Mr Wolseley being desirous to explain myself more fully than I had done in our Conversation.  In the Evening returned home.

Journal Diary of Anne Marsh-Caldwell on holiday in Scotland

28^th August 1811                                                                                [page 82]

Early in the morning we left Stirling for Callander, before setting out however, we again went to the Castle. The morning was dim which prevented our seeing the very fine horizon of which Ben Ledi a distinguishing point. We mistook the road and took a very dull one as far as Doune(?), the right one lies by Blair Drummond, the seat of Lord Hames. At Doune there is a castle beautifully situated, it is much in ruins but appears considerable. The road from hence to Callander is interesting, leaving cultivation at Blair Drumond enter upon a wild country. The Leith dark broad and rapid runs often near the road and adds much to the beauty of the scenery. Callander the first mountain town we entered is built in a long kind of street, the houses are small but neat looking. We alighted at an excellent inn, but wanting in many things that we esteem in England indispensible. After breakfast we passed over a fine wild country to the Lochs. Some cottages that we passed were the most wild and desolate habitations that it ever entered into the heart of man to imagine. Loch Venachar is long, wide and gloomy, the mountains on the opposite side towering(?) and barren, and here it began to rain with a violence which obscured every beauty and left us to guess with grief and impatience what the rest of these lovely lakes might have been. Lock Achray with its wild and weeping underwood is soft and lovely. Before we entered the Trossachs we stopped at a wild place built by one Stewart for the accommodation of travelers. I did not go in which I regretted afterwards. I like to confess the truth, the truth is then that the Trossachs disappointed me. And Lock Katrine herself was so entirely different from what I expected that surprise and disappointment were upper most in my mind. Unaccustomed to mountain scenery I had expected something more gigantic and awe striking in the rocks and more beauty and verdure in the trees and banks. The mountains that bend round the Loch appear piles of rocks and stones and heath and underwood all thrown by the wild hand of nature in confusion. The lake is long and the view down it very fine but we were not in the boat two minutes before it began again to rain with intolerable violence. We clambered up a steep woody bank to a little rock house and there sat starved and shivering till it was time to return. This Stamford and I did by coasting the lake to the road and here could I but have looked with pleasure wet and weary as I was I should have seen some of the loveliest views in nature. The large island, the bay and promontory are so beautifully wooded and broken. The Trossachs is a deep defile between rocks not as is perpendicular but enormous heaps of broken rocks, heaps that in the (vois?) of the giants might have been hurled towards heaven and fallen there. Stamford and I walked home. It was a dreadful walk, the mountain torrents foaming from the hills make the road almost impassable and the labour was incredible. Fear of passing these precipices in the dark and an ill defined wish to walk all the way led me on. The result was extreme fatigue and a determination never to do so absurd a thing again. But the excessive kindness of the naked footed highland women when they put me to bed, the softness of their tones, the tenderness of their expressions and their careful watchfulness gave me an opinion of the Gaelic character which I hope I shall never forget. The road to Loch Katrine is rough and tremendous. These lakes here but lately been discovered to travelers thirty years ago, the inhabitants in their vicinity imagined the Stewarts were still on the throne of Scotland. At Callander we saw all the children in kilts.

Diary of James Caldwell

Thursday 29 August 1811. 

At Burslem.  Colliery & other matters.

Journal Diary of Anne Marsh-Caldwell on holiday in Scotland

29^th August 1811

Leaving Callander we proceeded to Loch Eamhead. The way lies up the pass of Lennie (Leny?). The entrance is formed on one side by the majestic Ben Ledi. Swollen by the rain the Firth ran foaming down the narrow pass swift as an arrow dashing and breaking amid the rocks in one continual succession of waterfalls, overhung by brush wood and wild Horns(?). Stamford got us down the steep descent and placed upon a little point that jutted into the torrent. I beheld one of the most beautiful forms of river scenery but the deafening noises and rapid motion of the flood before me made the price of pleasure dizziness and alarm. Farther up the pass the road leads by Loch Lubnaig, surrounded by mountains covered with oak and the little valley well cultivated, a scene of great pastoral beauty. They were making hay, we only saw women at work who were tossing the grass about with their hands. In this valley is the house where Bruce wrote his Abyssinia. The wood all here abouts is chiefly oak and appears like small shoots from larger trees cut down. It is impossible to imagine anything more truly and uninterruptedly picturesque than the scenery here, the face of nature, the cottages, dress and manners of the inhabitants, the very cattle and dogs all are wild and romantick.

As we approached Loch Eamhead the country became more wild and barren and almost entirely divested of trees. Loch Eam is a lake of great extent but the mountains surrounding it are not particularly bold nor wooded. The village is wild and the house was uncomfortable, in my bed room there was a hole through the wall which admitted both light and air sufficient to starve me completely. The rest of the party went to see a waterfall in Lord Bredablanes grounds. I was too ill to stir.

Diary of James Caldwell

Friday 30 August 1811. 

At Stone attending Select Committee

Journal Diary of Anne Marsh-Caldwell on holiday in Scotland

30^th August 1811                                                                    [page 88]

We left Loch Eamhead and travelled along the side of the lake for about seven miles to its terminus. We passed Dun Ira, Lord Melvilles prodigious plantations have been made and the situation is truly beautiful. We breakfasted at Comrie at a new inn. From thence we walked to Lord Melvilles grounds and up a beautiful glen to see a cascade called the Devils Cauldron. A narrow cleft in the rock down which the river bursts like a torrent of snow foaming against the lofty sides of the barrier. The Creiff is 4 miles from Comrie and seems a considerable Highland town. Here is a fine view towards Perth, or rather a view down a fine cultivated shaft, rather comfortable than lovely. After leaving Crieff there is a remarkably fine view from a hill looking down on the grounds of Ochtertyre, Sir D Bands. The country now becomes one barren track of mountain moor with nothing of beauty to distinguish it until by a tremendous descent the road at once enters Glen Almond. Two frowning mountains, black and barren cast their shadows upon the entrance rendering it still more gloomy and terrific. All is dark and lonely, no living thing, no waving tree, nothing but the sound of the footsteps and the running of the river there all alone undistracted and unvisited his Ossian a green mound and a huge stone surrounded by a turf wall moat his low and lonely urn. “As I thrown myself on the grave of the mountain poet here reposing peaceful in their bosom, I almost longed for a grave like his amid the solitude and quiet of the desert.”

Leaving the glen and passing a few scattered hamlets and another barren moor we reached Anblane, one of a few wretched houses (adrift? Draft?) in this unpeopled waste, but unpeopled as it appeared it is not so in fact. At this inn were preparations made for a hundred people to celebrate the taking home of the bride after some months marriage. The woman of the house told us that the disorder would be too great to allow her to think of letting us sleep there. I went into the room and saw the splendid set out of plates and wooden spoons for the guests. The old people she told us would sleep in the house and the young ones shelter in the barns. We were therefore obliged to proceed to Dunkeld. The country must be fine at the latter part of the ride but it grew too dark for us to observe anything.

I am sorry to find on reading Mrs Grants translation of the Gaelic poem of the owl, that their traditions (turns? Sums?) against the opinion of Glen Almond being the place of Ossian’s tomb.

On the turret of Famisi sit where the returning sun points his last beam upwards to the summit of the hill.

I look on the end of Lock Trieg.

 The sheltering rock where the chair(?) was wont to be,

I see the dark lakes dim at a distance,

I see the mighty pile and many coloured mountain.

I see on the deep vale the last dwelling of Ossian of Fingal.

I see the Hill of flat sepulchral stones.

It seems to me from Lock Laygan and Craig Guanich it would not be possible to see the Mountains of Glen Almond though the description so well agrees.

Diary of James Caldwell at Linley Wood

Saturday 31 August 1811. 

Do

Journal Diary of Anne Marsh-Caldwell on holiday in Scotland

31^st August 1811                                                                                 [page 91]

The inn here is delightful, more clean and every comfort as complete as most of the best inns in England. We had a letter of introduction to Mr Irvine, the Minister. He came to us after breakfast. A man of wit, sense and observation. He walked all round the grounds with us.

Dunkeld lies in a deep valley watered by the Tay and surrounded by high mountains, one of which Birnam road(?) as some one says has never recovered its march to Dunsinane. Over the Tay the Duke of Athol has built a bridge which cost him £32,000 of which £4,000 only was allowed by government and the tolls do not exceed £5 or £600 a year. Before this it was a ferry. Fine woods of larch, fir and oak come sweeping down the mountain sides into the Tay. They are chiefly planted by the Duke of Athol. It is computed that if every tree allowing 1 in 3 for accidents were valued at 4d they would be worth £9 millions. These trees are many of them planted among inaccessible crags where the planters were obliged to be let down by ropes. This is certainly making a prodigious profit upon the land for the mountain ground lets only for about 2d and sometimes not quite a farthing an acre but the (cause?) in the valleys lets from 3£ to 4£-100. The Duke spent one year £100,000 pound though his income does not exceed £40 or £50,000 per annum. There are 50 miles of walk in the woods and 4,000 people kept in employ. The first object worth notice was Ossians Hall, it is a building in the french taste which hangs over a fine wild foaming cascade bursting over broken rocks interspersed with shrubs. There is not a (boise?) exhibition of taste in Britain. We walked through shady and beautiful paths to the (tumbling, rambling?) Brig a full over which a bridge is thrown, it is out of the Duke’s grounds, it is a very fine cascade. As we walked back through the woods I saw a doe. They are plentiful here and quite wild but seldom to be seen after the dew of morning is off the grass. Mr Irvine took us to a high hill in the grounds commanding a magnificent view. At the foot of mountains cloathed with broken wood flows the Tay down a finely cultivated valley full of fine oak trees, the walk we took home by the side of this enchanting river exceeds in beauty anything of the kind I have seen. We saw a prodigious oak tree, magnificent of size, age and extent. As we came to the inn we passed the house which was poor. In the lawn are two larch trees, the first ever planted in Scotland and which were originally in pots put into the green house. Now they cloathe the bleak mountain tops.

We proceeded to Blair Athol, the road lies along a valley magnificent by its mountains and beautiful from the Tay running all along it. There is one remarkably fine view where the Tummel falls into the Tay. It is twenty miles from Dunkeld to Blair. This road the Duke travels twice a year with all his followers including cattle herds &c. Mr Irvine had given us a letter to a Mr Stewart Merchant at some village, its name I forget, in order that he might direct us to the falls of Tummel. We found a (intelligent crossed out) shrewd Scotchman in a little shop, behind the counter of which he stood and talked with the ease of a man of letters which I find he was. His son, a handsome young man elegantly dressed prepared to be our guide. As we waited for him I stood at the door sketching the people who were chattering Gaelic all round me. There was a fine wild girl on horseback and several old highlanders but they seemed none of them to like either my spectacles or my pencil. Leaving the horses to bait we went on to Faskally (Fascalli), the Bridge of Garry and Falls.  The young man told me that corn was got in there sooner than in the Lowlands because there was less rain. All who can afford it send their children to be educated at Perth. The character(?) of the (Eise?) language is difficult, he said his father could write it but there were few in the village besides him who could. He told me too that they had a great deal of poetry in their language “that woman’s husband that you spoke to was a poet.” Faskally is a very fine place, it belonged to Colonel Butters, he died early and the house stood deserted. There is nothing equal to the desolation of fine grounds run to ruin. By a most charming walk along the Banks of Garry and over its romantic bridge he led us through woods and braes to the falls of the roaring Tummel. These falls are not high but the body of water is very great and burst impetuously over the broken rocks. An amphitheatre of mountains and woods behind contribute greatly to its effect. We climbed a high hill to see the junction of Garry and Tummel. Stamford and I went on too fast and got lost in the woods and fields, we came to the twilight and silence, I can not describe the loneliness of the situation, however we walked on and scrambling over walks and hedges at length reached the bridge. Here we joined our party but heard the carriage was gone on – by mistake. I think I never was more astounded. We stood at the entrance of Killicrankie in the dusk, without the hope of stopping the carriage or getting forwards and when Stamford and young Stewart sent back to the place where it was left in hopes to meet with it, and we were alone, my heart quite sunk within me. The Pass of Killicrankie is a road along the side of a mountain which plunges down to the river Garry. On the other side rises one still steeper clothed with wood to the rim. By this light the depth appeared tremendous and the gloom indescribable. The carriage at last joined us and we proceeded to Blair through this (temous, famous?) pass which the dimness rendered still more striking. At Blair we found very tolerable accommodation.

Letter Anne Caldwell (?0 to Mary Caldwell, August 1811

Miss M Caldwell

Linley Wood
Nr Lawton

England

Post Mark 31^st August 1811

By a Peat fire at a Highland Inn on the banks of Loch Ness I begin my first letter to my dear English Mary half tired and half sleepy back with my poney still warm from the delightfull scene I have enjoyed. Today we parted with H.Holland who came with us to Callander and thence to Lock Katrine and now he is going back to [Eton?] and we are arrived here. Scotland is indeed a fine country such a glorious confusion of rock and wood and torrents swollen and running after the rains of yesterday as far exceeding expectation. Every scene may be called truly picturesque, though I hate the term. The cottages are wild, the dress of the peasantry and the air in general uniformly striking. I will not attempt, after Scot, to give you an idea of Lock Katrine, it is truly fine but we saw it in the most dreadful and unhospitable [umpitrable?] rain I ever was out in. To say the truth I was a little disappointed. I think it anything but what Scot has described it and the [Jcosacks?] of FitzJames’s journey do not in the least resemble these. There is not a place in the Lady of – [Lake?]but we have seen and we must not forget Sterling Castle. We came there late on Tuesday night but determined to run up and like a glove by moonlight it appeared the finest thing in the world. The forth lakes a thousand winchings in a highly cultivated valley which reaches to Dun Edin boarded by a fine outline of mountains and of a range of these I must just tell you that a gentleman about 40 years got Silver enough on his own estate for a Service of Plate (HH). You told me much of the charms of a mountainous country but it was nothing to reality. I know you hate descriptions but how can I help giving you what is constantly dwelling upon my mind. Monday, the day before we left Edinburgh you know we went to dine at Woodhouselee. The Tytlers may truly be called a charming family for there is a charm in every thing round them. In the grounds, the house filled with pictures, windows ornamented with flowers and looking upon delightful views, a most agreeable old man [Alexander Fraser Tytler, Lord Woodhouselee] at the head, an amiable woman for his wife and a family of the most artless affectionate Scotch things you ever saw in your life. We saw two daughters, a boy of about 16, most intelligent and agreeable (is not this wonderful) and a little cousin and a little [young?] who nobody make out. And in consequence of the extreme good nature and [bienveillance?] of their reception had a very pleasant day. I wish Papa knew Lord Woodhouselee. They would suit, I think, excellent. I heartily wish for an opportunity of returning the great kindness they have shewn us.

Monday [26^th August 1811] morning we breakfasted at Mrs Fletchers and met Sir [Brooke] Boothby there. The Lady appears clever and has a good manner, rather than good manners. It is a misfortune to know that one is renowned for being agreeable, this gives a little the appearance of intention in what she says. As for Sir B, he is certainly very pleasant and had he not chosen to write himself down for an ass I declare I should never have suspected him of being one. He told us some good anecdotes of Madame de Stael and the German Literate with whom he seems reasonably well acquainted. Upon the whole I do not much enjoy the conversation of professed agreeables, just perhaps because I feel a little put out and second because it is not a give and take conversation but rather a stage upon which [town a town, turn a turn?] every one makes his speech, is applauded and retires to give place to another speaker, where all play the part of audience but the actor for the minute and therefore where all praise highly in the hopes of being praised in their turn[?]. Though [Jeffery, Jiffing, suffering?] is a [wit, bit, not?] professed [from,form?] this let me except him the little I saw and kind filled me – with delight he seemed to speak much; from the rapidity of his thoughts and feelings it was not cold exertions for the sake of conversation but warm ideas that would be expressed. His descriptions ever vivid and a [lively, bawdy?] his remarks very lively and every word conveyed some picture to one’s mind. Now do not laugh – and say I am [more, done?] away with. I partly own I am and the man who by the mere force of conversation in a quarter of an hour can make so strong and [partial?] an impression must have ‘le don de’l’eloquence’. Sir G Mackenzie [Travelled with Holland to Iceland 1811]is a good natured lively Geologist but these earthly philosophers are very flat I think upon all subjects but their own trade. They are always – looking downwards. Henry Holland took us on Monday to Ballantynes shop. I was much diverted with the celebrated Booksellers conversation. He gives a high character of the new [Edin arm?] Register but then he is the publisher. He talked very much in the style of the Booksellers in novels. The same peculiar and ready strain of wit and satire upon the unfortunate race of authors.

Sunday [25^th August 1811] we went to Sir Harry Moncreiff’s Kirk. A Mr Dickson preached without any outward ceremonies to inspire devotion, without any assistance from music or architecture, without much elocution by the mere force of serious devotion and plain simple and undisemptive prayers which came from and spoke thoughts to the heart. He commanded my attention more than any preacher I ever heard and made inattention indeed almost impossible. The service consisted of prayers rather short. Psalms in which the congregation joined without any instruments. A sermon and a lecture upon the application of the sermon which as well as the prayers were extempore and pronounced with the utmost fluency in very excellent and simple language. – Mr Alison is reckoned a most admirable preacher when he take his text[?] the eyes of all the auditors are fixed upon his pulpit and every one appears moved and attentive. So much for a name. Had he not had the name I am grieved for the sake of my good taste to say I should never have remarked his discourse so much as to have asked who preached it. Mrs A is a daughter of Dr Gregory, the woman teacher and lived with Mrs Montague, the letter writer whom she offended by preferring Mr Alison to her nephew and after their marriage Mrs A wrote the book upon taste to justify her choice. In spite of Louisa’s showman I should be tempted to cry out Edinburgh is the finest place in all the world. The new Town struck me much more than London. It is laid out on a very [clear?] plan. The houses all of stone and perfectly uniform and in consequence of the descent of the ground at the ends of the streets you have delightful views of the Firth of Forth and the Fife shire hills. The streets are very wide and owing to the system of Flats you may see a cobblers board in a house finer than many in the best streets of London. The old town is dirty to a proverb with narrow streets and houses sky high. We went to one in Parliament Square so [contrived, constructed?] that on one side it was fourteen stories high though on the other only seven. Here we are in the Highlands with a pair of horses that are to carry us all our tour as there is no posting at these inns. The places themselves we find comfortable and the people are the unsinuating civil ever times. At Callander we were waited upon by two most kind hearted women but who were too economical to wear shoes and stockings. We had some cloathes washed and the women assured JSC that as soon as they were toasted she would surely buy[bring?] them. Great boys of 14 are to be seen in kilts or Feillabags. (I don’t know how the spell it) and they talk Gaelic here very commonly. At Callander who should we see but Mr S Smith who has been through Scotland with Mr A Hinchly. Well, my dearest dear is not this a letter for you and I have not said a word of my dear home and friends that all the wits and all the wilds of Scotland will not make me ever forget. Thank you for your kind letter and messages. We shall not alas hear again till we get to Inverary. Goodnight, keep well and continue to write. Best love to all from all and I am ever your affectionate AC.

[heavy black ink] I would give a good deal my dear Mary to know [when, where?] you are going next and it is a grievous thing that we cannot now till tomorrow week. I was [sorry] I forgot to write down the directions from my - - wrote I think you understood that the glass was to be - - of an inch all the new glass to be put as - - it will go in part and to unfinished in the same manner with it but put of the old to be – the old man at Mr Nathans?

Diary of James Caldwell

Sunday 1^st September 1811. 

At home.  W Bent dined.

Journal Diary of Anne Marsh-Caldwell on holiday in Scotland

1^st September 1811, Sunday                                                               [page 96]

After breakfast we sent for the gardener and saw the Grounds. The house is poor but one storey was batter’d down in the rebellion. There is little natural wood and that chiefly Birch. Beyond Blair the country stretches into deer forest, vast tracks without a tree upon them where the Red deer live for they shunt the covert. The Duke has a forest 90 miles in extent to perfect which he destroyed 100 small farms. This indeed seems a needless destruction of comfort, the poor people go to Glasgow or some large town or emigrate. A large deer forest seems a great boast. At this time of the year the deer keeps(?) in their sanctuary and only come out to feed at night. The sleeps in a circle, fawns and does in the centre (Herts?) to each point of the compass, two stand up as guard. When they feed one as leader stands apart and stamps with his foot to sound the alarm. The last wolf was killed in Scotland 120 years ago in the pine forests of Aberdeen. Every Scotch estate has its glen, the one here is most beautiful. The river Tilt runs down it, as clear and as yellow as the finest amber. With every shrub of the mountain (feathering?) down the sides of the broken rocks two pretty tho’ small cascades, one belonging to Colonel Robertson is very fine. The pleasure grounds are chiefly laid out in the French taste, vistas, statues &c. We walked down to the house and went into one of the offices to see some stags that had just been killed. When the Duke goes to hunt nearly 100 men are sent all about to rouse the deer, he conceals himself in the hush-wood and shoots at them as they pass. We saw two fine dogs between the grey hound and mastiff. The same as the dogs of Ossian. At the house an open table is kept, any gentleman who wishes to dine there sends his name, pays his compliments, and sits down. The gardener was a humorist, and I think a bit of a Jacobite. He said there was many a good Jacobite heart yet among them. There is an old bed rid man that fought at the battle of Culloden. He is nearly Bedfast but his heart will rise at the mention of it, he never thinks he has got satisfaction for it yet doesn’t that man. The Highlander he said, with fair play would have beat the English, but Lord G Murray sent three of the best clans a hunting the Grohson(?) a Fools errand, McGuires, McDonalds, McGregors. The Jacobites all go to the Church of England meeting house. Father and son at the rebellion usually took different sides at all events to secure the estate in the family. This ought to be a lesson to all leaders of such enterprises, that a bold stroke must be struck at first to secure the calculating party. Nothing ever in this case is gained by delay and everything lost by retreat. A first success and a character of good fortune must be on the side of an invader or it is impossible he should gain anything. Mr Irvine told us that the 42^nd was a most favourite regiment here about and (the Marquis of Hartly crossed out) it is called the Black Watch, being originally raised to watch thieves. Promotion from the ranks is very common in it.

Leaving Blair we came back upon our steps as far a Logierait. I did not find Killicrankie quite so fine as I thought it the night before. Being Sunday all the Highlanders were in their best cloathes. The girls (set?) their hair tied up with hoods(?). These are ribbons, generally brown or black crossed round the head and tied on one side and were the ribbons less universally old and shabby would have a pleasing effect, but in general I must say there are few feasts in England I have seen where men, women and children are so universally well and respectably dressed. At Logierait we crossed the Tummel which is here an impetuous torrent and though it was in boats is rather tremendous. A beautiful evening and the scenery very lovely. The two little boys who assisted the ferry man were uncommonly fine lively children and one of the men was the handsomest I ever saw. The country all about here is well cultivated in corn which is ripe here sooner than in the Lowlands. We passed through Strath Tay to Weem, all this country very well cultivated and peopled.

Diary of James Caldwell

Monday 2 September 1811. 

Do.  Unwell

Journal Diary of Anne Marsh-Caldwell on holiday in Scotland

2^nd September 1811, Monday                                                             [page 100]

Left Weem which is a very comfortable house, I was a good deal amused with our visitor, a boy of fifteen or sixteen in his kilt. On our way to Kenmore we stopped to see the Falls of Moness near Aberfeldie. In my opinion the most beautiful we saw, they break from a great height down the glen over hung with every variety of underwood and formed by the broken rocks into all forms of waterfall. Kenmore stands exactly at the last end of Loch Tay, and is a decent village. The inn comfortable. Lord Breadalbane’s property lies all round to the extent of many miles, his place, Taymouth is close to Kenmore. Here the Tay falls into the Lock. The woods are very fine, of the water it is needless to speak, but a vile french taste has done its best to spoil these noble works of nature. There is a bridge where the river flows into the Loch from whence the view is most beautiful. JSC and I stood here sketching for some time for the day was delightfully warm and sunny. I was much interested with the curiosity of a swarm of children just let loose from school who were pushing round me and twitching my paper to see what I was at.

After dinner on our road to Killin, we went to see the Fall of Acam in a glen of Lord Bredalbane’s (Breadalbane). Here is a rude root house built and hung with skins of wild cats, foxes, deer &c. Those of the former were of an astonishing size. From a window the view falls full upon the cascade which breaks from a dark cavern hung with oak and birch at the top and falls in one full dash to the bottom. When the torrent is swelled the effect must be wonderful but now it was divided into two streams and showed the rock between. We got, with some difficulty, to the bottom where the effect is still finer. Returning to the carriage I observed two women without shoes or stockings and their petticoats held above their knees washing in a tub with their feet. The ride all along this Loch Tay to Killin which stands along the other end, is most extraordinarily beautiful. By the time we reached the end of it the sun was gone down and the sky formed a golden relief to the dark black giant mountains that rose on all sides. As we turned to Killin we seemed entering into their bosom and the effect was awful beyond description. About a mile from the town, by the light of a full moon we crossed two broken bridges over the wildest rocky torrent in nature, all (bruised?) torn and in confusion and by this twilight appearing still more broken and confused. The effect was melancholy for we seemed to be come to a world in ruins. At Killin we had very tolerable accommodations. I was struck this day with seeing a less comfortable appearance among the people, less of dignity in the character of the men and more of squalidness in the appearance of the children who were opening the gates for pence. But one girl threw nuts into the carriage and when I offered her money said “I did na want that.”

Diary of James Caldwell

Tuesday 3 September 1811. 

Do   Do  Engaged on papers Lloyd & Co

JC’s diary ends here for 1811

Journal Diary of Anne Marsh-Caldwell on holiday in Scotland

3^rd September 1811, Tuesday                                                  (page 103)

Mr McDougal, the Minister, breakfasted with us, he was a civil man with some faint traces of the beau lurking under his rusty black coat but there was nothing of the senses and spirit of Mr Irvine. He took us by a most agreeable walk up a mountain behind Killin from whence is a very fine view of the lake. At the foot of this I found the Spina Salicifolia. On our return we found several pieces of rock chrystal at the inn to be sold which the boys find or knock out of the rocks. They wished to pass them for Cairn Gorms but these properly are only found on the mountain of that name. As we passed the torrent and ruined bridge leading out of Killin my again on our way to Tyndrum I thought it much less striking than by the moonlight. We went to see the burying place of the MacNabs, but I saw little worth looking at. It consisted of four walls forming an oblong which was unroofed. There was a rude curious carving over the door. I looked through a window into it and could see no traces of anything like monuments. Soon after we left Killin we entered a wild desolate country without habitation or having animal to break the unvaried extent of heath and hill. It seemed as if we had passed the confines of the habited world and entered upon a heathy desert. some miles from Killin on the left observed some ruinous remains. Stone pillars with a kind of white triangular had to them. Farther on, on the right in the centre of a lovely little lake is an island cloathed with waving shrubs, are the ruins of St Killan’s Monastery. The mountains of this wilderness are majestic and give a grandeur and interest to barrenness and desolation. I observed the roots and remains of large trees in the bogs and imagine this has been once a fine forest. Tyndrum stands almost alone in this dreary waste. The accommodations are certainly far from inviting but still are tolerable. Our beds were in two cupboards in the sitting room. There was incessant noise and confusion during the night.

4^th September 1811, Wednesday                                                        (page 104)

We left Tyndrum before breakfast intending to stop at Inverarnan, our road lay through the same desolate scenery, the mountains unceasing in majesty as we advanced. A little before we reached Inver I saw a small lake on which grew a considerable number of fir trees. The house we at last reached was a wretched hut. And to complete our dismay at its appearance the only room was occupied as a bedroom by two gentlemen shooters. We got a little bread and milk, good enough and the strangers sent us a brace of moor fowl to console us. Then we wandered over hill upon hill through the same fine wild and craggy region “where mountains upon mountains hurled the ruins of an earlier world.” There is one dark large called the black mountain, particularly fine. At a distance we saw Ben Nevis, the highest mountain in Scotland. Till we reached a lone house where all was dirt and discomfort and got a wretched breakfast. Kings house is16 miles from Tyndrum. While the horses rested Eliza and I tried to get to the foot of a mountain that was close by. I was quite surprised at the deception. After walking a very long time we found ourselves to all appearances just as near as when we set out. The ground we travelled over was boggy and stony with dry tufts from one to another of which we skipped along. There seems no hope of its ever being cultivated. There were cows however, feeding. After travelling a mile from King house we plunged by a steep and almost impracticable descent into the deep gloomy pass of Glenco. Prodigious mountains far above the clouds hang threatening over the entrance and closing it all round at their feet runs a little river and round it a few cultivated enclosures. Here in the bosom of the mountain was the horrid massacre committed that stained the reign of William forever and here with the Highlander we are tempted to execrate the man who drove the Stewarts from their throne. Were it possible to describe the sublimity and terror of this magnificent scene I would try to hold it up to my memory. The crows and birds seemed flying at the foot of the towering cliffs every now and then we fancied we heard the scream of the Eagles which build here but we saw none. All the rest was perfect unbroken silence and repose. In the middle of the glen the river forms a little lake. Passing by this the road takes a turn and then the glen opens to a cultivated wooded valley which was all smiling in the evening sun. Little shrubby hillocks and gay green of the fields contrast so admirably with the darkness and honor of the Glen behind, that I am tempted to call this beautiful surprise the best worth seeing of any scene in Scotland. This enchanting valley terminated on the shores of Lock Leven. After passing through so many miles of the barren solitude of heathy mountains it was no little pleasure to come again to a world of cultivation. I felt as if I was almost surprised to find houses and people employed as usual beyond this barren tract. Here at the head of the lake is a considerable slate quarry and a small vessel was lying before it ready to take its cargo. All this gave an air of business which formed a very pleasing contrast. We went about a mile up the lake. On the banks a good many scattered cabins. We stopt at Ballychulish where is a ferry to the Inverness side of the lake and a tolerable inn. A strange kind of landlady with more of the Irish than Scotch character about her made us very welcome. The house smelt shockingly of Fish but in other respects was comfortable, at least as well as we could expect here. The views all this evening when the sky behind the dark mountains was red with the setting sun were most beautiful. At the end of the Loch are the mountains of Marvein, the forms are very fine.

5^th September 1811, Thursday                                                (page 108)

A lovely morning. We walked a good deal about Ballyhulis, all here about seems very well peopled. The inhabitants carry on a considerable fishery of one my judge by the number of nets drying on the shore. This is a salt water loch. The tide was gone down which a good deal spoiled the effect. After leaving Bullychulish the road we took lay by the side of the lake, the views all down which are most magnificent and beautiful. When we arrived nearly at the end we crossed a small angle inland and came upon the shores of Loch Lennhe. This lake is very broad with several large islands. The opposite shore is composed of fine rugged mountains with tops above the clouds. All this by the blue expanse of morning light on a very clear day, the mountains tented with the most (glorious crossed out) lovely variety of colours formed the most delightful view in the world. On the shores stands Appin House, Marquis of Tweedale, grounds fine, the situation is incomparable. Pretty nearly opposite to the island of Lismore I saw an old castle built upon a small island perhaps a hundred yards from the shore. Its size was larger than those I have usually seen in Scotland. We now again travelled inward for a short time and then came to the shores of Loch Creran. Here there was a ferry of a mile broad to cross. We were soon placed in a little boat and two fine handsome (gaels crossed out) youths, wild and spirited and active were in with us and we were across in a moment. On the banks on both sides stood too very neat looking white (have? Houses?) and the man who had the direction of the ferry spoke English perfectly but the others were all truly Gaelic. I was much amused with the scene for the large boat happened to be on the other side and they lighted a fire to signal for it. On the southern shore I sat down to sketch and looking to the side we had left saw the loveliest scene that can be described, the banks were finely wooded from the serene expanse of water and the mountains behind them melted into all shades of colour and distance the softest liens of mingled blue and pink under a fine calm heaven. I indulged the most delightful feeling of admiration mingled with surprise to find myself in this far distant land among foreigners and strangers. Children gathered round me and threw a profusion of nuts into my lap. While I was sitting here a boy of genteel appearance came riding along on his little poney, and as he waited for our ferry boat entered into conversation. He came from the lakes in Inverness shire, was by his dress, appearance and manner a perfect gentleman, and gave us a good deal of information about the adjacent country. He had been from Connel Ferry that morning and was to cross at Ballychulish and return home that day. His dress seemed to have been selected by a careful mother, but the independence with which he and his poney travelled alone is either a proof of general good sense in the management of boys of condition here or of individual good sense in his parents. He gave us some specimens of the vitrified forts (fosts?) after which we were very curious. After long waiting they at last get us the carriage over, we took leave of our intelligent companion who dragged his horse into the boat, chattering Gaelic to the women and children. One of these I remarked an old ragged looking cantingfarning(?) creature so unlike in all respects to the general spirit of the people that I suspect she must be Irish but what she could come to this poor place to cant and fawn for I cannot guess. We left Loch Creran and after some miles and passing the grounds of General Campbell beautifully situated on a high promontory came to the shores of a spacious bay at the head of which stand the remains of Heregonium. I know nothing and can learn nothing of the nations who possessed these gigantic remains. They seem buried in eternal oblivion and have left the work of giants to perpetuate their existence. About the breadth of a turnpike road from the sea rises what appears a huge cliff shaped into forms of (mole?) towers and bells, at the top is grass and the ground rises in artificial terraces one above the other and in the centre is a break as if for an entrance. This is what is called the tower, about a hundred yards to the North of this following the bend of the shore stands a single rock communicating with the other by a paved road. At the top this too is grassy. We clambered up and found here the remains of the vitrified (fools, tools fosts?). The only appearance of building was stones about the height of six inches from the ground placed in an hexagonal or octagonal form. Pieces of the vitrified stones were scattered, however, all about. What this substance is, whether artificially or accidentally formed is yet an undecided question. We could find nothing remarkable here besides. The ground was perfectly flattened where the (fost, fort?) was and the sides very steep. This is supposed to have been the castle. When we came to examine the sides of the great rock we found it entirely composed of pebbles and pieces of stone in a white bed which looked very like mortar. I think this must be an artificial substance though the work is so enormous, vast heaps of the same material had fallen off and lay on the shore. If this be really a human work it is the labour of a powerful people. These were no tribe of wandering savages but a collected society. I have been able to meet with no account of this place, or of the nation by whom it was formed. The situation is admirably chosen, commanding the fine bay and the adjoining country. I much regretted the lateness of the evening which obliged us to proceed before I was half satisfied. As we went on we saw many remains of trenches in the flat but of these my memory now gives me no distinct idea. At Conal Ferry on the shores of Loch Etive we found a neat house newly built. Here there was no bread but good biscuit. This is the first time we found the want of it though we were often at the last loaf. Bread is conveyed into these solitary parts by the post man, who travels on foot generally, therefore the supply cannot but be small.

Letter inserted on page 109

Miss Caldwell

Linley (neat italic handwriting)

Adelaide (visited?) but not at home. (note under address)

Now pleasures; a pleasure purchased with pain hurts. God in the world who sees all. He is strong who conquers himself. His is a friend who helps in unfortunate things. Who are endowed with virtue are (along crossed out) only rich plu (people?). He is not safe who all hate, the man is ungrateful who does not return/recompense a benefit, who does not know to be silent, is not able to talk. His father is foolish, who hates him without cause whom he did begot. He is a citizen who loves daily his country. Who is it if she (who?) may admire the splendour of virtue. Justice is the virtue by who good men are called. Nothing is lasting(?). Love of the the/ones country conquers. What is more base than avarice. (Compassitifs when explained by gran take May? Mary?). He is always to be watched. Death is certain, time uncertain. We know God by the works of his. All spring from whence they are born. The world is juena (?) with the – of God. All are full of fools. One death expelty awaits all.

Oh lordy lord where are thou, is what scene of all extending nature is they place, art thou with God and happiness indeed , or art thou slumbering in the quiet grass, all ignorant of tears awaits for the shout of resurrection to evoke thee and dry these drops forever.

6^th September 1811, Friday                                                                 (page 113)

Very comfortable beds. Directly after breakfast we crossed the ferry of Loch Etive. From the house were very fine views of the mountains of Mull which are grander than any I have seen. At a small distance, built upon a promontory stand the ruins of Dunstaffrage of which the remains are great. This was a large castle than any I have seen. They are usually only single square towers. This was a large building, more like the Welsh Castles. We did not go to examine it. It is curious that this and Besegonium should so much exceed in importance any other ruins in this part of Scotland. In Loch Etiva when the tide retires as we understood from the ferry man, is a fine fall that is very much visited. Travelers would find it well worth while to arrange their plans so as to visit but this we could not do. Our road lay but a few miles from Oban but from what we could gather it would not repay the trouble of visiting. We passed Bun Awe which lies on the shores of Loch (blank) and is a considerable village. There is much more wood and brush wood upon the road than we usually met with but the mountains and general scenery diminishes greatly in interest and grandeur. The inhabitants on this side differ in the form of their caps and in the building of their cottages from those on the eastern and interior part of Scotland. The cottages are roofed with ropes here. Their general appearance is entirely different I should be apt to suspect this difference is not merely accidental and that the maritime inhabitants of the western coast might claim different ancestors. In this opinion the peculiarity of their remains enervages(?) me. We came to the shores of Loch Awe. These were pretty well cultivated and inhabited. Loch Awe here is very narrow and the scenery not striking, at least after what we had passed. We crossed the ferry to Port Sonachan with the horses. I thought this very disagreeable. At this house we got bread and cheese. I thought it uncomfortable. One of the horses lost its shoe in the bustle of getting into the boat. We had to go on to the west village before this loss could be repaired. We therefore walked, the road lay through a copse where were growing abundance of ripe nuts. There was also a large plantation of firs and larches, where was a waterfall but the day being exceedingly hot I was so tired that I did not go to see it. Then the country became barren. From a hill at the foot of which lies this village whose names I have forgot. There is a fine view upon the lake. I believe Lock Awe further up is reckoned the most beautiful in the country, from its variety of islands on which are ruins. The country lost its barren appearance as we approached Inverary and became well cultivated with fir(?) trees and plantations and much more general comfort. A short way from the town we went to see a cascade in the Duke’s grounds, very well worth seeing. It was dark when we came to the inn which is here good and comfortable.

7^th September 1811, Saturday                                                             (page 115)

Inverary stands on the shores of Loch Tyne and is no inconsiderable place. We went to see the grounds and castle, this last built in imitation of the Gothic but with strange inconsistency, has got a glass door. At the Grand entrance, about which there is nothing at all striking as you come down the avenue, the rooms were in the french taste and not remarkable. The grounds are finely wooded, the trees noble and well placed, and the view of the Loch and mountains give it peculiar beauty. We coasted the lake to its head. About a mile from Inverary there is a very fine view back again upon the town. We went by a very old house belonging to, who I forget, but to some of the Campbells. It was large with many gable ends. The country all here is very barren. We stopped at Cairndow to rest the horses and found an exceedingly comfortable inn. Then we plunged among the mountains and came down Rest and be Thankful, into Gleneroe. A mountain seems entirely to block up the entrance into this glen down which a road was cut by the soldiery by means of its windings the descent is rendered practicable. At the top is a seat and stone on which is the well known inscription. As Eliza and I walked down we could not help thinking upon the absolute impossibility of subduing a nation in these fastnesses who had resolution to defend them. These mountains have no boldness, they are large without being magnificent. To those who have seen Glencoe this is nothing. We came down to Loch Long and then coasting it a short way crossed at the head and came to Aroguhar (Arrochar?). Here is a good inn and a tolerable village. About sunset we walked down the lake, the opposite mountains with the red light behind them were very grand. The road we took romantic in the extreme. I shall remember always with pleasure the effect of some girls and cattle that we met upon this beautiful walk.

File PB110135

Letter Anne Caldwell to Mary Caldwell 1811

Miss M. Caldwell

Linley Wood

Lawton

Cheshire

England

7^th September 1811

Inverary, Friday Evening.

It did indeed make us very happy, my dearest Mary, to receive such an agreeable account of your health on our arrival here. I hope, my sweet girl will continue to improve and be happy herself in the happiness she bestows and the affection she excites in all who know her. In spite of all the beauties and pleasures of this town my thoughts will wander home and picture that dear parlour and those dear friends that sit round you and every fine sunshine and sun set reminds me of the days I sat with my dear Mary there. It is a great pleasure to me to consider that we are having a most agreeable [day, way?] for you in this country and that we have laid the foundations of a most agreeable acquaintance at [Eden, John?] which I think when you come as my Aunt will probably stay longer you may improve and enjoy. Stamford wrote you from Tyndom[?] where we were in the heart of moors and mountains and with a way before us that made me tremble for the 3 [fairys?] stick in my throat and an unknown coach in a wild country with a driver who know not a step of the way seemed a little frightful. You will find the way we went in the map. Loch Leven to which place our course was bent lies between Inverness and Argyleshire. The Ballachulish is the point where Lock Leven joins Lock Linne [Linnhe]. The road lies through Glencoe. It is a terrible and awful to the highest degree, a deep Glen between enormous crags into which you plunge by a steep winding descent, worn and torn by the violence of the torrents which pour on all sides from the mountains. The eagles scream which is particularly wild was the only sound we heard. This was very fine, it was what we came for and I expected nothing further as we heard no good report of the beauty of the rest of the ride, but the saltwater lakes of Leven and Linne exceed everything by far that I have seen in Scotland. Imagine mountain behind mountain of every form and shape blending with the finest sky on the most beautiful morning and at their feet lakes so wide that the opposite banks are in the distance with fine rocks broken in every direction and sloops and vessels sailing across them. The sea with all the variety of inland views, though I know you hate descriptions I cannot help describing for I have without affectation seen quite enchanted. The hills of Morvern were opposite to us where Ossians Malvina lived. They are very fine. We passed all round that part of Argyle Shire that lies between Lock Linne and Loch Etive and crossed a Ferry a mile broad which was more necessary than agreeable. Here we met with a very agreeable boy waiting to be ferried over. Some great man’s son who lives near Fort William. The country Inns and people in Perthshire are not in any degree so much removed from Polish as the people in this corner. At the inn at Kings House they [shewed, handed?] us [wax seal in way] – a bed room to take breakfast at Connel[?] Ferry they had no bread and at [Ivynchon, Tynchon?] we slept in cupboards in the dining room. At [Zeem?] near Lock Tay, a most amicable little man in a kilt waited upon us at one of the Ferrys. We were rowed by two men who knew nothing “I know nothing” is I don’t speak English. The chambermaid &c find about often without shoes and never with stockings. It was to be sure a most lucky thing that Stamford came with us. Without him we should never have ventured upon this Highland expedition. I should say ‘Glencoe [Glenive?] Expedition’. He is very kind and very useful. As for Eliza, I really owe to her almost half the pleasure and all the comfort of my journey. She has been so good natured, good humoured and good tempered. This tour will certainly cure me of my general antipathy to journeys. Inverary looks charming this morning and invites us into the D-‘s grounds so for fear of want of time I will put in the business part of my letter. First. My Aunt thinks that Mrs Bridget had better set out next Friday and proceed to Halifax according to the directions she gave her. She must there get directions about [gt?] coaches and proceed to Gisborough as well as she can. And the best conveyance to Bed can perhaps a reserve chaise. If the King dies she must bring my Aunts mourning and ours. If you please if he live would you tell M.Reece to send me my plain muslin frock and my japan gown and two bathing gowns. I am much amused with the idea of MEC setting off solo for Betley. This is being very sister like. I scrawled away the greater part of this last night and am shocked to think what a puzzle you will have to read it. Now I must go to breakfast. Tell Emma the 9^th of August was spent at Lock Earn head, the wildest place in the world with nothing but bare footed Scotch girls worn brown and withered by hard work to be seen. Mr McDougal gave us an introduction to Dr Stewart at Lass. He is a great botanist and though we must be [friendly?] indeed I think we have quite taken the botanical character and like cats tumble upon our feet wherever we fall. I observe a great change in the dress and appearance of the people on the western coast. Very inferior to the natives of the eastern. Near Connel ferry we saw the ruins of Beregonium which are stupendous. Mountains that appear formed by the labour of hands and remains of forts. It is situated on the delightful bay and is, I believe, so ancient that no record remains of those who built it. It was the ancient residence of the Scottish and pictish Kings and whatever may be seen of this rude immensity of the remains they sufficiently prove that it was no wandering tribe of savages that constructed them. There are the remains of a street as regularly paved as any in London. The tradition is that it was destroyed by fire from heaven. And the remains of what are called the [petrified?] forts are masses that appear fused by heat. There are many druidical remains all over the country and to an antiquarian it must afford ceaseless amusement. What a change there is in it since Ossians heroes lived here. Now is all solitary and deserted miles without the hail of human footsteps and the largest habitations made heaps of stones joined without mortar and thatched or covered with clods. I must now, my beloved girl, give over for we are going to walk. Pray tell Emma and Louis[?] that [I] ought to have written to them but I do so like writing to you that I could not resist the temptation. I am sure they will excuse the preference. The next letters may be directed to Newcastle. Farewell again my dearest girl. You cannot give too much love for us to the dear Linley Wood [resides?] never absent from our thoughts and think of me as your most truly and warmly attentive [friend?] and sister. AC.

been. Louisa has a little letter from Emily [Buxton] this morning. Calm as it was it was sure to be but one can understand how it is with her, poor dear Emily. She seems to take very great comfort in Sybil. Who is certainly no ordinary woman. The Admiral’s visit was very pleasant. One saw so much more of him when we were alone with the dear Croftons. And now dearest R, I am so tired and good for nothing. I can work no more. This undeserving letter is a poor return for your dear charming one. I marvel at your love and good [luck?] in finding time to write such long and really beautiful and charming ones. All as usual out, Louisa [dressing?] Dear G in the corn field, Such crops. With dearest love to Amy and kindest regards to M. Bergeron and Annie, my Posy’s tenderly loving Mother.

Diary of Anne Marsh-Caldwell on holiday in Scotland

8^th September 1811, Sunday                                                               (page 117)

We left Arroguhar early, that we might reach Luss to breakfast, where we came down to Loch Lomond. The lake is narrow, the opposite mountains very fine. We passed Tarbet and were beginning to enjoy some delightful views when a thick fog obscured every object and we got to Luss no more edified than if we had travelled through London in November. At Luss the inn was full of company. We got but uncomfortably situated in a small parlour but cared for nothing provided the fog would clear. About twelve o’clock we got down to the shores of the Lake and saw an unrivalled prospect, the finest sun was sparkling upon the expanse of water and distant mountains. The town was all gay with people dressed for Church. Everything seemed smiling and happy. We went to Kirk and heard Dr Stewart. The place was crowded to overflowing. The service was monotonous and ill delivered. I was struck with the singularity of the preacher taking out his watch at the conclusion of the sermon and saying as the time pressed he would put the rest off. After the English service there is always one in Latin Gaelic. To this I saw a good many old men and women in the venerable ancient costume coming. After service we went to a slate quarry about half a mile below Luss to which the Tytler directed us. I clambered up to a great height upon the hill behind it and there saw this magnificent water with all its crowd of islands spread in a sheet before me. I was so high above all that I saw the islands as from a birds eye view and the shores all round. The infinite variety of their green forms, the tints of the mountains, the clear blue of the lake and sky, altogether it was the most delightful sight I ever in my life beheld. We had a letter to Dr Stewart and went down to deliver it. They were coming out of Kirk, he and his wife, a sweet lovely woman and a very pretty daughter. They received us almost with open arms and every kind offer and every kind expression were lavished upon us and they pressed us to take dinner, beds, supper, tea, everything. We agreed to drink tea there. I never saw such hospitable kindness of manner, such grace, ease and a nature united as in Mrs Stewart. Dr Stewart got a boatman for us to go on the water and apologised for not going with us as it was Sunday. We left them to take our row. For some way the water was not deep. The bottom mossy and as the water was perfectly transparent if was the prettiest deception in the world for it seemed a ground of sparkling emerald and gold. The most beautiful dwelling of the water, my nymphs, as the water deepened we last this gay scene below. We first went to a large island called Inch Tavannach. Here is a very high point entirely wooded, from the summit of which we saw a most beautiful view though inferior to that from the slate quarry. We came down and went through a creek between this and another island and returned most sincerely sorry that we could not stay longer. Between five and six HEC and I went a good way up a mountain at the back of the Tarbet end of Luss. The sun was set behind the hills and the reflection of the various lights upon the lake, mountains, islands was exquisite. We went directly after dinner to Dr Stewarts and spent a delightful evening. It gave me a very high idea of the comforts and virtues of a Highland pastors household. Plenty and simplicity in the (‘household’ crossed out) ménage and nature and refinement in the manners. I should think this the happiest life in the world and the best fitted to virtue. Mrs Stewart was lively and very intelligent and told us several entertaining stories admirably well. There is an island in the Lake in which they put people who are rather crazy or too fond of whiskey, for this she described some as having a passion which approached to madness and can be equaled by nothing but by that of the turks for opium. In this place all retired as it is, Dr Stewart has an opportunity of seeing many eminent people who come to stay a day or two on the shores of the Lake, among others he mentioned Burke, who formed an acquaintance with a humorous whiskey drinker of the name of Humphrey Colquhoun. Dr Stewart described his conversation with this man as infinitely entertaining. As we went home Dr Stewart shewed us the Comet which is excessively beautiful now. Loch Lomond is 30 miles long and sixteen (nine) wide in the broadest part, the largest island is a mile long, some of the islands contain wild goats and most red deer which swim from island to island. In some swampy places there are large serpents which are sometimes seen swimming across the creeks. The boatman’s account of them was terrible, but I think exaggerated. Ben Lomond is the largest mountain on the shores of Loch Lomond, from its top Ireland and the Isle of Man are seen. It is not difficult of access and on it are many rare plants.

9^th September 1811, Monday                                                              (page 121)

It is the best plan to row to the outlet of the Lake Leven water and thence to Dumbarton, but this we could not do. The ride by the shores of Lake is very beautiful, go through Linton, a neat and populous village. Here is Smollets monument, a pillar. All the country here is very well cultivated and peopled. Dunbarton is very striking. One large insulated rock with fortifications at the top stands in the middle of a plain. I ought to say two rocks for there is a chasm divides down for some way. The Clyde flows at its feet here, very broad and salt water I believe, at least it has considerable tides. Unfortunately the water was out when we were there. The town is large and prosperous. We immediately went to the Castle. Here are barracks for invalids. We were taken up a narrow stair case cut in a passage between the rocks scarce wide enough for two to go abreast. This carries up to nearly the top of the lowest point. The highest is not now visited. Sheep feed there and strangers frighten them down the precipice. From this lowest point however, the view is glorious. The broad Clyde and hills behind it. Greenoch, Port Glasgow, Foseneath. On another side the steep precipices of Dun Glass and to the North last the view back to Loch Lomond. Here you are shown the place where Captain Crawford entered, the rock he must have climbed is very steep and prodigiously high. In the Guard room when we came down they shewed us Wallace’s sword of an amazing size and to be used with two hands and the skin of a Pearch(?) who lived in the well or many years without any known nourishment.

The Soldiers Dream (different handwriting?)

Our Bugles sung truce for the for the night had been cloud,

And the centinal Stars set their watch in the sky,

when thousands had sunk to the ground overpowered,

The weary to sleep and the wounded to die.

We reposing that night on my Pallet of Straw

By the Wolf sharing faggot that guarded the stair(?)

At the dead of the night a sweet vision I saw,

And thrice e’er the cock crew I dreamt it again.

We thought from the Battles fields dreadful array,

Far far I had roamed on a desolate track

Till Autumn and sunshine arose on the way,

To the house of my Father’s that welcomed me back.

I flew to the pleasant fields travers’d so oft

In life’ morning march when my bosom was young,

I heard my own mountain goats bleating aloft

And I knew the sweet strain that the corn reaper sung

Then pledged we the wine cup and fondly I swore,

From my home and my weeping friends never to part,

My little ones kissed me a thousand times o’er,

And my wife sobbed aloud in her fullness of heart.

Stay stay, with us rest, thou art weary I worn,

And fain was their war broken soldier to stay

But sorrow returned with the drawing of more

And the voice of my dreaming ear melted away.

The ride to Glasgow is very much the same as the approach to any of our large manufacturing towns in England. There is nothing of the dreary grandeur of Edinburgh and seated among her magnificent Barons neat country houses, gardens, plantations, hedges and trees all this is the sign of plenty, care and improvement and as such I suppose we must be glad to see it, though beauty and nature must vanish for ever. Glasgow is first as like the new town of Edinburgh as a house of two stories on a flat is like a house of three on a hill. The new houses are of stone, very regular.

10^th September 1811, Tuesday                                                            (page 125)

Walked about Glasgow, went to the old part of the town up the Irongate. The Tolbooth is a fine building, opposite stands a fine statue of King William on horse back. We walked about the town to the green. I don’t like walking about town, it was hot and dirty work (rock?) here and I could not look about me. We went to the High Church, it is a large pile, not remarkable for beauty, now divided into two places for service. The church yard is almost walled with ancient tombs and monuments. Went to the College, the most gloomy abode in the nastiest street I ever beheld. Black and melancholy and fit only to be inhabited by monks of La Trappe. We came here to see the Hunters museum. This is not opened till midday. They locked Stamford and me I into what they call the College Gardens to wait. These gardens are a large grass slope bounded at the bottom by a stream which seems to have washed Glasgow and is blacker than Styx. Down to this are walks shaded by dismal birch withering in smoke and one side a black wall that might confine hat works, such are the College Gardens. The Hunter’s Museum contained very little to interest me. Birds, fishes and beasts, of course the fossils must be very valuable. There are some pictures. I was most pleased with the two beautiful illuminated manuscripts, Hebrew and John, the writing of these things is wonderful and the colours of the illuminations, particularly the blue finer than any one meets with now. I wonder whether the art is lost. What a labour these must have cost? After dinner we went on to Hamilton, the country is flat but well cultivated and wooded.

11^th September 1811, Wednesday                                                      (page 127)

Went to see Hamilton Palace. The apartments are very splendid but one great house so nearly resembles another that I cannot keep a distinct remembrance in my head. The principal rooms are covered with pictures. I was struck with the beauty of many but I cannot now recollect any one but Daniel in the Lions Den by Rubens. The animals are reckoned very fine. Of this I did not attempt to judge. I thought them admirably well grouped and thrown round the figure of Daniel who attracted my attention by far the most. He is sitting on a stone with his hands clasped in an attitude of shuddering natural horror with great acquired firmness. His face is cast up with more of enthusiasm than resignation and little of hope. I have never seen anything pictured that so much interested and affected me. It is worth while to go a long way to see this striking picture. Hamilton is now occupied by the Marquis of Donglass. The road from Hamilton to Lanark is reckoned very fine, I cannot say it struck me much. A short way from Lanark we stopped to see Stone Byres, the first fall of the Clyde which runs by the road almost all the way. This is a fine fall but we are now going down the degrees of sublimity and perhaps are hardly inclined to do justice. After this a very high hill is ascended. Before reaching Lanark which plunges into a deep valley and is curious looking. Larnark is a considerable place, every one knows that just below on the banks of the Clyde are large cotton works. We walked through Lady (blank) grounds to CoreLian. The mass of water and breadth of rocks make this a very fine Fall, and the banks of the river are cloathed with wood, but it is neither so wild, so foaming or so turbulent as the roaming Tummel or dashing Mooness. On the opposite rock stands the castle of Iona. My Aunt and Eliza went to Bonnington (Bonniton?) Fall. In the meantime I walked with Stamford to Braxfield to call upon Miss Dales. After this we went to Cartland Craigs. This is a very deep rocky Glen which is seen from the top of tremendous height. As in all the others, a stream runs down it. This is very well worth seeing but when I think of how weary, hungry and sick I was in this walk and impatient to get home to rest and dinner I determine never to be surprised at the negligence of travelers. It only astonishes me that so much is seen by the fashionable and described by the indolent.

12^th September 1811, Thursday                                                          (page 129)

We here parted with Stamford, he to return home, we to go to the sea. Early in the morning we set off for Biggar. The country is in general barren and poorly cultivated though with some good exceptions. To Peebles, the same, just before entering the town however, descending a hill there is a very pretty view of the Tweed and this beautiful town and church and castle. All the way from Peebles to Melrose is wild with some fine views of the Tweed. We passed Gallashiels again, and found as we retraced our steps every object sensibly diminished in size and beauty. Came to Melrose in the evening and immediately went to the Abbey. After the miracles of Nature even those of art appear worthless and insignificant. This sublime ruin was no longer to me what I had thought it on entering Scotland. As we came along the road this evening we over took a party of men dressed in black carrying a coffin in the middle of them. They were burying it in the Abbey yard as we came in. No obsequies. Not a word of regret. Not a prayer of recommendation to the traveler beginning his awful journey. As a dog without sign of religion or friendship the Scotch Presbyterian is buried. (x) ( I have heard since that the Service is performed in the dead man’s room) The man who shews the ruin is very ingenious and has taught himself to sketch. He took us through a small house into his bed room where his drawing things were. Here were sketches executed by himself, some he valued at a guinea. I thought this a fair specimen of the character of the Nation.

13^th September 1811, Friday                                                               (page 130)

Before it was quite light we left Melrose for Kelso. The morning was misty, otherwise the ride would have been pleasant. We passed Dryburgh Abbey whose ruins are, I believe, superior to Melrose. It lies on the opposite side the road. Owing to the restiveness of the horses we got out and went into a cottage. It was not so tidy as many English ones but not distinguished for dirt and the rooms large and light.

Kelso is most beautiful, on the banks of the Tweed and (Tevit?) which join just before reaching the town. Few things can be more beautiful than their high and woody banks. From the bridge and from the public library the views are very fine. Here too are the ruins of an old Cathedral, round arches, very ancient and I thought the architecture striking. We had only a slight view, being in haste. The ride from Kelso to Coldstream chiefly along the banks of the Tweed, though neither grand or wild, is beautiful. Coldstream is the border town. The carriage breaking, while it was mended Eliza and I went to the fine bridge across the Tweed to take our farewell of Scotland. It was a beautiful day and this delightful spot left an agreeable impression of the land we were leaving. I felt a good deal of regret that my pleasant expedition was over, yet I welcomed my own country with all my heart. The carriage joined us, we drove over the bridge and thus entered England and completed our tour.

Since I set out I have seen much. It has been chiefly of places on which little reflection can be made yet it has considerably enlarged my ideas and given me just notions of many things on which I was before much deceived. The general aspect of mountains and mountain scenery in general and of the lakes disappointed me. I had formed my ideas of the first from Mrs Hatcliffe who descriptions are anything but natural. Her magnificent mountains on which I fancied whole tracks of country stretched out in forests, plains, cliffs and peaks give a very false idea of a mountainous district which appears to the eye like wide plains broken into vast heaps of deep ravines but not like the prodigious contrived ascent I fancied. The lakes disappointed like the mountains chiefly from a want of magnificence. In the trees and precipices. It is of use to correct these imaginary views of things. Till this is done Nature is beautiful in vain. What I chiefly admire in Scotland particularly the Highlands, is the perfection of wildness; the eye is never struck on the fancy recalled by the vulgarity of common life; here all is nature pure and uncultivated and among the people all wild and uncommon; but this is fast wearing away and those who wish to see Scotland in its nature beauty must make haste before policy has converted the sons of the Gael into English labourers and manufacturers.

I do not recollect the stages to Newcastle. The country through which we travelled is barren and mountainous without trees or enclosures. We came to Newcastle about eleven at night.

14^th September 1811, Saturday                                              (page 134)

At Mr Turners, we went to see the shot tower and lead works and coal works.

15^th September 1811, Sunday

To Chapel, called at Mr Nanlins.

16^th September 1811, Monday

To a Laneaters school established here containing 500. To the Glass works. Called at Mrs Griffiths.

17^th September 1811, Tuesday

After three most agreeable days left Newcastle, to Sunderland. The bridge, the Iron work light and beautiful, but the general effect much spoiled by the heavy stone work to which it is fastened to Castle Eden. Down Eden Deane, a deep magnificent glen, leading to the sea. It is indeed well worth visiting. We only walked down a little way. To Hartlepool, the works here are famous. (pencil sketch of a bridge or arch?)  but the tide being up and we in haste we saw little of beauty. To Stockton, a very pretty town upon the Tees, the place is considerable, the principal street one continual row of good houses. To Redcarthe, first part pretty, the last we performed in the dark. Here we established ourselves for a short time.

30^th September 1811

Drank tea with a party at Mrs Yorkes.

1^st October 1811

Set out home. Carriage broke down. Came back, found H. Turner, dined, set out again. Through Stockton to Tontine Inn.

2^nd October 1811

To Thirsk. Carrige broke down again. Fine country. To Borough bridge, in a field near saw the devils arrows about 28ft high. Large black stones rudely cut like arrows at the top. To Knaresborough, the chopping well enchanting. Situation old castle which we did not see. Through Harrogate to Harewood, where we slept.

3^rd October 1811

Saw Harewood. Through Leeds and Bradford to Stockley Green, very curious country, broken into deep plunging valleys. Dr Thomson dined with us.

4^th October 1811

Walked  to Halifax to Mr Edwardes. Dr Thomson dined.

5^th October 1811

Came home by Manchester. Found Jos and Charlotte Wedgwood at Linley Wood.

6^th October 1811

Jos. Wedgwood left.

7^th October 1811

Mr Rawson came to shoot. Charlotte and M Darwin went.

8^th October 1811

Mr Rawson went.

9^th October 1811

JSC to Dorfold. Mama and Papa to Stoney Field.

10^th October 1811

They returned.

12^th October 1811

Stamford returned.

14^th October 1811

Mr and Mrs Rawson, E. Bent, E. Rawson dined here.

15^th October 1811

Miss Fletchers, Mr Griffin came.

16^th October 1811

Mr Griffin went. Mr H Tomkinson came.

17^th October 1811

Miss Fletchers went. Mr Butt came.

18^th October 1811

Mr Butt went, my Aunt and Emma to Bostock.

21^st October 1811

They returned bringing Miss France and Miss Noble. Mr(s?) Blunt and John dined here.

23^rd October 1811

Eliza went to Southend with L.W. to see Miss and Mrs John Wedgwood. Miss Potts came. JSC went.

26^th October 1811

Dr Holland came.

27^th October 1811

Dr Holland went on to Maer. Mrs, Miss and Caroline Crompton came.

28^th October 1811

My Aunt took Miss Noble to Knutsford and Ellen, Elizabeth and Tom France came to fetch home Sarah. Dr H returned.

30^th October 1811

He went. Mrs Crompton called at Basford.

Letter to James Caldwell

James Caldwell Esq.

Linley Wood

Near Lawton,

Cheshire.

1^st Nov 1811

 Leek, 1^st Nov 1811

Dear Sir,

I drew out the case for Mr Shadwells Opinion (as concluded when I last had the pleasure of seeing you) and forwarded it to my Law Agent to lay before him. I conclude he was at the time out of Town, for some time after my Agent wrote me as follows.

“I don’t see how any Counsel can give a decided Opinion on the case, it will depend on the Judges to whom a case will be referred and the examination of the parties before them here (I presume) if Parliament and the Petition will let the application go so far, but if you mean to get Mr Shadwell’s Opinion soon (who has almost done with business) I think you have sent it to a wrong man. I should despair of getting it in 6 months. Please to say if I should lay it before him or who also could too.”

The business was 4 sheets and I returned for [Ans – answer?] 2 years for a few [wed?]. I thought be sufficient and as Mr Shadwell had been recommended by Mr [Whyte?] I wished to try him and to sound the [title, letter?]

My Agent writes again though both would take his 1100 but give no encouragement when the case might be expected to be answered. I have always understood Mr Shadwell keeps things [always while?]. He has a nephew who is getting into business and who probably advises with his Uncle, but he can’t himself have experience for our purpose. Shall I try him or Mr Allerton who you know is an able and old practical Conveyancer, as I wish to leave the business as clearly understood as may be without delay. I have not wrote my Agent again but rather wish your directions. Waiting your reply.

I am dear Sir,

Your very obedient Servant

Jones

Diary of Anne Marsh-Caldwell

5^th November 1811, Tuesday

Dr Crompton came. Mrs Bent and Eliza called.

9^th November 1811

Dr Crompton came to Bostock.

10^th November 1811

He returned.

11^th November 1811

He went.

14^th November 1811

Miss Potts went. H. Crompton came.

15^th November 1811

The Cromptons went. My Aunt L and MEC to Parkfield.

21^st November 1811

Mary and I went to the fashions. HS, L and ME came here.

22^nd November 1811

Mrs Lawton called.

26^th November 1811

My Uncle came.

27^th November 1811

Mr Spode dined here.

28^th November 1811

My Uncle went. We went to the Assembly, Lousia’s debut. Brought Eliza home from South end. Mrs Lawton went with us. Papa and Mr L Bent to Liverpool.

1^st December 1811, Sunday

William Bent dined here.

4^th December 1811

Mr and Mrs Jos Wedgwood, Elizabeth and Mr Carr dined here.

5^th December 1811

Mr Carr and Mr L went.

6^th December 1811

Mrs L and Elizabeth went.

8^th December 1811                                          (page 138)

Mr Bent and Papa came home.

17^th December 1811

I went with Louisa and Emma to Burslem.

21^st December 1811

We returned home.

23^rd December 1811

Mama, Papa and Mary to Nantwich.

25^th December 1811

Xmas day, W Bent called on us.

26^th December 1811

They returned from Nantwich.

27^th December 1811

The Assembly, my Aunt and Mr Jos Wedgwood stewards.

29^th December 1811

William Bent dined here.

30^th December 1811

I went with Mama and Papa to Parkfield. Mr Rickets, Mrs and Mrs Robinson, Major and Mrs Orange dined there.

31^st December 1811

Mr Butt dined with us. In the yd evening we returned and found Miss (Grey, Georgina?) Leth at Linley Wood.